• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2012

다양한 체형을 지니고 있는 소비자들에게 만족스러운 착용감을 주는 기성복 생산을 위해서는 체형 특성이 반영된 원형 제작이 필요하다. 인체는 체형에 따라 곡면의 형태가 달라지므로, 인체의 곡면 형태를 세분화하여 그 특성을 원형 설계에 반영할 필요가 있다. 그러나 기성복에서는 개인의 체형별 특징을 일일이 반영하기 힘드므로, 기성복 원형 제작에 활용 가능한 체형별 인대 모형이 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 삼차원 인체스캔 데이터를 활용하여 체형을 분석하고 각 체형에 따른 인대모형 개발 방법을 제시하였다. 30대 성인 여성의 상반신 삼차원 인체 형상 자료를 분석한 결과, 체형 특성은 보통체형, 비만체형, 마른체형으로 분류되었다. 상반신을 기준선을 두어 나누어 계측한 결과, 체형에 따라 유의적인 차이가 나타났다. 계측된 각 부위별 삼차원 인체 치수를 기본 원형 설계 시 허리다트 위치 및 분량 설정에 반영하여 체형별 상반신 기본 원형을 제작하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 입체모형을 제작하여 스캔, 모델링 작업을 거쳐 체형에 맞는 원형 인대 모형을 제시하였다. 인대 모형은 인체의 입체 형상을 만들기 위한 다트선을 포함하고 있어 기본 원형 제작 및 원형 활용에 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

본 연구는 20대 비만 여성에게 적합한 보디스 원형 개발을 위해 프랑스, 일본 패션교육기관의 원형과 우리나라 교육용 원형 1개, 우리나라 산업체용 원형 2개 등 총 5개 패턴 제도법을 비교·분석하였다. 이를 통해 플러스 사이즈 여성 의복 개발에 적합한 보디스 원형 패턴 제도법을 알아보고자 하였다. 패턴제도를 위해 패턴1은 앞품, 뒤품, 젖가슴둘레, 목둘레, 등길이 등 가장 많은 신체치수를 적용하였고, 패턴2, 패턴4, 패턴5는 젖가슴둘레, 등길이를 기준으로 모든 패턴을 제작하였다. 외관평가 결과, 패턴3이 앞중심길이의 적합성, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성 항목을 제외하고 모든 항목에서 가장 우수한 패턴으로 평가되었다. 그러나 옆선의 수직, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성, 뒤진동둘레 위치 및 형태의 적합성, 뒤어깨다트 위치의 적합성 등의 항목에서는 부적합한 것으로 평가되었다. 보디스 원형은 젖가슴둘레 치수를 기준으로 대부분의 패턴 제도가 이루어지나 비만 여성의 경우 목둘레 설정, 어깨길이 설정에 있어서는 다른 제도법이 필요할 것으로 생각된다. 또, 복부 돌출로 앞중심길이 설정 방법에 대한 개발도 요구되었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.