• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.18-26
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• 2006

In this study, the effects of chitosan pre-treatment on the mordanting effect and dyeability were investigated in the dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree. The chitosan treatment effects were evaluated mainly focused on the colors after dyeing of cotton and nylon fabrics which were treated with acidic aqueous solution of chitosan. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics, the mordanting effects on the cotton and nylon were insignificant and the dyeability was very low. Regardless of the mordant types(Al, Sn, and Fe), the dyed fabrics exhibited almost identical yellowish colors. In the case of chitosan treated fabrics, dark colors were obtained compared to the case of chitosan untreated and ${\Delta}E$ values were increased significantly. In cotton fabrics, the most excellent result was obtained under the condition of unmordanted and chitosan treated fabrics. This verifies the fact that routin coloring matters establish direct linkages with the chitosan components, which exhibit cationic nature, easily. In nylon fabrics, the effects of mordanting treatment and chitosan treatment are so insignificant that the routin coloring matters are presumed to establish direct dyeing with the nylon molecular chains.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.509-514
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• 2019

Cotton fabrics were treated with gelatin to enhance dyeability and color strength when using Caesalpinia sappan dye. Gelatin was used as the protein and a pad-dry- cure method was used for the treatment process (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14g/l concentration). Pretreated fabrics were mordanted with 10% alum. Fabrics were then dyed with freeze-dried sappan wood water extract powder form. Dyed samples were assessed in regards to dyeing behavior and color fastness. Comparing untreated and gelatin treated samples from the SEM images indicated that the Gelatin treatment (10g/l) resulted in an enhanced surface roughness that was relative to that of untreated cotton. Padding cotton with gelatin at 6g/l concentration afforded dyed fabrics with a 2 times increase in the K/S value over that of untreated fabrics. All dyed samples were red color with a significant enhancement in the sample color strength (K/S) being observed for pretreated samples. pH values favor dye absorption with pH 7 yielding the highest color strength. Dyeing at an elevated temperature resulted in a lower color strength and reddish-dull color. Longer dyeing times created greater color strengths for untreated and gelatin treated cotton. Increased dye concentrations resulted in higher K/S values for both gelatin treated and untreated cotton. As for color fastness, gelatin treated and untreated cotton fabrics dyed with sappan wood extract showed a relatively low rating in washing fastness (color change 1 rating), light fastness (1 rating), and rubbing fastness (wet:1-2, dry:3-4 rating).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1401-1411
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• 2002

To Save energy and cost one bath/one step dyeing and finishing on cotton/polyester blends is carried out with disperse dyes in the presence of crosslinking agent. Cotton 100 %, cotton/polyester 70/30, 50/50, 35/65, polyester 100 % fabrics were used. wrinkle recovery angle, tensile strength retention and tearing strength retention were determined in according to the dyebath composition, and also determined while the concentration of DMDHEU, molecular weight and concentration of PEG were varied. Colorfastness to abrasion, washing and light were tested. For cotton and cotton/polyester blends dyed in the presence of DMDHEU/PEG, wrinkle recovery was improved. Tensile strength retention and tearing strength retention were decreased, in compared with dyed fabrics without DMDHEU. Colorfastness to abrasion was good but colorfastness to washing and to light were poor for the fabrics dyed in the presence of DMDHEU/PEG.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.17-23
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• 2003

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.77-77
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1078-1084
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics were treated with 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to impart durable press performance, which is formaldehyde-free DP finishing reagent. The pore structures of BTCA treated cottons were compared using a reverse gel permeation chromatographic technique(reverse GPC). A series consisting 4 kinds of water soluble sugars was used to study the elution characteristics of columns prepared from cotton fibers. From these data, differences in pore size distribution in the control and BTCA treated cottons were distinguished. BTCA crosslinks cellulose molecules provided wrinkle resistance to the treated cotton fabrics through ester linkages. Although crosslinking of cotton with BTCA reduced accessible internal volume across the entire range of pore size, differences in line pores were larger than in small pores. BTCA treated cotton exhibited reductions over 40% in large pore sizes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.397-404
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective sensations and preference for spring/fall casual cotton shirt fabrics, and to assist in developing shirt fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. The subjects of this study were male and female college students who assessed the tactile sensation of seven types of spring/fall shirt fabrics available on the market: plain weave and rib weave made of cotton and that of cotton mixed fabrics. The subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 23, who were residing in the city of Cheongju, Korea. The questionnaires related to the fabrics hand were evaluated using a nine point bi-polar scale of 9 descriptive terms. Mean, t-test, F-test and $X^2$ were used for data analysis. The fabric hand evaluation on the seven types of shirts showed a significant difference in all of the 9 descriptive terms. There were partially significant differences in the subjective sensations according to fabric characteristics regarding shirt fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. In particular, female students responded with more sensitivity to the sensation of dense and wrinkle sensations. There were significant differences in the purchase preference according to gender regarding casual shirt fabrics. Plain weave fabrics made of cotton was most preferred among male students, whereas rib weave fabrics made of cotton/polyester was most preferred among female students.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.57-66
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• 2003

Cochineal dyeing was applied to natural fiber fabrics, cotton and silk fabrics, and synthetic fiber fabrics, nylon and polyester fabrics. Chitosan-pretreatment was applied to the fabrics in order to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing behavior. The effect of chitosan treatment on the mordanting was also investigated by incorporating Cu-mordant on the chitosan-treated or chitosan-untreated fabrics during the dyeing process.