• 제목/요약/키워드: dangcho pattern

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당초문양의 특성변인에 따른 감성이미지 - 표현유형, 문양배열, 적용대상, 구매욕구, 연령을 중심으로 - (The Sensibility Image by the Property Variables of Dangcho Pattern - Focusing on the Representative Type, Pattern Arrangement, Object of Application, Desire of Purchase and Ages -)

  • 박영희
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제7권2호
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    • pp.169-178
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    • 2005
  • This study was aimed at investigating the relationship between the sensibility image of Dangcho pattern and the pattern composition variables(representation type, pattern arrangement, object of application, desire of purchase, ages). The results obtained are as follows: The sensibility image which is derived from Dangcho pattern was investigated in the property of five dimensions, that is, the property of fascination, elegance, high grade, uniqueness, and correctness. The sensibility image of Dangcho pattern was the significant main effect according to pattern composition variables(representation type, pattern arrangement, object of application, desire of purchase, ages), and was the significant collation effect between each of pattern composition variables. The sensibility image of the Dangcho pattern which had most an influence on degree of preference and desire of purchase was examined by the property of fascination.

인구 통계적 특성에 따른 당초 문양의 선호도 (A Study on the Preference Degree of a Dangcho Pattern according to Demographic Characteristic)

  • 박영희
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제14권6호
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    • pp.887-899
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    • 2006
  • In this study the preference degree of a Dangcho pattern with priority given to demographic variables was examined. The results was that demographic variables have influence on the preference degree of a Dangcho pattern. The continual arrangement pattern of a stylistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s and over most prefer. The continual arrangement pattern of a realistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s and over and women in their 50s and over most prefer. The continual arrangement pattern of a geometrical type was shown as the pattern that men working on a sales, service, production position and women in their 50s most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a stylistic type was shown as the pattern that college men in their 20s, men in their 50s and women working on a sales, production, service position most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a stylistic type of a realistic type was shown as the pattern that men in their 40s working on a sales, service, production position and college women in their 20s most prefer. The single arrangement pattern of a geometrical type was shown as the pattern that most of people prefer.

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유용생물자원을 이용한 천연염료의 개발 및 문화상품전개 - 함평나비축제를 위한 관광기념품 개발에 관한 연구중심으로 - (Development of Natural Dyeing Pigments and Culture Goods with Useful Biological Resources - Research on Development of Tourist Souvenirs for Hampyeong Butterfly Festival -)

  • 박미령;김상률
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제8권6호
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    • pp.665-671
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    • 2006
  • This study is to develop tourist souvenir which designed image of butterfly, the symbol of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival, using natural dyeing product, the specialty of Namdo region. Results of market survey of tourist souvenirs for Hampyeong Butterfly festival showed that souvenirs of butterfly design sold in market which were not discriminated from that of general products and locality or characteristic of the region could not be exhibited. According to the results of market survey, design of souvenirs of Hampyeong Butterfly Festival is as follows; Butterfly pattern of hinge and Dangcho pattern are developed to graphic motive of modern sense with traditional beauty to make design which can be consumed by modern consumers in their actual life and then proper pattern is planned by combining, repeating and disassembling them. Such a pattern is applied to souvenirs like T-shirts, necktie and scarf to make tourists feel identity and unification of the festival visually. In addition, design of souvenirs was made to be coordinated with casuals. Therefore, visual factor could be extracted from Korean cultural heritages suitable to concept of local festivals and it is considered that ways of commercialization and development of traditional pattern suitable to consumers' demands can be suggested.

동서양 복식에 나타난 식물문양의 종교적 상징성 연구 -한국과 비잔틴의 비교를 중심으로- (An analysis of botanical patterns식 religious symbol in clothing - focusing on comparison of Korea and Byzantine -)

  • 이윤정
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제5권3호
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    • pp.37-48
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    • 2003
  • 'Pattern' is of very unique nature in each and every country around the world, and its aesthetic feeling of 'pattern' has been handed down according to its nationality and cultural development process. That is, 'pattern' is ornament to symbolize each country's aesthetic standard or choice through some shape, reflecting social consciousness or religion philosophy. Mostly based upon literature survey and case study, this survey paper analytically compares oriental botanical pattern with occidental botanical figure, which has been influenced by Buddhism-Confucianism and Christian religion respectively. The results show that some patterns are commonly used in both area, while meaning differently in some cases: lotus (life), pomegranate (wealth and prosperity in orient, resurrection in occident), grape (fecundity in orient, wealth in occident), dangcho (fecundity in orient, victory in occident). And the other patterns look uniquely used either just in orient or only in occident. For instance, oriental area had its own patterns such as peony (meaning wealth and honour), peach (longevity), ume flower (happiness), orchid (fecundity); while occidental area used lily (purity), olive (peace), palm (victory), and so on. Interestingly, the botanical patterns were used as main patterns in orient whereas as minor in occident.

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한국 전통문양의 현대적 재구성을 통한 티셔츠 디자인 개발 (Modernization of the Korean Traditional Patterns and Its Application to T-Shirts)

  • 예인걸;김동욱;정인희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제37권3호
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    • pp.270-279
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    • 2013
  • This study presents a T-shirt design process that utilizes modernized traditional patterns; in addition, it also includes various modernization techniques for Korean traditional patterns. T-shirts are a representative casual wear item worn in everyday life, especially among young people. The association of traditional elements and public goods such as T-shirts effects the diffusion of the Korean image into global society. Through the whole design process, target groups and design concepts were determined first: collegiate students as well as clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image, respectively. Subsequently, Dokkaebi, lotus, Dangcho, dragon and Taegeuk patterns were selected as traditional pattern sources. Along with the technique of the division, transformation, and configuration of original patterns, the combining method of geometrical figures, stripe patterns, and check patterns with traditional patterns was helped create modernized traditional motives. Finally, T-shirt designs with a Korean image were developed with the harmonized deployment of modernized motives and color planning. The survey showed that designs had a clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image that was preferred by collegiate students. This study is relevant in three aspects. First, the design process of modernization was very creative to combine traditional patterns and basic figures. Second, this study expanded the scope of traditional image design to casual wear to promote the Korean image to young people all over the world. Third, the whole design process, from planning to final product development, presented in this study is applicable to other design processes.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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