• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.993-999
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• 2013

This study aimed to measure the amount of sweating on 12 parts of the upper body using absorption fabric and analyze subjective sensations. The study was conducted with 9 male subjects in climate chamber controled at $30{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$, and $55{\pm}5%$ RH. The result was that sweating amount of the upper back part was significantly more than upper front part. We assumed that forced convection flow cased by exercise decreased the sweating rate in the front. The skin temperature of upper front body rapidly decreased as soon as exercise starts and gradually increased with cessation of exercise. On the other hand, the skin temperature of palm increased with exercise and showed continuous increasing even exercise stopping all the experimental period. This is caused by thermoregulatory responses through vasodilatation on the peripheral area. Subjective sensations, such as thermal sensation, wet sensation, and thermal comfort showed the highest score at the time of exercise stop. This means the subjects felt more hot, wet, and uncomfortable after exercise stopped. Bur after wiping of sweat, subjective sensation scores were recovered rapidly. The present study has provided more detailed information on the upper body sweat distribution than previously available, which can be used in clothing design, thermo-physiological modeling, and thermal manikin design. We also think that results of the present study will play an important role in making the sweat distribution map.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.988-995
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• 2015

Gaps between the upper edges of brassiere mold cups and the breasts are one of the most serious issues in realizing comfort wearing of commercial brassieres for small-breasted women. The surplus ease amounts causing the fit problem were measured from 3D wearing images of the small-breasted women's brassieres. The effect after the removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup was approved by subjective wearing evaluation. Since the volume distribution of mold cup can also affect the wearing sensation of brassiere, the subjective wearing sensation was compared for two brassieres of different volume distributions, V_L, of which volume was concentrated at the lower cup, and V_C, which has the thickest part at the nipple. As the results, the suitable sensation for cup volume and the natural wearing silhouette could be accomplished by removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup to reduce the gaps between brassieres and the breasts, which could be accomplished through an approach reducing the volume near the upper edge of mold brassiere cup and making the volume concentrated at the lower cup. These works provide a useful information on the design of the brassiere mold cups for small-breasted women. Moreover, modeling methods of 3D scan data and 3D printing technique for making more accurate mold cases used in this research can be helpful to develop and evaluate clothing products in future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.25-31
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of luxury brand value on luxury brand preferences according to chemyon(social-face). For data collection, research questionnaires were responded by 222 females over 20 years old consumers living in Pusan and Ulsan. The collected data were analyzed using SPSS 14.0 for windows Package by frequency analysis, the factor analysis using Varimax, reliability analysis, multi-regression analysis, and chow-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, concerning the worth of luxury brands that qualify value, conspicuous value, unique value, and emotional value significantly affected the consumers' luxury brand preferences. On the other hand, only social value of the luxury brand did not have a significant effect on the consumers luxury brand preferences. Second, the study was to investigate whether the luxury brand value has an effect on the brand preferences according the consumer's chemyon or not. The results showed different effects of perceived values on luxury brand preferences between the low chemyon group and the high chemyon group. The high chemyon group had an effect on conspicuous value, social value, and emotional value, while the low chemyon group had an effect on quality value for luxury brand preference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.167-175
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• 2016

Brand personality is the human-like traits of brands that consumers can use to identify brands. Despite the importance of brand personality, there has been limited research about it in Korea recently, especially for casual apparel brands. Considering the changes in lifestyle and the increasing popularity of leasure activities in Korea, it is important to analyze the brand personality of casual brands for understanding Korean consumers. This study aimed to analyze the brand personalities of eight well-known casual brands in Korea, and to investigate the relationship between the brand personalities and brand preference. Specifically, this study questioned whether the similarity in brand personalities leads to similar patterns of preference for the brands. The eight brands were carefully selected so that they can well represent the diversity in the dimensions of perceived brand personality, while also being well-known to the participants of the survey. Factor analysis of the data from the survey of Korean university students yielded five factors of brand personality: liveliness, high class, ordinariness, rationality, and reliability. The eight brands showed significant difference across the five factors. Multidimensional scaling analyses of the brands were conducted based on the similarity in brand personality and brand preference respectively. The result showed significant difference in the relative distribution of the eight brands in the two-dimensional space of the analyses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.379-388
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• 2018

