• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.72-78
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• 1986

The studies were performed to investigate the optimum conditions for tannic processing of silk by use Chinese Gallotannin and synthesized tannic acid, which are aimed at weighting, dyeing and physical properties of tannin treated silk. 1. It was reasonable that the concentration of tannin solution is 30 grams per liter of Chinese Gallotannin, 15 grams per liter of tannic acid for the efficient weighting of processed silk. The temperature and time for tannin treatment was optimum at 80$^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and the acidity of tannin solution at pH 2 to 3. 2. In dyeing the tannintreated silk by Acid dye Orange II, the temperature and time was reasonable at 60$^{\circ}C$, 90 minutes to control the desorption of tannin components weighted onto silk. 3. The colour differences ($\Delta$E) of dyed silk fabric by soaping could be remarkably narrowed by tannin treatment, resulting in improving the washing fastness of tannin treated silk by two grades more than that of untreated one. 4. The light fastness of tannin treated silk could be drastically improved by reducing the dye-loss of dyed silk fabric which was coused from the Ultra-violet ray irrdiation. 5. The rubbing fastness and water repellency of tannin treated silk was at the same level with that of untreated one. However, the Drape coefficient of tannin treated silk was decreased more than that of untreated one, which is closely related with fabric softness and dressing appearence.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.603-612
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• 2007

Giorgio Armani has made a huge success with his own persistent unique fashion styles for the last 30 years. But he too went through a transitional period during which he was criticized for lacking the so-called Armani design. Overcoming the confusion, however, he succeeded in recreating his styles of elegant image and fascinating people with his practical and yet sophisticated modern classical styles that he pioneered. The design characteristics of his men's clothing are as follows; functional and comfortable slim silhouettes that bring life to the curves of the human body, grey-based mixed colors in a natural atmosphere, natural materials such as wool, silk, and cashmere that are light and soft and have great drape properties with femininity, solid patterns with stripes, checks, and geometrical figures added, and the elegance expressed in moderate decorations such as a handkerchief and scarf. Armani men's clothing has enjoyed ongoing popularity and success across the world because it transcends time and allows men to maintain their class not being bound by the formality. It's also important to notice that Armani takes into account the perspectives of both men who wear his clothes and women who look at the men in his clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-117
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• 2016

Synthetic fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, were dyed with persimmon juice by using a padding mangle repeatedly. The mechanical properties of these synthetic fabrics were analyzed using the Kawabata evaluation system. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. As the number of repetitions of padding dyeing increased, the tensile energy per unit area and the tensile resilience of synthetic fabric remained almost unchanged, whereas the linearity of the load-extension curve of the synthetic fabrics increased. As the number of padding repetitions increased, the synthetic fabrics dyed with persimmon juice exhibited increases in thickness and weight. As the number of repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice increased, the values of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness, and softness also increased, whereas the flexibility with soft feeling, crispness, and scrooping sensation significantly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabrics increased after three repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice. Nylon and polyester fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice treated using a padding mangle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.156-162
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• 2013

For the development of high quality textiles, silk fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed silk fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curves of the silk fabrics were increased; however, the tensile resilience of fabrics decreased. The hysteresis values of shear force were increased without significant change of shear stiffness. The coefficient of friction values were also decreased and geometrical roughness values were increased. The silk fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight grow as the number of padding increases. The hand values of silk fabrics which were classified into 6 items in the Kawabata Evaluation System, were evaluated as repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice. The hand values of Koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness) were increased, whereas Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) were decreased by dyeing with persimmon juice. However there was no significant change in hand values according to repeating padding times of dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.609-619
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• 1996

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.97-97
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• 2012

비스코스 레이온 소재는 목재 펄프를 원료로 한 재생섬유로서 Drape성과 반발성은 탁월하나, 습식 방사에 따른 분자 구조적 불안정성으로 소비자가 일반 세탁 시 수축발생으로 종종 Dry Cleaning을 해야 하는 문제점들이 있음. 본 연구에서는 이와 같은 레이온의 단점을 극복하고 신축성 발현 및 형태안정성을 부여하기 위해 Rayon DTY사와 Spun T/R 40's를 개발하고 다양한 조직의 환편물을 제작하였으며, 기존의 레이온 제품 대비 수축률 등 형태안정성과 신축특성이 발현될 수 있는 염색가공 공정 조건을 설정하였음. 먼저 전처리시 균일하고 안정적인 수축이 발생하도록 하여 최종 생산품의 형태안정성과 신축성이 유지 될 수 있는 최적의 조건을 설정하였음. 전처리는 저온 축소 후 고온에서 정련하는 공정이 환편물의 조직에 관계없이 우수하였으며, 비교적 견뢰도가 우수하다고 판단되는 시판 분산염료 및 반응성염료를 사용하여 Polyester/Rayon의 2욕 2단 염색을 진행하였음. 또한 시제품의 품위를 높이기 위해 레이온 섬유의 고유한 특성을 부여할 수 있는 유연처방을 사용하여 총 13종의 환편물을 개발할 수 있었으며, 이렇게 개발된 원단은 형태안정성 -2.5~1.0%, 신장회복률 83% 이상, 필링성 4-5급의 결과를 나타내었음.