Selective laser melting (SLM), one of the most widely used powder bed fusion (PBF) additive manufacturing (AM) technology, enables the fabrication of customized metallic parts with complex geometry by layer-by-layer fashion. However, SLM inherently poses several problems such as the discontinuities in the molten track and the steep temperature gradient resulting in a high degree of residual stress. To avoid such defects, thisstudy proposes a temperature thread multiscale model of SLM for the evaluation of the process at different scales. In microscale melt pool analysis, the laser beam parameters were evaluated based on the predicted melt pool morphology to check for lack-of-fusion or keyhole defects. The analysis results at microscale were then used to build an equivalent body heat flux model to obtain the residual stress distribution and the part distortions at the macroscale (part level). To identify the source of uneven heat dissipation, a liquid lifetime contour at macroscale was investigated. The predicted distortion was also experimentally validated showing a good agreement with the experimental measurement.
The need for customized products has also been increasing as more active consumers consume according to their values in recent years. Accordingly, fashion customizing web is becoming popular, but because custom freedom is low, we want to increase custom freedom by applying knitwear. To this end, a theoretical review was conducted through prior research and literature research on customization, knit design, and GUI, and based on this, a case analysis was conducted focusing on knit-making programs and fashion customizing web. Knit designs have more considerations than other fashion design process, resulting in more UIs, so users should use visual elements that are easily recognizable. Therefore, a draft assessment item was derived based on the preceding survey and three Delphi surveys were conducted on experts based on the draft. Each item was modified and deleted during the Delphi research process to produce the Custom Knitware Web GUI Design Guide. Through this study, we were able to identify the need for intuitive understanding and application of knit custom functions in GUI design of custom knitwear web. Through this research, it is expected that this data will be used to improve the usability of custom knitwear websites and to refer to knit design fields that utilize knit machines.
The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.
Modern men are much more interested in their appearance than ever before, as well as showing an increased need for uniqueness in order to construct their own sphere and pursue differentiation from others. Besides, changes in life style and the aesthetic sense are causing men to pursue various kinds of clothing benefits so that they want a suit with characteristics beyond the stereotyped design and style. They have started to be actively engaged in clothing purchases, forming a driving force for the growth of the male suit market. Hence, this study has significance in that it offers data conducive to consumers' custom suit purchase by reviewing data on the present condition of the custom suit market and bespoke suits. In addition, it aims to give a summary on the theoretical bases of preceding studies, including the need for uniqueness, pursuit of clothing benefit and concern for the appearance of male consumers, as well as examining the factors that influence on their bespoke suit purchase intentions. Accordingly, this work intends to construct a basic environment for consumers to approach the custom suit market easily and pave the way for male suit markets through offering marketing data and information that is helpful for custom suit-related markets.
The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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v.3
no.4
/
pp.137-144
/
2017
The purpose of this study is to examine the effectiveness of Customer Relationship Management (CRM) factors in the Supply Chain Management (SCM) context focusing on ashion apparel company. Especially, this study reveals whether a long term relationship is beneficial for all businesses regardless of negotiation power leverage. To this end, the mixed research methods that combined qualitative and quantitative approaches were conducted. The findings of this study are as follows: First, the research model which is CRMs for interactive relationship building were developed. Second, cause-and-effect relationships in the proposed model were partially supported depending on CRMs. The most effective CRMs offered are a guarantee of sales and a special discount. Customized products and quality, convenience, competitive pricing, and development of a product/system/service were effective to ultimately increase a switching cost.
The purpose of this study was to develop a customized wrist brace using 3D scanner and 3D printer. This study included in-depth interviews with people who had wrist pain and ever used wrist braces. The wrist brace has been designed and modeled by the CAD program after 3D scanning the wrist of subjects. Based on the results of the in-depth interviews on wrist brace users and design investigation in the market, a prototype of the wrist brace has been created. The wrist brace does not compress the hand and is easy to put on. In addition, it is adjustable to the wrist of users, allowing them to move his or her wrist without any restrictions. A computer-modeling program produced solid files for the design of the wrist brace after 3D scanning ten subjects' hands. It features a lattice-patterned surface, a velcro adjustment and trimming to smoothen the surface. PLA filaments were used to 3D print the wrist brace. As for the assessment, the wrist brace has been evaluated to be easy to put on and adjust to user's wrist. However, when it comes to appearance and comfortability, it was rated 3.0 or slightly above. This is because 3D printing materials are firm and not flexible compared to other materials such as neoprene or stretchable bands.
Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.
This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.
Quick Response based Mass-Customization can be produced and distributed customized goods and services on mass basis in apparel e-business. Because consumers cannot touch and feel the apparel products in e-business, they tend to have the negative buying behavior. The purposes of this study were to analyze factors of texture image, and to investigate the differences of consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products based on different marketing channels (on-line/off-line). Two types of questionnaires for on-line and off-line were used to assess consumer sensibility on apparel fabric. The 8 swatches were selected based on the previous literatures. 202 returned questionnaires for each type (on-line/off-line) were analyzed by t-test, mean and standard deviation with SPSS 10.0. The result of this study was showed that there were partially significant differences on consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products between on-line and off-line. In case of corduroy, consumers perceived more high-class image under on-line than off-line. In case of taffeta, consumers perceived more thin and dense image under off-line (traditional marketing channel) than on-line (e-commerce). In case of denim, consumers perceived more thin and natural image under off-line than online. In case of organza, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of satin, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of chiffon, consumers perceived denser image under on-line than off-line. In case of velvet, consumers perceived thinner image, higher-class image, and more natural image of texture sensibility under on-line than off-line. In case of single jersey, consumers perceived higher-class image, and denser image of texture under on-line than off-line.
Lee, Jeong sun;Koh, Ae-Ran;Ryu, Lim jeong;Hwang, Ye rin;Lee, Jee hyun
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.43
no.4
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pp.579-591
/
2019
This research investigated the needs analysis on consumers of fine dust masks to effectively develop a design prototype. Data were collected through focus group interviews on 32 individuals who have used fine dust masks. As a result, there is a new demand by consumers for technology based design changes that better fit the nose and face. Consumers preferred the smell and feel of traditional Korean paper. Young adults expressed the importance of masks that can be used for protection as well as fashion. The prototype improved the drawbacks of existing models using an origami-inspired design in a variety of colors, patterns and in sizes that are customized to fit the wearer. The proposed prototype is made of Dak felt fibers and jersey materials. It is characterized by downward-facing ear bands made of polyurethane to improve the fit around the ears and chin to more effectively block incoming air. The mask is foldable and has a crease that goes along the chin to increase the amount of enclosed space against the face making it easier to breathe compared to existing mask designs.
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