• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.75-84
• /
• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• The Journal of Engineering Geology
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.345-350
• /
• 2009

The endpoint of the Yangbuk tunnel constructed at the national road between Gyeongju and Gampo is composed of massive cutting because the road is driven through the sides of mountain. PAP(Prestressed Anchor and PC Pannel) retaining wall as a slope stability method was established over this section. Part of the anchor in PAP wall became broken after six months. We performed inverse analysis through its measurements obtained until that time. An geological investigation to confirm the condition of ground layering and the attraction force test to find as to whether some errors might be present in the anchor were made. According to the back analysis, it was turned out that the value with soil parameter 90% that was applied to the original design was pertinent. In the redesign, the permissible stress in the anchor body was changed from 306 kN to 591 kN and 784 kN and the fixation position was increased from 11.0 m to 23.0 m. Nevertheless, five months have passed since the exchange of the anchor, the measurement results validate that stable state has been maintained. This research is considered a case that the immediate maintenance helps prevent the slope accidents.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.874-885
• /
• 2013

This study analyzes the visage in fashion illustration based on the deconstructed visage of Francis Bacon's paintings as well as analyzes fashion illustration works since 2000. The deconstructed visages in Francis Bacon's paintings are classified as blurring, elimination, distortion and division. The expressive methods and meanings in fashion illustration (according to categorization) are as follow. Blurring shows an ambiguous visage organ by the sweeping of the brush, removal of a boundary among the visage, body and clothes, gradation of organic line like visage shapes, stretching of the a plat combined to visage and fragmentation of visage. It represents an uncertainty of the fashion theme and image interpretation, impossibility of figure by ambiguity, fantastic effect and the induction of the uncanny. Elimination shows the background color's painting of a photo-montage, overlap of a cutting of visage's part and background of a plat, elimination of the visage and the elimination of eyes, nose or lips. It represents a weakened identity, the reinforcement of anonymity, creation of a violent image, and uncanny unfamiliarity. Distortion shows a distorted visage by free drawing, and unconscious drawing line, fluid digital body, combination of an unconscious curve, and an eccentric combination of the accidental. It represents the relief of specialty about realistic existence, hypothetical immateriality and fantasy. Division shows overlapped visages with different angles, the weird combination of a plural visage and different species and a plural breakaway of direction, and the position of several organs. It represents motion by power's trace, non-territory of species, ambiguity and uncertainty and the uncanny.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
• /
• v.29 no.4 s.235
• /
• pp.534-539
• /
• 2005

Nodal displacements are referred to the initial configuration in the total Lagrangian formulation and to the last converged configuration in the updated Lagrangian furmulation. This research proposes a relative nodal displacement method to represent the position and orientation for a node in truss structures. Since the proposed method measures the relative nodal displacements relative to its adjacent nodal reference frame, they are still small for a truss structure undergoing large deformations for the small size elements. As a consequence, element formulations developed under the small deformation assumption are still valid for structures undergoing large deformations, which significantly simplifies the equations of equilibrium. A structural system is represented by a graph to systematically develop the governing equations of equilibrium for general systems. A node and an element are represented by a node and an edge in graph representation, respectively. Closed loops are opened to form a spanning tree by cutting edges. Two computational sequences are defined in the graph representation. One is the forward path sequence that is used to recover the Cartesian nodal displacements from relative nodal displacement sand traverses a graph from the base node towards the terminal nodes. The other is the backward path sequence that is used to recover the nodal forces in the relative coordinate system from the known nodal forces in the absolute coordinate system and traverses from the terminal nodes towards the base node. One open loop and one closed loop structure undergoing large deformations are analyzed to demonstrate the efficiency and validity of the proposed method.

• Proceedings of the KSPS conference
• /
• 1996.10a
• /
• pp.521-528
• /
• 1996

This presentation explores on the perceptual characteristics of the lateral sound /l/ in CV syllables. At initial position we found that /l/ has well marked formant transitions. Then several questions arise: 1) are these formant structures dependent on the following vowel\ulcorner. 2) Are the formant transitions giving an additional cue for the identification\ulcorner Considering that the French vocalic system presents a greater variety of vowels than Spanish, several experiments were designed to verify to what extent a more extensive range of vocalic timbres contribute to the perception of /l/. Natural emissions of /l/ produced in Argentine Spanish and Canadian French CV syllables were recorded, where V was successively /i, e, a, o, u/ for Spanish and /i, e, $\varepsilon$, a, $\alpha$, o, u, y, \phi$/ for French. For each item, the segment C was maintained and V was replaced by cutting & splicing by each of the remaining vowels without transitions. Results of the identification tests for Spanish show that natural /l/ segments with low Fl and high formants F3, F4 can be clearly identified in the /i, e, u/ vowel contexts without transitions. For French subjects the combination of /l/ with a vowel without transitions reflected correct identifications for its own original vowel context in /e, $\varepsilon$, y, $\phi$/. For both languages, in all these combinations, F1 values remained rather steady along the syllable. In the case of /o, u/ very likely the F2 difference lead to a variety of perceptions of the original /l/. For example in Ilul, French subjects reported some identifications of /l/ as a vowel, mainly /y/. Our observations reinforce the importance of F1 as a relevant cue for /l/, and the incidence of the relative distance between formants frequencies of both components.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.1019-1034
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers B
• /
• v.36 no.12
• /
• pp.1171-1176
• /
• 2012

