• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.239-259
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• 1996

This research is to observe background of origination and process of changing style for men's suits and also to observe the root of aes-thetics which has made the changing style be maintained for nearly 200 years. The aesthetic characteristics are 1)The revival of the Neo-Classicism beauty in the 18th century could be regarded as the root of incipient style of the modern men's suits design. And the cutters recreated ancient nude hero which was an object of envy at that time and also reproduced men's suits through modifying the existed suits to make the ancientnude conform with the sewing regulations in order to describe and convey the perfect image of gender,. 2) The cutter who pursued merit of the classicismic aesthetics in the late 18th cen-tury artistically upgraded English rough country coat to keep pace with Nordic coat style of netherland Russia Germany while in constrast with the coat style mode which was in fashion in France and Italy then And also they changed the English country coat to a noble natural clothing structure in relation to ancient sculpture to keep the English tradition. 3) Im the 18th century Neo-Classicism art emphasized transparent and monochromatic beauty and thus color was limitedly used. In the use of the limited color however ancient aesthetical simple purity was well described within the more realistic outline. In those days the cutter who admired the English neo-Classicism removed color-luster and preferred colorless finished dimly and transparently. And thus color of the men's suits become to be also dim colored in los brightness. This means that it did not express pure beauty but brought such effect of the Classicism beauty that the nude itself was figured out.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.192-208
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• 2016

Due to the paradigm shift in fashion industry, its contribution to social activities and social enterprises' practice of ethical fashion has been on the rise lately. The surveillance and regulations of international community have increased in light of the betterment of working conditions and protection of the rights, and corporate social responsibility has been emphasized through consumers' interest in ethical consumption. In this regard, the fashion social enterprises' responsible and ethical management can both boost the trust in business and value-added. The study aims to propose feasible methods by exploring ways to induce support from central and local governments, which will lead to the activation of future fashion social enterprises and paradigms shift of consumers's perception and value. The sustainability of social enterprises requires management line or policies that consider social, environmental, economic, and political aspects of virtuous cycle, differentiated internally or externally. Fashion social enterprises also need ethic management and social responsibility management that are distinctive from general fashion enterprises. Thus, they will not be sustainable or differentiated unless entrepreneurial faith and role is not clear. Education and continuous promotion including upcycling are critical to build consumer base as they can make consumers spend ethically and recognize social enterprises. In addition, social education and public relations need to take place in order to internalize consumer pattern. The goal of sustainable corporate social activity is to change the awareness and become social investment that returns some profits to the society as members in line with reviewing corporate image. This can lead to establishing the foundation of securing a big comsumer market and winning the trust of the consumer's through corporate social responsibility and investment.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2004

This study suggests the popular culture theory as a basic framework to find out the characteristics of contemporary fashion show meeting the popular culture, and describes that the show is the popular culture of this generation. The culture is the way of our life unifying the world at common area of human being. The popular culture is to subdivide it into the public culture that shares aesthetic taste, and to borrow each other and develop it mutually because of the collapse of dichotomous boundary with high quality culture, and to represent the people’s thought and behaviour expanding their areas. The author has examined the characteristics of popular culture of modern fashion show by four collections, that is, commercialism, mass media, political relationship and interaction, etc： Firstly, at the commercialism, the fashion show combines it with other genre organically to do mass production and sales and produces cultural consumption goods supplying a lot of sight-seeing. Secondly, at the mass media, the image of contemporary fashion show has been spread out with mass media such as fashion magazines, cable TV and Internet beyond time and space to produce advertisement effects and makes new fashion and bring democratic culture. Thirdly, at political relationship, the fashion in its peak can make a big stream of wealth, so that it plays important roles under governmental regulations in this era and governments make efforts to support and develop it. Lastly, at interaction, the fashion show shares media functions to let users participate in the program and to exchange information as a feedback to influence each other.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2021

