• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.71-87
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• 2007

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.707-720
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• 2004

This study focused on the comparison of the consciousness of middle age women's body image between self evaluation and others'. The respondents include 105 middle age women who evaluated themselves and 532 middle age women who evaluated others in there age group in Gwang-Ju. The Questionnaire was comprised of two components; Part One is consciousness of body-shape and Part Two is body cathexis (or a body preference). For data analysis, SPSS 10.0 program was generally used, and T-test, ANOVA, Scheffe-test were being conducted. The results of study were as follow; On consciousness of body shape, the items that exist difference of opinion on the comparison of the consciousness of middle age women's body-shape between self-evaluation and others' evaluation were total body fatness, upper body type, low arm girth, thigh girth in lean group, and crotch of pants length, ankle girth, calf girth, in normal group, and upper body type, lower body type in obese group. On a body-cathexis, the item were neck, buttocks, bust, posture in lean group(p<.05), and neck, upper arm, abdomen in normal group(p<.01), and waist, abdomen, weight distribution in obese group(p<.01).

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.83-96
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• 1999

The Purpose of this study was to the basic informations about the wearing stagte according to body satisfaction of the middle aged women. For the research method the actual wearing state of the foundation and the degree of body satisfaction were checked by questionaire survey from 350 middle aged women and analyzed 280 sheets. The results were as follows: 1. At the body satisfaction survey the respondent reply lower score about the girth items especially abdominal girth. According to the body shape and age there were meaningful differences. 2. The actual wearing state of the foundation had meaningful differences according to the body shape and age. The most important was about the fit for their bodies. 3. The most important dissatisfaction was about the fit for their bodies. Also there was meaningful differences according to body shape and age. 4. for the result of the feelings of wearing the foundation the feelings of wearing the girdle were more inconvenient than the feelings of wearing the brassiere Also there were meaningful differences according to the body shape and age. older and obeser women feel more inconvenient.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.754-770
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• 2000

The definite objects of this study are as follows ; 1. The study presents concrete objects of the shape of adult women's neck and shoulder after comparing and analyzing the features of five age groups ; the former young age, the latter young age, the former middle age, the latter middle age, the latter middle age and the old age. 2. The study presents concrete objects of adult women's neck and shoulder by the body types ; bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type in order to be examined the body types. The results of this study are as follows ; 1. The shape of neck and shoulder needs the several concrete objects of each types because of the variable factors in size and body types. But the concrete objects of the types referred in five age groups contain all the important factors and enable to design the body suitable clothes. 2. This study shows that generally bend-forward type contains rising shoulder and lean-back type contains drooping shoulder, and straight type contains average value of neck and shoulder. The results of this study developed the body-suitable clothes of bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.20-30
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of European middle class, ethos to costume. This study is concerned with historic situation about enlightment and French revolution, and the change process of costume before and after the French Revolution. In order to investigate the relationship, this studies include the phenomenon of costume in the basis of thoughts of the age (enlightment), political event (French revolution) and social system (middle classes). The Influence of enlightment to costume of man and children were which emphasized practical aspect. Children costume was developed independently from costume of adult before French revolution. French revolution played a roll in silhouette, color, texture of costume for man. Especially pantalons which names Sans-culotte generalized as modern clothing for man. Women freed from corset because of the influence of neo-classicism for a while. However, costume of woman did not change much because women were excluded from of enlightment.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.79-91
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• 2011

This study divided school age by considering a change in the stage of body growth by age in elementary schoolgirls with the use of body scan data, and considered by comparing body size characteristics by school age. Elementary schoolgirls' body shape cannot be divided clearly. However, ages 7-10 were bound into the same group for the majority of girth, width, and thickness items. 7-8 years old, 9-10 years old, and 11-12 years old were bound into the same group in most items except ages 9 and 10 for the height item. Thus, significant difference was indicated between groups. Accordingly, this study divided the school age into three periods such as early stage(ages 7-8), middle stage(ages 9-10), and late stage(ages 11-12) in consideration of the stages for elementary schoolgirls' body-shape growth. As a result of analyzing body size according to division of school age, the higher school age leads to continuous growth. The notable growth was indicated especially in the middle stage and late stage. Examining centering on typical items related to the clothing construction, there was notable increase in waist thickness and hip thickness between early and middle stages and in height, weight, breast girth, waist circumference, back length, breast width, and waist width between middle and late stages. On the other hand, hip circumference, hip width, breast thickness, and length between shoulder edges were indicated to grow relatively and evenly among early, middle, and late stages. The lateral form was shown a clear difference in the forms of early, middle, and late stages in height and length of the whole body shape and in side thickness. The early and middle stages belong to body shape that abdomen is projected to be curved. The late stage showed right body shape which is straight and stable form in posture.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2002

For the purpose of providing basic data for the development of size specifications for middle-aged women in Busan, one dimensional measurements were made with the subjects. ranging 45 to 59 in age. The following are the conclusions : 1) According to ages, the middle and elder groups of the middle-aged women shared similar body types, having shorter height, more lowered bust. and increased upper-body depth and girth factors, compared with the earlier middle-aged women group. But the thigh girth of the elder middle-aged group (age: 55∼59) was the lowest, maybe owing to the aged lower-body muscles. 2) In the comparison with national averages. armhole girth, elbow girth, wrist girth. back waist length, side neck point-B.P.-waist line, and sleeve length showed great differences. This is problematic in that the national size standards fail to reflect each legion\`s peculiar body type characteristics. 3) Even though body types were classified according to drop value criteria suggested by KS specifications, 23.05% did not belong to the criteria. They were thus classified as A, N, and H body types, following the distribution of the present experiment. 4) In consideration of the economy factor of the production and sales of the clothes industry, the combinations of height and chest garth for the middle-aged Busan women were as follows: 155cm-85cm (Body Type A) 150cm-88cm (Body Type N), and 155cm-94cm (Body Type H).