• 비교문화연구
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• 제44권
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• pp.239-281
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• 2016

이 글은 20세기 초 러시아와 21세기 초 한국에 미래파가 존재했다는 사실에 주목하여 두 미래파의 탄생과 소멸 과정 전체를 조망하고 각국의 미래파 현상에 내재한 특수성을 일별함으로써 미래파의 운명에 대해 숙고하는 것을 목표로 한다. 본론의 1장에서는 20세기 혁명 이전의 유토피아즘 시대에 등장한 러시아 미래파의 여러 그룹, 즉 '자아미래파(эго-футуризм)', '입체미래파(кубо-футуризм)', '원심분리기(Центрифуга)', '시의 다락방(Мезонин поэзии)' 등의 탄생과 소멸 과정을 살펴본다. 또한 러시아 미래파를 대표하는 '입체미래파'가 오페라 "태양에 대한 승리"(1913)를 통해 어떻게 자신들의 '자움' 기획을 정점으로 끌어올렸으며 동시에 그 지점에서 어떻게 태생적 한계점을 노출할 수밖에 없었는지를 언어(크루쵸니흐), 음악(마츄신), 무대 장치 및 의상(말레비치) 차원에서 추적해본다. 본론 2장에서는 21세기 탈유토피아즘 시대의 한국에서 어떻게 '미래파'가 국문학사에 기록될 수 있었는지를 통시적으로 살펴본다. 한국 내 '미래파'는 '미래파'로 평가받는 황병승 등 실험주의 경향의 시인들에 의해 자발적으로 탄생한 것이 아니라 비평가 권혁웅에 의한 명명화 및 유형화 작업의 소산이라는 특수성을 지니게 된다. 그리고 이러한 특수성으로 인해 빚어진 소위 '미래파'를 둘러싼 격렬한 찬반 비평 논쟁에 비추어 시와 비평의 올바른 관계에 대해 논의한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2022

This study analyzed how Kruchenikh's opera, "Victory over the Sun", performed in Saint Petersburg, Russia, in 1913, contributed to the birth of Malevich's Suprematism in 1915, and how the forms and features of the costumes were expressed in the opera's content. The results of the study are as follows: First, the theoretical background of the opera, "Victory over the Sun" was limited to Suprematism and non-objective art, which was divided into analytical cubism, cubo-futurism, and Uspensky's four-dimensional concept of space. Second, to reveal that Suprematism, appeared in the form of non-objective abstract art, was possible with the set and costume design of "Victory over the Sun," the set design was analyzed. Third, to reveal that Malevich's Suprematism was influenced by "Victory over the Sun," the study considered the characteristics of Suprematism in "Victory over the Sun". Finally, Malevich's Suprematism art costumes expressed in "Victory over the Sun" were divided into geometric spatial structures, images of black & white, mechanical human images, and images of warriors and the characteristics of each costume were considered. Malevich's "Victory over the Sun" showed a significant impact not only on the birth of Suprematism but also on the development of the non-objective art & costumes.