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many people started working from home while avoiding unnecessary going-outs. As the 'stay-at-home life' becomes standard daily life, the pajamas market is absorbing young consumers, especially targeting Generation MZ, by using one-mile fashion that breaks down the boundary with everyday clothes. Also, owing to the demand for environmentally-friendly textiles, based on the strengthened environmental regulations, the development of textiles considering the environment is expanding. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop fashion pajamas using environmentally-friendly textiles targeting Generation MZ. After theoretically considering the current status of recycled PETs and the pajama market by referring to preceding research, relevant books, and Internet data, this study performed the process setting up the design concepts, developing textiles, developing textile designs, and developing pajamas designs. As a result, this study wove two kinds of mixed textiles using recycled PETs and silk with the concept of 'Going out pajamas', and designed a total four patterns to be applied to those textiles, then digitally printed them. Using the developed textiles, this study produced a total four kinds of pajamas that were practical, trendy, and also good to be used as clothes for going-out. The consumers who are exhausted from the limited environment of the COVID-19 pandemic, are requesting comfortable and trendy in & out door fashion. For this reason, the results of this study are significant in the aspect of suggesting the new-normal fashion trend for pajamas designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.287-298
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• 2024

Clothing is intimately intertwined with daily lives as every individual relies on it. The pervasive issue of plagiarism in the fashion industry has led to an increased demand to protect intellectual property rights. Currently, studies on the protection of fashion design intellectual property rights in China remain in the exploratory stage and warrant further investigation. This paper addresses the issue in two parts. The first part contains an analysis of the theoretical foundation for the protection of fashion design copyrights. It is further divided into three subsections. The first subsection primarily examines the concept of copyrights and laws. The second subsection focuses on the concept of fashion design copyrights and laws. The third subsection analyzes copyright laws concerning fashion designs in China. The second section offers an analysis of infringement cases involving fashion designs published during the Baiyi Cup Intellectual Property Case Summary Writing Competition held in China in 2023. It outlines the shortcomings of the current Chinese copyright laws regarding the protection of fashion designs, and proposes measures for improvement. This study argues that the institutional framework for intellectual property rights in the Chinese fashion industry should align with practical considerations and explores suitable legal regulations and how they relate to specific circumstances in China. Besides refining the legal framework, fashion designers and enterprises must take measures to entablish the intellectual property rights of their clothing brands.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1998

As for the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was applied to only populace one-sidedly mainly under the power structure of feudalistic centralization of government like Chosun dynasty, the aspect of taboo was diversified all the more by having relation with various phenomenon of social structure characteristics, and the taboo items to be given in accordance with the flow of time shows the diversity. Especially, the structure of dress and its ornaments in Chosun period showed the side of social position relation and luxury control, and the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was derived from the current thought about China was given frequently. To respect the frugal virtue and moderate the life has relation with the stream of the times in individuals or nations. And, that it is externalized is dress and its ornaments. As the luxury about dress and its ornaments was serious in accordance with times, it appeared by having relation with whole economic question of nations. Then, this researcher thought this by relating this to the culture of customs. This researcher thought that the luxury about clothing gets to go to extremes and the law and order collapses, according as public morals get to be very lax. And, it can be said that the way to be able to control this is that the customs should be thoroughly obeyed and that the system to be able to play the role of braking is taboo. So, this researcher thinks that it is significant to examine the achievement which has contributed toward the life of dress and its ornaments by successive kinds on the basis of a true record of the Vidynasty and other all sorts of literatures about the real situation of prohibition order which has been from the first king to Kojong at the last period of nation. The criticism and taboo about luxury which have been discussed at Chosun period may be subdivided into some kinds in accordance with the subjects. But, in this tests, as it sis the real situation that the case to be due to the lavish necessary articles for marriage which is coming to fore as our social problem nowadays is increasing remarkably, this researcher tries to examine the taboo about the marriage luxury at Chosun period in the order of successive generations. Thus, before examining the taboo of marriage luxury, this researcher tries to examine about the taboo of textile luxury and study the taboo of marriage luxury, as the marriage luxury governs almost everything of textile luxury and it is regarded as the origin of marriage luxury, especially. And, this researcher tries to study as to how was the penal regulations based on it at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.171-182
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• 1996

This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.