The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the Aloha shirt, is a short-sleeved, colorful shirt with traditional Polynesian designs (e.g., hibiscus, fish) originating in Hawai'i. The shirt was selected for study because it is a unique garment that originated in the Hawaiian Islands in the late $19^{th}$ and $20^{th}$ centuries and marketed as a tourist product but was eventually adopted as appropriate residential clothing by the $mid-20^{th}$ century, however with different aesthetic details. Today, it is assumed by Hawaiian Island residents that tourists demonstrate poor taste when selecting a Hawaiian shirt. The purposes of this study are to examine the validity of the assumption that tourist taste and resident taste in Hawaiian shirts are different and to investigate the current Hawaiian shirt market change. For this study, 555 questionnaires were obtained from tourists and residents, and 10 Hawaiian shirt retailers/wholesalers participated in in-depth interviews. The results indicated that differences do exist between tourists' and residents' preferences for print designs and colorway. The market change of Hawaiian shirts was also recognizable in that an increasing number of tourists select Hawaiian shirts similar to resident customers, as part of their routine lives rather than as holiday or vacation garments. Other differences in Hawaiian shirt shopping behavior included the findings that tourists consider fabrication less important than resident customers who consider fabrication more (i.e., cotton 100%). By using both quantitative and qualitative methods, this study contributes to the fashion design and marketing field as well as help manufacturers and retailers with their merchandise and distribution plans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.83-91
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• 2008

This study was designed to figure out the changes in elderly women's foot size and shape by aging, to propose size specification for elderly women's shoes, and to produce regression equations using representative measurements items to estimate other measurements usually hard to get. Subjects were 118 women of 30-59 years and the 227 elderly women over 60 years. Martin's anthropometry was done on the right foot of each subject for 25 items. And 11 indirect measurement items were measured on both foot printing sole outline and picture in profile taken by digital camera. For statistical analysis on the anthropometric measurements by SPSS program, analysis of variance, post-hoc test(SNK-test), crosstabulation, multiple correlation analysis, regression analysis were performed. The results of the study are as follows. Firstly, it was found that the foot figures of elderly women over 60 years were smaller in girth and width than those of below 60 years. In addition, it was revealed that a big toe and a little toe of elderly women showed a tendency concentrating to the central axis of feet. The foot index of elderly was smaller in width and girth. Secondly, foot size distribution table of elderly group showed wider size ranges and covered smaller sizes than the below the age of 60, meaning wide variation in foot size of elderly women. Thirdly, the multiple correlation analysis showed high correlation of foot length/girth to other measurements, suggesting these two items could be used as representative items for elderly women's shoe size specification as other age groups. Regression equations were produced using foot length/girth to estimate other measurements, suggesting such items could be estimated effectively and utilized in on/off-line shoe manufacturing shop as heel to big toe length, heel to little toe length, exterior malleouls width, instep girth, ankle girth, etc. These results imply prudent features of elderly women's foot as diversity of foot shape and wide size specification range should be applied for ergonomic shoe design for them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.652-659
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• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.776-784
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• 2014

KS K 0051(2009) was established in 1990 and revised in 1994, 1999, 2004 and 2009. Recently the structure of apparel production and distribution are changing like as small quantity batch production, increase of importing abroad apparel and increase of on-line shopping mall. Based on Social and economic conditions, examine the potential for use of KS K 0051(2009) standard sizing system for female adult's garments are needed. Through which, it was intended to suggestion for the revision of standard sizing system for female adult's garments which can facilitate communication among consumer, producer and sellers. The improvement point was discussed through review of the current KS K 0051 (2009) and abroad standard sizing system for female adult's garments, ISO 3637(1977), ISO 4416(1981), BS EN 13402-2(2002), BS EN 13402-3(2004), JIS L 4005(2001) and GB/T 1335.2(2008). Also, the revision of standard sizing system for female adult's garments was suggested using data of 6th Size Korea. As a result of this study, in the revision, formal wear, casual wear, training wear and under wear were separated to simplify the classification and the classification of body type were excluded. Also, it is possible that size designation was simplified through optional notation and letter code based on bust girth could be marked together in casual wear.