• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.38
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• pp.297-347
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• 2019

Jie Jie Hao Yin 『절절호음(節節好音)』 is a script collection produced during the Qianlong's ruling Period which had one of the most flourished period of Qing Dynasty's Palace Drama. This script collection is consisted of 86 scripts of 6 Festival Court Plays: New year's day (元旦), Lantern festival(上元), Yanjiu festival(燕九), Snow appreciation(賞雪), Day of Kitchen god worshipping(祀竈), New year's eve(除夕). These scripts are effective records to study the New Year's Eve Drama of Qianlong Period. Jie Jie Hao Yin carry out the performances not only through Kunqiang (崑腔), and Yiyang Tune (弋腔), but also through various types of entertaining performances such as dance, masque play, puppet show, and story telling. Most of the songs were sung by various gods praising the era of peace as the holiday approaches. In the contents of revealing the luck to be brought by the holidays, it sought for the colorful transformations of stages through adding humoristique short stories or various feast genres in between the performance. It also tries to seek for diversities of stages through active application of acrobatics. It also portrays folk customs from BaiYunGuan's temple fair, Yanjiu Festival in YanBin, the Lantern Fair of Lantern Festival, and various activities of wet markets from New Year's Eve from diverse points of views. Especially through various shows and Chinese folk-art forms, the popular folk activities and entertainments near Beijing in the beginning era of Qing Dynasty can be observed. Jie Jie Hao Yin is a very important resource to look at the popular art activities of Beijing during Qianlong Period, and how the Palace culture accepted the folk cultures and applied to its own advancements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.37-50
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• 1998

The goal of this suudy is to investigate the production and distribution of silk fabrics of the CHO-SUN Era. My conclusions culture was advanced as a result of its promotion by government authorities. It proceeded from south to north, and spread all over the country. The north became the center of the silkworm culture since cotton was cultivated in the south. Second, the production of silk fabrics proceeded by government orders at the beginning. But it proceeded by private enterprise at a later period. Since government-managed textile handicrafts began falling off during the 16th century, privately managed handicrafts were accomplished slowly. Third, at the same time as the introduction of natural cotton fabrics, the production of various fabrics in the CHO-SUN Era proceeded all over the country, and special production localities-formed. PYUNGAN-DO(평안도), HAMKYOUN-DO(함경도), HOANG HAE-DO(황해도), and KYUNG SANG-DO (경상도) were the main region of silk fabric production. Fourth, the silk fabrics were distributed through the capital markets and the province markets. And superior silk fabrics were distri-buted through the capital markets. And all sorts of low quality silks JU were distributed through the province market. Fifth, thus an abundance of superior silk fabrics was distributed in the CHO-SUN Era. But thequantity of production was not enough. And most of it was used in the Royal Court. The quantity of shortage was supplied by imports.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.147-163
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• 2011

King Jeong-jo (正祖) was the 22nd king of Joseon dynasty (朝鮮王朝), who led the golden age of Korean culture during his ruling. This study is on the burial dressing of King Jeong-jo based on the publications during his ruling; such as "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)", "Chungwan Tonggo (春官通考)", Jeong-jo "Gukjang Dogam Euigwe (國葬都監儀軌)", "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe (正祖殯殿魂殿都監儀軌)" and "Jeong-jo Sillok (正祖實錄)", "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)" was published in 1758. It compiled the funeral protocols of royal court, complementing the shortcomings of protocol documents published till then. "Chungwan Tonggo" was published in 1788, compiling all the protocols and customs practiced during Joseon dynasty in an organized manner. "Jeong-jo Gukjang Dogam Euigwe" and "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe", record the burial dressing and the state funeral of King Jeong-jo in detail based on the contents of above protocol publications. In addition, the 'Daeryeom Euidae ', 'Soryeom Euidae', 'Seup Euidae' and 'Mokyok Euidae' that had been actually practiced were studied in detail based on the records in June/July, 1800 in Book 54 'Jeong-jo' of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. The timing of King Jeong-jo's state funeral was when the most elaborated and complete protocol books of Joseon dynasty had been published. Therefore, it was possible to explore the solemn and magnificent funeral culture and King's burial dressing in late Joseon dynasty by way of King Jeong-jo's burial dressing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.79-94
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• 2004

The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

This study examined the prevalence of the traditional fruit preserve, gwapyeon, recorded in 10 royal palace studies and 10 old literature reports on the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). A total of 62 papers presented the Gwapyeon kind in the documents of the Joseon dynasty. The protocols of the court of the Joseon Dynasty and old literature discussed the Gwapyeon as follows: Nokmalbyeong (ohmijapyeon) 22.5%; aengdupyeon (櫻桃片) 14.5%; salgupyeon (杏) and bokbunjapyeon (覆盆子) at 11.3% each; beojjipyeon and mogwapyeon (木瓜) at 8.1% each; sansapyeon (山査) and chijapyeon at 6.5% each; duchungpyeon (杜沖) 4.8%; and deuljjukpyeon, saenggangpyeon (薑), daechupyeon (棗) and yujapyeon (柚子) at 1.6% each. From "Junghae-Jungraeeuigwe (丁亥整禮儀軌)" (1827) to "Junghae-Jinchaneuigwe (丁亥進饌儀軌)" (1887) called nokmalbyeong (菉末餠). "Sinchuk-Jinchaneuigwe (辛丑進饌儀軌)" (May 1901) renamed the ohmijabyeong (五味子餠). "Sinchuk-Jinyeoneuigwe (辛丑進宴儀軌)" (July 1901), the assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果 ) were included in the ohmijabyeong. "Imin-Jinchaneuigwe (壬寅進饌儀軌)" (April 1902), The ohmijabyeong (五味子餠) and assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果) was used and a mixture of "Imin-Jinyeoneuigwe (壬寅進宴儀軌)" (November 1902) included the assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.296-312
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• 2015

