• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.37-51
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.111-125
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• 2006

This study measured and analyzed musical sense objectively, and visualized it to express visual effects as if watching music with the eye. For the visualization of music, we examined the concept of synesthesia and the correlation between hearing and seeing, and reviewed theoretical grounds and a number of cases necessary in reproducing musical sense visually based on synesthetic expression. Furthermore, we studied the visual elements and associated colors of rhythm to prove that visual conception of music through various approaches enable a transitional approach to aesthetic exploration and interpretation. The conclusions drawn from this research are as follows. First, classic music selected for visualization had musical characteristics highly correlated with dress design. Second, basic formative elements suggested as materials of visualization in this study were suitable in their form for expressing the rhythmic sense of music and, because they started from the most basic form, they were effective in extracting design elements. Third, when the result of the questionnaire survey, which was focused on the visualization of the rhythmic sense of the five pieces of classic music, was analyzed from the aspect of sensibility ergonomics, design elements of each piece of music were obtained in an objective and scientific way. Fourth, it was confirmed that common concepts could be derived from intangible elements such as forms and sounds observed in the rhythmic sense of music obtained from the result of the questionnaire survey. Fifth, works were made based on the results of this study and, according to the result, musical images can express sense through dress design and obtain visual effects as if watching music with the eye. Dress desist through the visualization of music in this study was an attempt to suggest that the language of music can be expressed in dress design, a visual formative language, based on synesthetic expression. Through this attempt, we confirmed the infinity of music as motives of dress design and suggested a method of aesthetic expression demanded in contemporary society that is pursuing aesthetic values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. A Study on the Dancer and Musician Costumes by the Murals in Tombs decorate with mural, which is of Liao Dynasty. The tombs belong to two families: eight of them located to the northeast of Xiabali Village belong to the Zhang Family. Another was located to the north of Xiabali Village belong to the Han Family. The bands of the "Sanyue" consist of five to twelve players wearing luxurious dresses(Jamhwasik hwagakBokdu, Danryung, Belt, Boots) and playing miscellaneous musical instruments: sometimes the female ones in the bands are disguised as male. Usually, each band is accompanied with one or a couple of dancers. which one wearing is luxurious dresses (Goge.1amhwasik. Yoo : Jaket : joegori, Sang: skirts: chima, and shoes).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.129-144
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to identify current trends in hip-hop fashion in korea and how they are influenced by musical characteristics of female hip-hop. This study considers the relationship between female hip-hop music and their fashion through the history of hip-hop. Data has been collected and analyzed from broadcastings, performances, music videos, and album jackets of female musicians who appeared in the cable television program 'Unpretty Rapstar' by MNET during two seasons in 2015. "Unpretty Rapstar" is the first program to focus on the music and fashion of female Korean hip-hop musicians. For the theoretical review, this article examines books and journal articles, which provide insight into the history and formation of hip-hop. It also analyzes the hip-hop styles of female musicians in Korea through Hiphopplaya.com, an Internet site specializing in hip-hop. the results of the analysis of the fashion of female Korean hip hop musicians is as follows: The characteristics of the styles of female hip-hop artists come out of Glam Style, which emphasizes femininity, but is also composed of a practical and dynamic street casual style. Most of the clothes are skinny jeans and sweat suits with vertical and slim-fit silhouettes or stadium jackets and jersey jackets with oversized silhouettes. The main colors of these outfits are prominently yellow and red with darker grayish tones, but also include natural achromatic colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.159-176
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• 1994