The selective patterning of a carbon nanotube (CNT) forest on a Si substrate has been performed using a femtosecond laser. The high shock wave generated by the femtosecond laser effectively removed the CNTs without damage to the Si substrate. This process has many advantages because it is performed without chemicals and can be easily applied to large-area patterning. The CNTs grown by plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (PECVD) have a catalyst cap at the end of the nanotube owing to the tip-growth mode mechanism. For the application of an electron emission and biosensor probe, the catalyst cap is usually removed chemically, which damages the surface of the CNT wall. Precise control of the femtosecond laser power and focal position could solve this problem. Furthermore, selective CNT cutting using a femtosecond laser is also possible without any phase change in the CNTs, which is usually observed in the focused ion beam irradiation of CNTs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.72-86
• /
• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Technology of Plasticity Conference
• /
• 2003.08a
• /
• pp.29-34
• /
• 2003

In order to study the shearing characteristics of anti-vibration sheet metal which has been bonded by resin, a blanking die of 40.02mm was manufactured to blank a material and it is used to reduce vibrational noise. The variables employed in this study were 1) Clearance 2) types of stripper plate, and 3) types of the die design technique. These variables were used to study the effects on burr height, diameter of product, and camber height. Lastly, the effect of the position of the rubber during blanking was observed. In the case of burr height from experimental investigation, the push-back die, combined with a movable stripper plate, resulted in the concentration of additional pressure between the cutting edges, meaning the crack initiation was delayed. This result was not affected by lubrication, although appropriate lubrication is preferred to enable a longer lasting die in terms of wear, which results from the presence of adhesive as the sheet metal is blanked. In the comparison of diameter measurement, the push-back die, combined with the back pressure from the knock-out plate showed a favorable precision. The use of the push back die with a fixed stripper plate, with a $4.5\%$ clearance, showed better accuracy in the diameter measurement. For comparing camber height, the push back die resulted in less cambering than the drop-through die. Also, the larger the clearance, the greater was the camber height. Considering experimental results, the shearing of anti-vibrational sheet metal is best achieved when the rubber is laying on the top, blanked with a fixed-stripper plate in a push-back die, with a $4.5\%$ clearance.

• Journal of Haehwa Medicine
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.133-148
• /
• 2001

From this book, $\ll$GeumGueyoryak Hakbyeongmaekjeungbyeongchi$\gg$, I finally got these conclusions of symptoms and pathology of Hakbyeong. 1. Hakbyeong has main symptoms of repetition of chillness and fever and its main pulse is pulse of Hyeon(弦) and position is in the middle of inside and outside. 2. Change in shape of pulse caused by Hakbyeong can have shape of pulse of Sak(數), Jee(遲), Kin(緊), Dae(大) and more kinds depending on patients constitution, the cause of disease, or whether he/she has been poisoned by other kinds. 3. After 15 days of symptoms, As Cheonki(天氣) and Inki(人氣) get stronger and Saki(邪氣) gets weaker, Jeongki(正氣) can be more recovered and the diseases can be disappeared. But if the disease dose not get away after another 15 days of showing symptom, that disease can be treated as cutting the Jingha under side of him/her. 4. The type of Hakbyeong which is diseased by the keeping the Haksa for long time, can be classified as Hagmo which has symptoms of chillness and fever outside, and of Jinggha inside, Danhag which has symptoms of difficulty with breathing, chest discomfort - caused by fever in the lung at ordinary times -, fever of extremities and nausea and that would make people worn out and thin after all, Onhag which has main symptoms of fever and Mohag which has symptoms of less fever and more chillness. 5. In this thesis it has been described, the Byulgabjunhwan(鼈甲煎丸), Baekhogagaejitang(白虎加桂枝湯), and Chokchilsan(蜀漆散) is the respective prescription for treatment of Hagmo, Onhag, and Mohag. From this conclusion, if the more research about the cause of disease, pathology and prescription of the each symptom from GeumGueyoryak hereafter, I could say more effective prophylaxis and treatment of epidemic disease like todays Hakbyeong can be found.