• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.19-34
• /
• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.123-128
• /
• 2006

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ $50{\pm}3%$RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from $33.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$ for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was $0.5{\sim}0.7^{\circ}C$ maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher $0.2{\sim}0.5^{\circ}C$ than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.197-206
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.3 s.88
• /
• pp.49-58
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.3
• /
• pp.79-92
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.674-696
• /
• 2011

Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.39 no.1
• /
• pp.56-61
• /
• 1997

The silk fibroin solution was prepared and applied to the surface of fabrics for the purpose of weighting as well as a surface modification. The water-soluble fibroin solution can be obtained by dissolving the cocoon fibroin in a boiling solution of 50% calcium chloride for 60 minutes. For the fixation of a water soluble fibroin onto the fabric surface, the various methods were investigated. The fixation can be achieved on a silk fabric by the after treatment with ethanol, stannous choride and methacrylamide. On the other hand, the epichlorhydrin compound is the most promising fixation agent for a cotton fabric. As a result of the examination of property changes, the softness and crease recovery were lessened for a silk crepe fabric by treating with 1-2% fibroin solution, while those properties were improved for a silk knit fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.270-282
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2017

In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.460-464
• /
• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.