• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.124-137
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• 2013

This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.