• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2017

The aim of this study was to analyze the features of bodice patterns modeled using a dress form that represents Korean female fashion models' body features. A controlled experiment was carried out using an existing dress form that has been frequently used in South Korea. The purpose of the study was to suggest notable findings derived from understanding the development of bodice patterns for Korean female fashion models. The comparison of features of bodice patterns from the developed and existing dress forms was carried out with consideration of the upper body features of the developed dress form, such as body angles and body cross-sectional shapes. The following results were derived from the investigations. (1) The angles of the upper and lower breast cups of the developed dress form differed to those of the existing dress form, showing a 5.0cm smaller front shoulder dart and a 3.5 larger ㎝ ㎝ front waist dart within the bodice patterns. (2) The body angle features of the developed dress form included a straighter neck and shoulder blade and more concave center back than the existing dress form, with a 2.0 reduced back neck height and a 4.8 larger back waist dart for ㎝ ㎝ the bodice back panel. The more realistic body angles of the developed dress form anticipate the improvement of garment pattern-making. (3) The altered shoulder angles resulted in an increased size of the back shoulder dart and a decreased size of the front shoulder height within the bodice patterns. (4) The increased rate of curvature of cross-sectional shapes on the bust and waist circumferences of the developed dress form resulted in an increase in the sizes of the front and back waist darts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.763-780
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.379-386
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.