• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2024

This study explores application of upcycling design methods in structural transformation of second-hand denim clothing, aiming to achieve sustainable design objectives. By drawing inspiration from Liu Qing's research methods in the field of circular utilization of denim clothing, this study collected and analyzed cases of structural transformation of used denim clothing from 2020 to 2023. It summarized structural transformation design methods for used denim clothing. Through the development of design works, this study aims to find out the best upgrading and renovation design strategy by applying the method of structural renovation design. This study aims to support the development of a sustainable fashion industry and promote recycling and upcycling of discarded clothing fabrics, thereby reducing resource waste and environmental impact.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.959-976
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• 2023

This study participated in educational programs for young designers and received trainings in sewing technology through government and local government-supported projects led by a from a skilled craftsman. These initiatives aim to revitalize the Dongdaemun fashion cluster, which is currently experiencing stagnation. Our goal is to develop denim brands that reflect the unique regional characteristics stemming from the skilled sewing techniques and denim processes of the Changsin·Sungin regions, the production hubs supporting Dongdaemun, to discover solutions for revitalizing the local industry. For the research method, we collected data by actively participating in support projects related to the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. Additionally, we gathered data by conducting a theoretical review of the sewing industry in the Changsin·Sungin regions and the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. The research results include developing a denim brand collection-eight denim products-based on Changsin-dong's unique denim sewing technology and various denim washing processes acquired through the support project and regional characteristics. Overall, this study is meaningful in presenting a sustainable plan to revitalize the domestic sewing and manufacturing industry, focusing on the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. We achieved this by developing a denim brand that leverages the sewing and washing process technology and the unique regional characteristics of Changsin-dong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.348-356
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• 2013

Denim washing is processed with different washing techniques such as stone washing, chemical washing, sand washing, and bio washing. Cellulase bio washing can meet environmental regulations that enhance and rectify problems associated with traditional decolorization techniques; however, stone washing needs to be added to the processing because it produces a low decolorization effect. There is also the problem of additional strength reduction. To prevent these problems, a new enzyme for bio washing is required. This study examines the optimum laccase treatment conditions on denim and evaluated the characteristics of laccase-treated denims to establish a database of eco-friendly new decolorization process on denim using a new laccase enzyme. The results show that the optimum conditions of laccase on denim are a pH of 4.0, $30^{\circ}C$, 7% (o.w.f.), and 6 hours in 10 mM of buffer concentration. UV absorbance and HPLC identified isatin coexist with anthranilic acid in solution after laccase treatment on denim. Results of the surface color, the surface morphology and the tensile strength indicate that laccase treatment shows an excellent decolorization effect without fiber damage. The wet cleaning fastness and the perspiration fastness also improved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.465-468
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• 2009

In this study, acid cellulase was used to treat denim fabrics by varying pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, treatment time and non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) concentration. Treatment condition was controlled based on the weight loss. The characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured in terms of tearing strength, stiffness, and color difference. The optimum conditions for cellulase treatment of denim fabric were pH 5.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 3% (o.w.f.), 90minutes. The weight loss did not change significantly with the addition of a non-ionic surfactant, but it improved when more non-ionic surfactant were used. The tearing strength of enzyme-treated denim fabrics did not deteriorate. The stiffness of the treated fabrics improved with the enzymatic treatment with and without the non-ionic surfactant. The difference in color of fabrics treated with enzyme increased.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.47-62
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• 2018

This study examined recycled fashion design utilizing natural images for application to recent trends. This study is significant in that it presents the possibility of the development of recycled women's wear design by reflecting the characteristics and expressions of natural images and using denim material, which is the most common clothing material for everyday life. The results of this study are summarized as follows. First, five types of women's clothing was produced, pursuing a natural design with a soft and feminine silhouette. Second, the colors used were blue and white, which could represent nature. Third, as for materials, this study used clothing that was to be thrown away: four pairs of denim pants and two denim dresses. This study chose denim cloth, with its great value for reuse, because of the characteristics of the strong and durable fiber, because everyone has more than one article of clothing made from denim and because it can be easily sourced. Fourth, for textile motifs, this study expressed a peaceful natural scenery with tropical animals and plants. In addition, this study further emphasized natural images using transfer media printing. This study has significance in that it presented the possibility of recycled fashion design and expanded the range of utilization using transfer media printing, a dyeing treatment to reduce the environmental burden.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2007

The denim fashion is a style of clothing showing trends towards globalization in that it is most favored and most frequently purchased and worn by youngsters throughout the world. However, it differs from region to region in its shapes, colors, silhouettes and coordination, reflecting a feature of regionalism. Male denim fashion data were collected from large cities of the East and the West for an analysis in terms of design and coordination. It was found that a common point originated from the features of the clothing itself as well as from a common culture shared among those of similar ages while differences came from various factors such as aesthetic sentiments and lifestyle of each ethnic group, willingness to accept the fashion trends, and the ways of expressing oneself by means of clothing and their attitude towards clothing. It was noteworthy that the denim fashion in Europe and America, Beijing and Seoul differed largely owing to their different tastes for expressing themselves. A comparison study of the regional denim styles may lead to a better understanding of a worldwide phenomenon of the common fashion trends and regional differences in aesthetic appeal and the fashion preference.