• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.121-127
• /
• 2012

When people are asked to described certain textiles, they frequently refer to the expressions of its properties such as attractiveness, uniqueness, shininess, robustness, comfortability, and so on. It shows how senses play important role in it. Human employs their senses when interacting with textiles, most notably visual and tactile/ haptic to absorb its expressive properties. Yet, our sensorial experiences may amplify when interacting with those of traditional textiles, such as batik, as we can entice sensations when seeing its motifs and patterns, smelling its materials, and touching its surfaces. The multi-sensorial importance of seeing, smelling, and touching in the interaction with and experience of textiles suggests that one should address senses in a systematic way when evaluating users' perception on traditional textiles. To address this issue, the paper proposes the incorporation of Kansei Engineering (KE) approach for identifying multi-sensorial experiences on the expressive properties of traditional textiles, using batik as a case of study. KE approach address person's psychological understanding when observing things in order to analyze and study the inherent relationship between person's perceptual knowledge and objects evaluated. This paper outlines the use of KE approach in correlating sensorial perceptions when experience with traditional textiles and ultimately expose users' preferences toward them. Background of KE approach on textiles will be explored and its application for the multi-sensorial investigation of traditional textiles will be discussed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.3
• /
• pp.346-360
• /
• 2023

The pataphysics implemented by digital technology differs from the form of objects in the real world and is used throughout the cultural industry. This study aims to analyze the expression method of pataphysics as applied to modern fashion and derive its impact on the fashion industry. The research analyzes fashion images, shows, films, displays, and e-commerce, since 2016, when pataphysics began to be used in the fashion domain. Pataphysics, created by Alfred Zaire, appeared as an overlapping phenomenon that reflects physical phenomena in the virtual world. The expression method of pataphysics applied to modern fashion was divided into an augmented reality method based on immersion and interaction, a virtual platform-oriented metaverse, and a virtual model expressing a processed self. The influence of pataphysics applied to modern fashion is as follows. In the field of design, pataphysics affects the development of contemplative designs for innovation and creativity. Second, digital technology can expand the role of fashion at the intersection of art and fashion that takes a novel perspective through pataphysics. Third, e-commerce positively affects efficient production and consumption through virtual and economic models. In conclusion, this study's findings are expected to play a positive role in promoting creativity and innovation by introducing new perspectives and ideas into modern fashion through pataphysics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.15-30
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of Hanbok among youngsters based on SNS proof shots, identify new characteristics of Hanbok as part of play and travel rather than as formal Hanbok, and provide information for the Hanbok market. As research methodology, our search was carried out by using '#Hanbok Travel' as the search word in Instagram, where the Hanbok proof shot phenomenon is actively under way. A total of 535 posts from March 21, 2016 to April 1, 2016 were selected as objects of this study, excluding posts containing Hanbok with indiscernible shape, Korean traditional costume manufacturers' promotional posts, and repetitive posts by one person. First, the 535 posts were analyzed by season, region, number of people, and gender, and after men's data were excluded, 644 Hanboks were left for analysis. Their formative characteristics were analyzed by using SPSS 21.0. The results showed that the formative characteristics of Hanbok shown in SNS proof shots included diversification of length in jeogori(Korean traditional jacket), skirt, and sleeve, use of pragmatic material and achromatic color, and reduced use of decorative technique. Hanboks shown in the Hanbok proof shots should be considered as significant data because each shots show clothes selected and worn directly by user's side, unlike the existing studies centering on Hanbok designers' works.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.39
• /
• pp.139-166
• /
• 1998

This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.147-160
• /
• 2012

The costumes as an expression system in film are inserted intentionally for a particular purpose. Costumes in film, namely the cinematic dress code, and that in reality are dissimilar in meaning structure. The costumes in film perform a role of a complicated eye-catcher in correlation with the other filmic factors. But the previous studies on the costumes in film are focused on the keywords 'fashion style', 'fashion trend', or 'PPL (product placement)'. In film studies, however, the costumes should be observed from the point of view as semiosis, not as fashion, in other words, from the angle of symbol, icon and index. And the meaning and the process of the communication, which that produce, should be pointed out. It could expose, that costumes play one of the key roles for the developing of narratives and the creating of characters in film. Therefore, this study's aim is to examine the semiosis of costumes in film and to analyse the dress code, dress plot, and dress message in (1990) by Garry Marshall. But this work does not try to indicate the problems of the film-semiotics or to intensify the concept of the semiotic terminology. Thus, this study attempts to approach the theme of costumes in film from the perspective of the semiosis and its meaning process. With this, it has been proved, that semiotic systems are in hiding beyond the conventional forms of cinematic costumes and its natural harmony with characters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.3
• /
• pp.113-127
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.2
• /
• pp.154-168
• /
• 2009

This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.5
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to know how helmet and armor was reinterpreted in historical play by considering general concept and type of old helmet and armor from the aspect of costume history and comparing the helmet and armor types of TV historical plays, Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasingi, whose historical backgrounds were based on the age of Goguryeo. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun was reinterpreted as the one, which is close to historical investigation, by reappearing lamellar armor and jongjangpanju(helmet made of slim, long plate) shown in Goguryeo wall painting. The helmet and armor type shown in Taewangsasingi expresses fantastic helmet and armor by adding fantastic factor regardless of historical investigation. The study result reveals that there are several common characteristic factors between the helmet and armors of two historical plays. First, there was a classification in the display of character and story. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun classified color and detail design depending on lamellar armor or character. In Taewangsasingi, the helmet and armor was manufactured depending on character's nature and the chain armors, which are lighter than existing helmet and armors, were usual. Second, they escaped from the historical investigation about traditional helmet and armor. In Yeongaesomun, myeonggwangae(a type of armor), which might be popular, was not expressed and Taewangsasingi is free from an imperative idea of historical investigation by manufacturing helmet and armor referring to that of ancient Rome age. The modern sense was reflected to increase dramatic effect. The helmet and armor of Yeongaesomun provides modern feeling by using stainless steel material and modern color arrangement and that of Taewangsasingi is designed in modern, splendid way as it aimed at game development from the planning step.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.149-166
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was illumination of the stage costume by applying the study of a subject of human expression, which establishes identity of dramatic characters. This study was conducted by referring a variety of theses, an extensive national and international literature. The color symbolism that is depicted in Shakespeare‘s work manifests the transition period of old days, which was influenced by the Renaissance and the Religious Reformation. And color preferences and the meanings I attach to them in his play, definitely reveal the Middle Ages Christian way of thinking which was obsessively dominated their mind. I also determine that the color preferences and use in Elizabeth Era also distinctively separate the social status, which were also influenced by its social conditions. Besides this, colors that were depicted in Shakespeare's work also shown many similarities from Italian Commedia dell‘arte, which were in vogue all over the Europe. Customary color symbolisms which from natural color experiences were also applied in "The Tempest". "The Tempest" was presented on the first day of November in 1611 for the first time. Following this, many plays and films have been produced in foreign countries and Korea. With an analysis of "The Tempest", costume designs for Miranda and Ferdinanad were illustrated at the end. The costumes for Miranda and Ferdinand were mainly considered to express pure love and vigorous youth of two lovers, symbolizing the image of the theme love, forgiveness, and reconciliation.