• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.153-165
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• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.333-342
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• 2012

We studied the characteristics of spatial distribution of global wave height and carried out the modelsensitivity test by changing the input field, model resolution and physical factor (effective wind factor) since the spatial and temporal resolution in wind wave forecasting is one of most important factors. Comparisons among the different cases, and also between model, buoy and satellite data have been made. As a results of the wind-wave model run using the high resolution wind field, the bias of significant wave height showed the positive tendency and the Root-Mean Square Error(RMSE) was a bit decreased based on the comparison with buoy data. When the model resolution was changed to higher, the bias and RMSE was increased, and as the effective wind factor was smaller than default value(= 1.4) the bias and RMSE showed also decreasing pattern.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.135-147
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• 2023

Satellite-observed significant wave heights (SWHs), which are widely used to understand the response of the ocean to climate change, require long-term and continuous validation. This study examines the accuracy and error characteristics of SWH observed by nine satellite altimeters in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean for 25 years (1992-2016). A total of 137,929 matchups were generated to compare altimeter-observed SWH and in-situ measurements. The altimeter SWH showed a bias of 0.03 m and a root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.27 m, indicating relatively high accuracy in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean. However, the spatial distribution of altimeter SWH errors showed notable differences. To better understand the error characteristics of altimeter-observed SWH, errors were analyzed with respect to in-situ SWH, time, latitude, and distance from the coast. Overestimation of SWH was observed in most satellite altimeters when in-situ SWH was low, while underestimation was observed when in-situ SWH was high. The errors of altimeter-observed SWH varied seasonally, with an increase during winter and a decrease during summer, and the variability of errors increased at higher latitudes. The RMSEs showed high accuracy of less than 0.3 m in the open ocean more than 100 km from the coast, while errors significantly increased to more than 0.5 m in coastal regions less than 15 km. These findings underscore the need for caution when analyzing the spatio-temporal variability of SWH in the global and regional oceans using satellite altimeter data.