• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제14권7호
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• pp.251-262
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• 2020

본 연구는 현대 뮤지컬사에서 대두되는 뮤지컬 양식을 통합과 해체란 관점으로 분석함으로써, 각 양식에 내포된 특성과 전략을 학술적으로 규명하는 데 있다. 뮤지컬의 양식은 시대에 따라 이합·통합 ·해체·융합의 시기로 나눌 수 있다. 뮤지컬 양식은 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘의 관점으로 양식의 발현시기와 의미를 고찰할 수 있다. 모더니즘은 '통합'과 '집중'의 에너지가 주조를 이루며, 전기 포스트 모더니즘은 '해체'와 '분산'의 동력이, 후기 포스트모더니즘은 양 사조의 변증법적 결과물로서 '융합'과 '조화'의 철학이 주조를 이루며 작동하고 있다. 뮤지컬의 창작 원리인 통합과 해체 원리는 뮤지컬 태동기의 불안정한 이합의 양식의 발전기를 지나 발현하였다. 이후 로저스와 해머스타인 2세의 등장으로 인해 드라마의 선형성이 강조되는 북 뮤지컬의 통합 원리를 구축하였고, 새로운 내용을 담기위해 콘셉트 뮤지컬의 해체 원리가 탄생하였다. 이후 뮤지컬 작품들에서 발견되는 '융합성'은 이합에서 통합으로, 해체에서 다시 통합으로 선회하는 것으로, 좀 더 발전적인 의미에서 통합이 해체를 다시 포용하고 있다. 이렇듯 끊임없이 서로에게 영향을 주면서 더 좋은 방향으로 발전하는 융합적 절충은 뮤지컬 양식의 발전에 이바지 할 수 있음을 알 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.3-17
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• 1998

The aim of this thesis is to clarify the application of Derrida's 'Deconstruction' theory on the contemporary costume. Derrida's theory of 'Deconstruction' took into the 'decentring' concept which deconstructed the subjects i.e., Occidentalism, Elitecentrism, logocentrism, mancentrism etc.; it deconstructed the dichotomy that had been expressed in the traditional occidental metaphysics, by raising the isolated ones such as the Orient, sub-culture, ir- rationality, madness, woman etc. Summarizing the conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The impact of 'Deconstruction' from the inside is to be seen in the principles of intertextuality of the costume, therefore it has shown the bisexual costume by interacting gender, and the costume by mixing time, place and occasion. 2. $\ulcorner$Dis$\lrcorner$ deft phenomena which shows the concept of escape from the center were presented as decentring, dislocation, discomposition, disorder. 3. Undecidability principle resulted in the undecidable presentation in the wearing styles such as wearing, unwearing, layering. Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the inside regards costume as a dynamic text, which has attempted the interaction with the other genres. It deconstructed the teleology of the costume function, and it accepts all the various aesthetic principles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.145-160
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to review the concept and thinking structure of deconstruction theoretically and thereupon, analyze the visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing and further, discuss the aesthetic characteristics and values of the decentering phenomenon in the 21st century fashion. Deconstruction provides for an cognitive framework whereby we could comprehensively review the difficult-to-understand and imprudent creativity unravelling in the name of the post-modernism as well as the ambiguous visual beauty and wearable comfort of our contemporary fashion. In particular, deconstruction refuses such concepts involving the relationship between the conventional clothing and its components as order, symmetry, balance, harmony, perfection and simplicity and instead, attaches some sense of value to such relatively inferior concepts as disorder, asymmetry, unbalance, disharmony, imperfection and complexity, and thus, reflects them in the modes of aesthetic representations to create new aesthetics and expand the expressive potential.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 한국건설관리학회논문집
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.63-70
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• 2014

건설폐기물의 재활용과 재사용 비율을 높이기 위해서는 건축물의 분별해체 공법이 적용되어야 한다. 본 연구에서는 공동주택을 대상으로 시험시공을 실시하였다. 먼저 해체 과정에서 발생할 수 있는 모든 건설페기물을 건물의 각 부위별로 조사하였다. 해체대상 건물의 도면을 작성하고 이 도면을 분석하여 각 건설페기물의 발생량을 예측하였다. 공동주택의 한 빌딩씩 분별해체와 일반해체과정을 실시하면서 이 과정에 투입되는 인력 및 장비의 소요시간을 측정하고, 또한 각 해체과정에서 발생된 폐기물을 정밀 계측하여 이것의 체적, 단위중량 등을 제시하였다. 이러한 자료의 분석을 통해 도면분석 결과와 현장에서 발생된 건설페기물의 양을 비교분석하여 현장 회수율, 체적 및 중량 환산계수, 폐기물 원단위를 제안하였다. 이러한 계수는 건설페기물의 발생량 예측과 운반비 산정, 작업 공정계획 수립 등을 위한 기초적 자료로서 활용될 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제40호
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• pp.34-41
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• 2003

