• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

A Study on the Plasticity of the Gather Represented in Haute Couture The Gather is the plastic technique to represent a sense of voluminosity by pleating the plane of costume and manifests the emotional effects , such as both functional aspects and the construction of form, optical illusion effect, textural feelings from materials, tactile transformations, etc. So it is used as the tool to represent the plastistic beauty of costume. The plasticity of the ancient gather was the drape arising according to the curve of the body, but the type of gather recently found on the haute couture does not only retain the activity and functionalism on which the technical element and the ornamental aspect are mixed with other techiques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.130-146
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• 2007

Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1516-1523
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• 2004

The purpose of this study were to analyze the effect of weft knit structural characteristics on the subjective texture and sensibility. For this, the material was knitted into 8 kinds of weft plain knit fabrics with four kinds of fiber components such as wool, acryl, rayon, and nylon, 3 steps of densities and 3 steps of twist numbers to ply two yarns. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and multidimensional scaling. From factor analysis, subjective textures were categorized as 'bulk/resilience', 'surface/density' and 'soft/drape', and subjective sensibilities were categorized as 'natural/comfortable', 'feminine/elegance' and 'stable/neat' Among the knit structural characteristics, the component of fibers and the density of fabrics were the important factors to give variations in texture and sensibility : In comparison with wool knit of medium density, the knit fabrics of other components and different densities each showed a unique texture and sensibility. But twist number to ply two yams had a few influence on subjective properties. As a result of MDS analysis, the texture and sensibility of plain weft knit fabrics was classified as 'thin-full', 'hard-soft', 'young-old' and 'warm-cool'.

• Journal of Korean Academy of Fundamentals of Nursing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.173-180
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• 2007

Purpose: The present study was done to examine the effect of music therapy on anxiety and pain in patients for whom a ureteral stent was inserted under local anesthesia. Method: The participants in this study were 22 patients who received a ureteral stent at the Day Surgery Center of C University Hospital during the period from May to October in 2006. The patients were divided into a control group (n=11) and an experimental group (n=11). For the experimental group, music was played according to their musical preference using headphones. The music was provided from the point when the patient took the posture for the operation and was covered with a sterilized drape to the point when the cystoscope was removed after finishing the operation. The control group was only provided with ordinary nursing services. Results: The results show that the provision of music therapy to these patients is effective in reducing the patients' salivary cortisol and Vas-anxiety score and stabilizing their systolic blood pressure. Conclusion: We conclude that music therapy can be actively used as a nursing intervention for reducing anxiety in patients who receive operations under local anesthesia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.30-42
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• 2017

A comprehensive research must be conducted on manufacturing techniques such as patterns and sewing, with the understanding of material properties to satisfy consumers' emotions with a strong fashion trend orientation. Physical and emotional characteristics may change depending on the characteristics of the material, and the overall silhouette and feeling of the garment can change depending on how sewing is conducted.To examine the completeness of a finished garment depending on different kinds of clothing material, this study fabricated an actual garment and a 3D virtual garment as well using 3D CAD IMAGE SYSTEM (CLO 3D, DC Suite, etc.) for a comparative analysis. These two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. This study selected five of the most representative clothing materials and conducted a comparative analysis on appearance differences between actual clothing and virtual clothing by material. Additionally, the study verified the similarity between actual clothing and virtual clothing by comparing their physical properties by material, and evaluated the objectivity and accuracy of the reproducibility of material properties of virtual clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.