• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.139-156
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of traditional Korean patterns appearing on fashion collections from 1990 to 2005. Traditional Korean patterns have been used as an important element to express a Korean image since the 1990s. Frequently used patterns included several kinds of geometric patterns, plant patterns(flower, peony, Four Gracious Plants), and Chinese character patterns. Specifically, since the 2000s, animal patterns such as tiger, Chinese phoenix, and giraffe which were not often used, plant patterns such as arabesque, peony, and flower, and a variety of Chinese character patterns appeared. For the expression techniques, while embroidery and printing was often used in the 1990s, they became varied into printing, beading, embroidery, gold and silver leaf, and hand painting after 2000 as a result of designers' active attempts. The aesthetic characteristics of fashion design with its focus on traditional patterns were analyzed. First, Chinese character patterns and phoenix pattern which were mainly used for a court suit, and show the excellence and unique originality of Korean culture. Second, traditional Korean patterns directly and indirectly imply symbolistic significance of lucky sign and illustrate the use of various lucky sign patterns. Third, traditional Korean patterns such as arabesque or peony were expressed by colorful embroidery to add decorative beauty. Finally, traditional Korean patterns reflect a naturalistic worldview and are completed finished as the design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.336-346
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• 2013

This study focuses on 'texture' as one of the most important fashion and textile design elements; in addition, it proposes various applications of it. Surface texture is indispensable in fashion and textile design that also factors heavily into innovative creations. Along with technological advances in the fashion industry, surface texture has derived many new and attractive features that provide more opportunities for designers to show various design concepts. Rather than the surface quality of fabrics, surface texture in fashion design creates its identity through a manipulation of materials- an application that tends to be primarily for visual effects without being restricted to decorative purposes. The status and significance of surface texture in various creative fields is explored and the evolution of surface texture is traced by analyzing a number of fashion design cases with representative surface textures. The latest feature of surface texture in fashion and textile design is identified to establish a new classification of surface texture with five groups and technical suggestions. This study provides a theoretical basis for this field of study and a new framework that can be employed in the development of surface textures that use innovative techniques as well as the future application of newly-developed textures.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제37호
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• pp.80-87
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• 2003

Contemporary shops play an important role as a place to experience contemporary culture as well as sales and display techniques. This study is to suggest one of the prototypes of character streets consisting of characteristic shops through the analysis of the stores in the SoHo area in New York City. The study found that there are three kinds of characteristic shops preserving the cast-iron architectural environment in the SoHo area. In the first case, the interiors of the shops are partially renovated original lofts keeping decorative columns, white plaster walls and wooden floors. In the second case, the interiors are totally renovated leaving no old traces. This is achieved through wrapping columns and replacing old materials with new ones. In the third case, the interiors are renovated with the different approaches using mixed ideas and materials. The original columns exist but are transformed in this case. In the third case, shops tend to be extra large and complicated. The Prada shop in SoHo by Rem Koolaas is the best example of this case. This shop is the conceptual city, theater and avant-garde museum itself, that is, the place of experiencing contemporary culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.18-33
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• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.180-197
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O'Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O'Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O'Keeffe's works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.57-69
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• 2005

A stylobate, part of the foundation for hardening soil below the floor, has been built with a variety of materials, such as stone, tile and brick, in several kinds of combined constructions of soil, stone, and brick. In particular, Baekje used a tile-piled stylobate that could not be found in Goguryeo and Silla counterparts, thus showing outstanding performance in the construction culture. Archeological excavations up to now evidence the stylobate played a role in building the magnificent structures or enhancing the decorative effects. It can be enough inferred that such features are reflected on dual footing stylobate, framed stylobate and tile-piled stylobate. Baekje had delivered its techniques for constructing stylobate to Silla from about the middle of 6th century. They can be traced down back from the dual stylobate that has been identified in Hwangryong-sa temple lastly built in the old site of Silla, those constructed with broken stones at Najeong, tile-piled stylobate of the mode of vertical-horizontal rows which had been established in Inwang-dong, Gyeongju, the capital of the kingdom, and a framed stylobate at Hall enshrining Buddha (Golden Hall) site of Gameun-sa temple site. Recently, relics of structures, including temple sites, are intermittently being unearthed in the old sites of Baekje and Silla. However, studies linking archeology with architecture can be rarely found up to now. It is, therefore, necessary that the relics should be correctly construed in archeological as well as architectural aspects. We expect that further studies can graft architectural insight into archeological analysis.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.89-108
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Therefore, this study will focus on investigate the process of changing 'Chesanja' into Guya(Goya) through ${\ll}Barktonsa{\gg}$ the foreign language transcriptions of the Chosun dynasty, and examine the generation, fashion, and destruction of this technique with the social technical usage. Around the 16th century of the Joseon Dynasty, 'Chesanja' had been actively used as a decorative techniques to dairy products as well as a Buddhist memorial goods embroidered. Accor- dingly, in the "Beonnyeok-Baktongsa"(1515) appeared together written records with 'Chesanja' 'Gwiyeo[귀여]' the Eonhae(Korean annotation) only had emerged in the Joseon Dynasty. It was still a technique to decorate the edges of royal pillow in the mid-17th century. And we have checked from the text "Baktongsaeonhae"(1677) also. Despite this by the mid-18th century, the term in "Baktongsa-sinseok"(1765) and "Baktongsa-sinseok-eonhae"(1765) had disappeared. This phenomenon suggests the possibility that the production and utilization of 'Chesanja' required the sophisticated process for the ruling class had been declined with the custom of embroidery based on the gradation by colorful threads as the preferred technique. Therefore, 'Chesanja' and 'Gwiyeo'[귀여] disappeared from the records but they can be found in the artifacts of the royal family of 19th century. So Chesanja is calls Guya(Goya) and exists as unique technic only in the royal family.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.