A purpose of this study is to comprehend a concept of 'Open Space', realization of a deconstruction, presented in his works, based on a deconstruction and surrealism Coop Himmelblau's philosophical contemplation and to look into how this concept is interpreted in spaces. A concept of 'Open Space' is functioned as not a singular meaning but a multiple meaning accompanied with other formative ingredient and contemplation, scientific paradigm and a realation with a surroundings. The concept of 'Open Space' in their architentural space is applied. First, the space openness that represents to the extreme a concept 'Open Space', as a 3D designing ways that demolishes a structure and outgrows an ex siting thinking pattern, represents multiple grade spaces and an anti-gravity space. In a material, using glass and iron provides a spacial transparency and through this, visibly liberal sense that an interior and exterior is felt as an unification. Second, an non-expressive box pattern repulses to a spatial rank nature, outgrowing an uniform geometrical system, through demolishing a geometrical system, an edge and fold pattern. This is, as an anti-gravity, dynamic a typical structure, outgrowing an orthogonal system, interpreted as a composite meaning without division in spatial area. Third, the collage is used to represent a complexity and pluralism in representing 'Open space'. The collage that forms a image through combining a fragmentary elements into being a space change, composite constitution and spatial amusement. Thus, It is worthwhile to study how the collage that forms a diverse shape will be developed making what impact as an age and surroundings changed. As we contemplate in former part, Coop Himmelblou has deployed 'deconstruction beyond deconstruction' realm as just their midterm concept in their works like the words 'The architecture must climb', the deconstructive architect. A studying for their works reflecting the 'Open Space' concept based on deconstruction must be lasted and this enables us to comprehend space concept containing an architecture and interior design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.326-338
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• 2007

This paper examines the works produced from 2000, the first year of the new millenium, to the late 2006 with a focus on those of Jean Paul Gaultier, a representative designer of deconstruction, in an effort to determine the aesthetic characters of deconstructional fashion. In this context, this paper deals with the theoretical study on the concepts and features of deconstruction as a part of analysis into its fashion using the works of Gaultier as a major source viewed to typically demonstrate the deconstructional characters of fashion. For this purpose, a survey was conducted to 155 works of Gaultier featured from 2001 to 2006 mostly in Vogue, the popular and influencing magazine of the USA(39 pieces in 2001, 30 in 2002, 29 in 2003, 23 in 2004, 12 in 2005 and 22 in 2006, respectively). In particular, 106 fashion pictures were put to analysis as they seemed to represent deconstruction intensively. The deconstructional characters of his works were examined in the categories of difference, inter-meaning, inter-textuality and decomposition on the basis of preceding studies, which resulted in the following outcomes: First, difference was found in 38 works out of 106 images, accounting for 36%, the biggest frequency; Second, inter-meaning accounted for 33% with 35 pieces, most frequently next to difference; Third, inter-textuality followed inter-meaning with 17 images or 15% in terms of frequency; Fourth, decomposition was revealed in 16 images in the same ratio of 15% as inter-textuality.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.88-107
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• 2012

Hybrid implies that elements in more than two are combined, and is what is merged and used complexly the technologies and materials in several fields according to the development in scientific technology and the progress in technology. In the formative and artistic aspect, the hybrid can be said to be phenomenon that two of mutually different genres are combined. The function and form in each genre, which were combined at this time, are remained wholly or partially, thereby revealing as well without hiding a fact of having been combined. In the digital communication era, the same time level was integrated into one culture, with destroying the temporal·spatial boundary. As for the objectives of this study, first, the aim is to suggest a model for researching into make-up by grasping the developmental process and the characteristics of hybrid art through considering an art theory of hybrid, which was shown in make-up. Second, the aim is to design make-up by analyzing trend by make-up style after applying the genre deconstruction in hybrid. The modern make-up design through genre-deconstruction characteristics beyond diverse plurality and genre could be known to be highlighted as aesthetic characteristic by a slight attempt as communication of open space, which connects culture and genre, which had failed to be recognized and was neglected. Through the results of this study, it could be known that there is infinite possibility in developing make-up design in line with modern sensation through aesthetic element and symbolic significance through genre deconstruction. Based on these findings, its significance can be said to be in substantially contributing to offering new sight to the design & formative characteristic and the expression mode in future make-up, to providing basic data, and to strengthening competitive edge of culture and art.