• Title/Summary/Keyword: directoire

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Romanticism Characteristics of the Incroyables Fashion during the Directoire (총재정부 시기 앵크루아야블(Incroyables) 복식의 낭만주의 특성)

  • Shin, Param;Lee, Hyojin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2020
  • Romanticists realized the ideals of a more fantastic and better society for the present day in which they lived; in addition, dress was an important medium of expression of this period. The Incroyables were a group that expressed eccentric forms and abuses of luxury through their clothing, centering around the second generation of financial elite groups during the French Directoire. Incroyables created their own fashion that expresses their new image in dress, expressing the intense personal innerity of life, which was influenced by the romanticism of pursuing an internal expression of the subjective and emotional individual. This study used a literature review to analyze the characteristics of the Romanticism expressed in the Incroyables fashion. The research results were as follows. First, it was an expression of an emotional desire for and ancient regime. Incroyables fashion were based on bourgeois nostalgia for the days of the ancient regime that resulted in an emphasis on individual and original human views. Second, it was also a hybrid of Romantic classicism. It was a form emphasizing body form where body beauty expressed a classical form through a dress under the influence of neo-classicalism that desires to return to nature.

Etude sur Ie Costume de Style d'Empire -De 1789 $\`{a}$ 1815 en France- (Empire Style의 복장에 관한 연구 -프랑스의 1789~1815년을 중심으로-)

  • Kim Ok Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 1981
  • Nous avons essaye, dans cette etude, de deceler les caracteristiques de la silhouette du style d'Empire en eclairant it la fois le processus de sa formation ai travers La Monarchie, La Republique, Le Directoire, Le Consulat et l'Empire. Nous avons souligne comme suit: En premier lieu, comme les caracteristiques generaux, la simp lification et la democratisation. En second lieu, comme celles de La Monarchie et de La Republique, la transformation renovatrice en forme grossiere du style cylindriforme de la mode d'epoque ancienne. En troisieme lieu, comme celles du Directoire, la formation de l'unite esthetique au haut degre et les lignes naturelles du corps. En quatrieme lieu, comme celles du Consulat et de l'Empire, l'achevement du style d'Empire d'ornement somptueux refletant l'autorite politique de l'Empereur.

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A Study on the Incroyables and Merveilleuses Costume after the French Revolution (프랑스혁명 이후의 Incroyables와 Merveilleuses 복식에 대한 연구)

  • 이유경
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.429-440
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    • 2004
  • The age after the French Revolution was the period of experiment and change in dress for both men and women. Directly after the close of the Reign of Terror, Directoire(1795-1799) became the extreme fashion known as incroyables and merveilleuses which mean 'impossible' or 'unimaginable'. This study aimed to investigate the sociocultural phenomena which affect to clothing change through the French Revolution period and clothing analysis of incroyables and merveillues. Furthermore, this study will contribute to establishing the theory of clothing culture and help predicting clothing change in accordance with social circumstances. Incroyables and merveilleuses represent extreme opposites in sleekness of attire and grooming. Incroyables required an unkempt, wrinkled appearance and a contrived carelessness. Merveilleuseses show the exaggerated transparency and simplicity in the fashions of female. Also, they devoted to the worship of the antique and the masculine fashions. This fashion madness appeared as the result of revolutionary social change. Their costume showed characteristics of the transition period between French Revolution and Classic period. However, they simply carried existing tendencies to the point of caricature by an enthusiastic overstatement.

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A Research on the Women's Costume on the Bigdata of Movie Napoleon

  • Weolkye KIM;Sangwon LEE
    • International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.21-28
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    • 2024
  • The public can access movies more easily than any other cultural genre. The film's costumes convey the social, political, and cultural climate of that time period. Additionally, it subtly conveys the message of the movie, including the intentions of the director and the characters. Filmmakers can now use fact-based materials to plan their films, and audiences can now watch costume in movies with objective standards, particularly in period dramas, thanks to the advancements in over-the-top (OTT) services. The 77th British Academy costume Award went to the movie Napoleon because of how much emphasis it placed on the outfit. Ninety-five percent of the costume was made by experts in military uniforms and costumery. In contrast to the previous aristocratic and exaggerated Rococo costume, Napoleonic clothing had a natural and common-class character. A natural-shaped Chemise dress composed of light, reflective material first appeared in the Directoire era, just after the French Revolution. Chemise dresses made of a variety of materials gained popularity during the Empire era. With Napoleon taking the throne and Josephine becoming the empress, the vibrant court culture resurfaced during the Empire era. The silk was embellished with gold thread and embroidery, train dangling forms, and different types of sleeves appeared in Empire styles. They wore Pellisse and shawls under the coat. The hair style had long, ancient hair and was adorned with fillets. They also wore straw hats, bonnets, and caps. Long gloves and parasols were also popular accessories, as were pearl or colored jewelry necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. During the Empire era, tiaras were fashionable. Shoes were either low-heeled pumps or sandals. The movie uses Chemise and Empire costumes, which are versatile enough to be used in a range of settings and eras. When it came to details, the type of sleeve was employed without regard to time, such as when using those from an earlier or later period. Since jewelry was worn more often than not in that era, practically every character has earrings on their necklaces. Nearly exact replicas of the coronation costume can be found in paintings by Jacques-Louis David. The red trains, Josephine's Empire dress, the crown, the Tiara, and the costumes of every character in attendance were all clearly identifiable in terms of form and color. To further aid viewers in understanding and enhancing the film's overall coherence, a scene featuring David drawing the coronation was added. Overall, there were differences in that the historical costumes were accurately recreated, the materials and details were utilized without restriction, and some of the costumes were designed with modern materials or accessories that were used more than the historical costumes. This section appears to have been written to highlight the beauty of the characters' personalities or settings. There is a limitation to this study in that it only looked at aristocratic clothing, which includes Josephine's. We will concentrate on male clothing in future research.