• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.776-783
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the reasonable gathering conditions as consider of effect of gathering and variation of silhouette made by gathering conditions. The experimental design consists of four factorial design: (1) three kinds of different weight and different thickness fabrics (2) three kinds of different stitch densities (3) five kinds of different ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of different angles. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. Data analysis utilize SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the aspect of fabrics, it is shown the visual propriety that it is as thin as the small stitch, and as thick as the big stitch. 2. As stitch densities, it shows the different stabilized nodes. 3. In the aspect of ratio of gathers, it is shown the visual propriety that a few was small stitches, which help formations of nodes, and a lot were big stitches, which help increased the effect of gather. 4. In the aspect of angle of bias, the drape appearance was excellent as a sample of cutting by 0 angle(0$^{\circ}$) of bias. The big stitches that help formations of stabilized nodes, and a case of cutting by 45 angle(45$^{\circ}$) of bias was small stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.783-791
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• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.715-723
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• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.8-14
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• 1994

A new flame retardant diphenyl butylamidophosphate (DPBAP) for PET fabric was synthesized and its flame retardancy was examined. The results have shown that PET fabrics treated by DPBAP(with DPBAP and on 4-10 %) show excellent flame retardancy. Since the DPBAP treated PET fabric show essentially no change in the drape stiffness and the tensile strength, it is believed that DPBAP is chemically stable in PET fabric. In addition to this, the washing fastness of DPBAP on PET fabric tested by the 5 times of water washing method also appeared to be excellent. Judging from the fact that DPBAP was synthesized from relatively cheap material as well as the above cited DPBAP properties as a good flame retardant, the potential of DPBAP to be developed as a commercial flame retardant for PET fabric seems to be high.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권9_10호
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• pp.1282-1291
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• 2004

Kenaf was cultivated and harvested in large quantity in Cheju Island and Chinju, Kyungsangnamdo. It was chemically rotted with 3% NaOH for 60 minutes at 100$^{\circ}C$, neutralized using 1% acetic acid, washed and dried, and obtained 40kg of dry kenaf fiber. Kenaf 15/rayon 85, flax 15/rayon 85, and rayon 100% yam was spun and the physical characteristics were measured. Plain weave and twill weave fabrics were made using each of the above yarns as the filling yam. Cotton 100% yam was used as the warp yam in all fabrics. Kenaf/rayon blend yarns were higher in tenacity and elongation, lower in yam uniformity, higher in the number of nep than the flax/rayon blended yams. Kenaf/rayon blend fabric had higher tenacity and elongation compared to the flax/rayon blend fabric Kenaf/rayon blend fabric was most stiff in both plain weave and twill weave fabrics whereas drape characteristics was dependent upon the fabric structure of the kenaf/rayon blend and flax/rayon blend. There were little differences between the kenaf/rayon blend fabric and the flax/rayon blend fabric in the Kawabata physical measurements and the PHVs. The only drawback of kenaf fiber was it's surface roughness and it is expected that it can be improved by enzyme retting and mechanical bundle separation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권7호
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• pp.882-891
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to improve dye effect and method in order to facilitate the use of persimmon juice dyeing. Silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous to Jeju. The color of dyed silk fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than that by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types 10, 25, 50 and 100%. The silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up and were repeatedly dyed two times and three times with 100% concentration. The higher the concentration, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened to 1-8hrs. Color values which reguired 30-50 hrs. in sunlight irradiation. were obtained in 3-5 hrs. with UV irradiation. Tensile strengths of silk fabrics in UV irradiation decreased but not decreased in sunlight irradiation. Elongations of silk fabrics in sunlight irradiation increased but decreased in W irradiation. Drape stiffness increased up to three times.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new orientalism fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the art of the Tang dynasty, China. Tang dynasty has high culture, economy, polity and art. Also the character of Tang's culture is very international. Therefore that point is coincide with fusion culture in the early 2000's. As a method of accomplishing this research, the documents and fashion magazines related to the art and fashion were examined. Through analyzing the art in the Tang's related to fusion culture, reach a conclusion that the modern fashion has four characters. 1. The cause of high culture and economy, the trend of fashion was decorative 2. The cause of realism, the trend of fashion were modern and simple. 3. The cause of rhythmical line, the trend of fashion had natural drape. 4. The cause of globalism, the trend of fashion mixed east with west This research keep going for showing new orientalism and coinciding with 21th century's trend.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.51-61
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• 1998

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of polyester fabrics changed by alkaline hydrolysis. This study analyzed the relations between the change of mechanical property and the hand value according to the weight loss of polyester fabrics. The results are as follows; Objective hand by KES-FB system, revealed that for tensile properties, as the weight loss increased, WT, RT increased and LT decreased. For bending properties, as the weight loss increased, B and 2HB showed smaller values. For shear properties, as the weight loss increased, G, 2HG and 2HG5 decreased. For surface properties, as the weight loss increased, MIU increased, but MMD and SMD did not show any trend. For compression properties, LC, WC and RC did not show significant differences according to the degree of weight loss. In case of hand value, Koshi(stiffness), Hari(anti-drape stiffness), Kisimi(scrooping feeling) and Shinayakasa(flexibility with soft feeling) showed a meaningful results depending on the degree of weight loss. However, Shari(crispness) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) did not show meaningful result. Koshi, Hari and Shinayakasa are high correlation with tensile property, bendibg property shear properties, thickness and weight. Kisimi is high correlation with tensile property, bending property, thickness and weight. Shari, Fukurami and THV did not show any meaningful difference whth any mechanical properties.

• 제어로봇시스템학회논문지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.615-618
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• 2016

This paper proposes a method to estimate vertical interaction force to the end of the surgical instrument by measuring reaction force at the part supporting the trocar. Relation between the force to the trocar and the interaction force is derived using the beam theory. The vertical interaction force is modeled as a function of the reaction force to the trocar and the distance between the drape plate and the trocar. Experimental results show that error is induced by the asymmetric shape of the trocar tip because contact position between the instrument and the trocar tip is changed depending on the direction of the interaction force. The theoretical relation, therefore, is compensated and reduced. Average $L_2$ relative error of the estimated force in the x-direction and the y-direction is 5.81 % and 5.99 %, respectively.