This study conducted a literature review, field study, and in-depth interview on the build order, cooking method, and origin of 'Donggot-tteok (rice cake)', which was the ritual food for 'Chungjae Gwon Beol from the Andong Gwon clan Jong-ga' in Bonghwa, Gyeongbuk, who deifies Chungjae Gwon Beol as Bulcheonwi. Donggot-tteok of Chungjae Jong-ga is classified as one kind of Bonpyeon (Janjeolpyeon) and 11 kinds of Utgipyeon, and assumes a unique circle build shape. According to the results of the literature review data in 2004 and 2010 with field study data in 2014, the build order, materials, and cooking method were maintained without large changes. With regard to Utgipyeon with which Donggot-tteok is topped, Cheongjeolpyeon, Milbiji, Songgisongpyeon, Gyeongdan, Ssukdanja, Bupyeon, Japgwapyeon, Jeon, Sansim, Jo-ak, and Kkaeguri were heaped in each layer, and the beauty of obangsaek (five colors) was well harmonized. Besides, with regard to the origin of Donggot-tteok, which was presented without elaborating sundry records, we examined the possibility of being introduced from the royal court through old paper and the Jokbo (family tree) that Jong-ga owns.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.22
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• pp.51-72
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• 2011

The economic decline coincided with the crooked political path of Spanish monarchy that has been on an almost permanent state of war. The Spanish empire was divided and consequently, general impoverishment spread throughout the whole country quickly. Nevertheless Spanish culture reached the climax, especially in the field of painting. Spanish paintings of 17th century are basically religious based on concept of Baroque, whose theme is usually the immaculate conception or mysterious figures of saints. Velaquez, Mrillo, and Ribera are the main painters who represented the trend of this time. Despite having fame as religious court painters, they painted subjects from low society such as beggars in rags, dwarves, jesters, or the poor child. They reflected an optimistic expression and an awe for human being in their paintings greatly. In this paper, we are dealing with three main representative painters of Baroque era whose theme was a picaresque character. This character was one of the axes that coexisted with royals and nobles in 17th century of Spain. The art works that are dealt in this paper serve as materials for historial values and through them we can observe the atmosphere of decline that dominated Spain of the time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.1-25
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• 2023

Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs are relatively well preserved among Sassanid relics. They are considered concrete and empirically important materials for studying Sassanian culture. In these rock reliefs, inauguration of various kings and hunting scenes are depicted. Thus, kings' attire and life of the court could be discerned according to eras. The purpose of this study was to investigate Sassanian clothing styles of various social positions by analyzing their clothing depicted in rock reliefs and to improve comprehension of the culture of the Sassanian Dynasty. Methodically, literature studies and artifacts were analyzed in parallel. Data of these two insources were consolidated for comparison. Results of this study are as follows. Since the Sassanian Dynasty succeeded the Parthian Dynasty, the Parthian style of clothing pieces such as tunic and trousers appeared in their attire. Basic types of tunics and trousers did not vary according to social status or age. However, details showed differences in those aspects. In the early Sassanian Dynasty, the dressing style of Rome was adopted. Styles of tunic and trousers featured draperies with many wrinkles and shoes were worn instead of boots. Trousers were tied with laces at ankles and laces were decorated with round clasps, imitating the style used by Kushan kings to the east of Sasanians. External cultural elements were also present in costumes of the Sassanian Dynasty, which played a bridging role for cultural exchanges between Eastern and Western civilizations at the gateway of the Silk Road.

• Korean journal of communication and information
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• v.19
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• pp.265-294
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to explore the way in which the internet audience constitutes cyber culture by analysing a bulletin board system(BBS) on a historical drama, 'The World of Women'(SBS). Research findings show that the internee audience participates in a cyber space by five manners; personal participation(18.9%), critique of broadcaster's policy(11.3%), participation in a television drama community(42.1%), co-authorship(6.4%), evaluation and interpretation(21.3%). Through these kinds of participant activities, the internee audience tends to constitute a new cyber culture. Firstly, the audience seems to read 'The World of Women' by a specific way. It is the interest of a Um court lady that is characteristic on BBS of 'The World of Women'. Secondly, the internet audience constructs a new community of meaning by means of using emoticon(emotion and icon), deconstructing grammar, and remaking new signs. Thirdly, the internet audience argues their power over drama production, in other words, their ownership over the drama. Fouthly, the audience actively protests and criticise the policy of the broadcaster, especially charged service. Finally, the internet audience is likely to enjoy writing itself as a fun.