This study's purpose is to find the ancient costume of the folk song's words on Dunhuang manuscripts in the background wass-carvings sculptures and several art works. Dunhuang had played the part of major route between ancient China and Europe. It is located on kam-suksong the west of China. 1. In the aspect of costume arrangement hair Styling is represented by Naegagyo, Wangyesa, Kyongburak, Bonkwyun, Pogurak, Chonsonja, Namgaja, Tongson-ga, Ojesa, Chanboja in Dunhuang manuscripts. tugue is sim-ilar to Sabyokkwanja in Naegagyo as of that time these kinds of Kwan-ja was very popular. It was told that emperor's wife concubine and maid of honor would wear kwnaja favorably. And the kinds of Tugeu is PuyongKwyunkye, Aangunkye, Chunkye from Kyuwanjon except Sangunkye, Ounkye in Dunhuangsa. 2. Jangdaegy is guoted from Kyuw-anjon -A series of the chinese history book-tells us about women's make-up . The narmes of make-up are Hongjang Unjan--g, Yiljang chwejang, Tam-ajang Murgjang, Sanagjang, Light-make up are referred in Naegagyo is included as packjang Besides we can find other make-up skills Huphwaro and Rujang from the Kaewonch onbon-wisa which was Yangkwibi's episodes. We can find the a corpus of song's words about cosmetic custom in Kor-ea. Which is 'Haecho' folk song in the souther-en costal regions 'Jinggum' folk song in Kim-hae regions and so on.... It's words is similar to Dunhuangsa in China. 3. Bichun inherited to China with India Bud-dism art in the middle of Dunhuang wall-pain-tings is one of the important Buddist saint. Sometimes it is painted with Giakchun Its arms of fly-dnacing in heaven with colored belt on body has almost the form of play on the musical instrument, We can see seasily the form in the painting of Buddist ser-mon. It was progressed and changed with the background of chinese traditional culture. When Dang's period came the color was chan-ged lighting dark blue has rhythmical and viv-id power of life. 4. Among the corpus of song's words which express the singers' system and rites of their tradition or habits. Dunhuang manuscripts des-cribes on behalf of the folk song's words in tra-ditional costume. This is following: (1) Naegagyo o sabyokwanja o Chyrasam o Rashang (2) Wangyesa o Sokryugun o Costume for fisher man (3) Bungajang of the chanboja o Ajang (4) Pongkwyun o Chongui (5) Tongsongs o Junofore (6) Namgaja o thin-Rasam (7) Yuchungnang o Hongsam o Sokryugun : The color of red costume (8) Kyongburak o Hongrasam o Sokryugun : Costume for charming woman Therefore traditional costume could be extracted according to the Dunhuang folk song's words out of culture such as learning rit-es three-obedience four-virtues and in-struction. As the same time it reflects ancient China's characteristics directly. I would endeavor to development for the history of the costume furher creative design and participat-ed in research activity with concerns forward continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.32-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.101-122
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to define the fundamentals of one symbolic concept, so calles vestment-sign, based on the logical relationship of sign system about the trichotomy by charles S. Peice's sign concept for the communication system of meaning in the non-linguistic image domain. To prove the argument of vestment-sign, I selected 3 type of vestment language by styliste, Elsa Schiaparel-li. The third image vestmental chosen here, titled“Larme-Illusion(1938)”,printed by Salvad-or Dali will produce one symbolic proposition as a logical result which is generated and developed through the interpretation of other images. First of all the text, which is manifested by Elsa Schiaparelli's first image vestmental, tit-led“Notation Musical(1937)”and is symbolized as one category in the representation of the form, is regarded symbolic and metaphorical from a standpoint that the title and the meaning is connected to the form. The second image vestment, titled“Ruches Noirs(1938)”represents externally splendid feminity man-ifested by the symbolic and metaphorical expression. And the purity of sensitivity aiming to humanity in the detail of the poetic feeling of naturalism makes us imagine the battle fild of furious sensitivity. Like as the result of the battle, the third image stimulated our eyesight with the“absence”of dressing function. The proposition of the text,《Death》which the third image delivers, constructs sign system to bring up a meaning with the disappearance of physical“signifier”. This establishment of the symbolic concept presents the etymological authority of symbol generation called“Design”.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.51-61
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to identify function of make-up as an Important variable in terms of its influence to psychology of performers and outcome of their performance. From June to November 2004 performers in 4 types of fields, i.e., opera, musical, drama and dancing being performed in Seoul and Cheongju were chosen as subjects and totally 450 questionnaires were prepared and distributed and among them 416 were used as data for final analysis. For data analysis frequency analysis, factor analysis, T-test, one-way ANOVA, path analysis, chi-square test were conducted by means of SPS 12.0 and MOS 4.0 statistical programs and as ex post facto checking Duncan's multiful range test was conducted. Make-up is an important element in acting and it has great influence on level of psychological satisfaction of an individual. It was disclosed that psychological factor of concentration and lethargy have direct bearing on acting performance. In order to maximize actor or actresses performance skill perfect make-up is essential and role of make-up specialist can become a critical factor for inducing success in performance. Role and duty of make-up artists in terms of scope of their responsibility should be extended so that they may give their full support to the performers to be most successful in their performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.167-181
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• 1992

This study was conducted to clarify the formativeness of Cezanne's painting and it's influence on the Modern Fashion. Recently, fashion was introduced and applied the originality of paintings into the fabric and fashion designing. To go with the current of the times I already discussed about the Modern Fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism and N대-Impressionism in the previous paper. In this study, Cezanne's painting and it's influence on the Modern fashion was investigated. As one of the original Impressionist, Paul Cez anne had been so adversely affected by the critical attack on his contributions to the 1874 and 1877 exhibitions that he never again showed with the group. That is, he was the first Impressionist to become dissatisfied with the superficial recording of atmospheric effects. When he turned to nature, it was not simply to depict the objects that occupied a given site but rather to consider relationships among those objects. Cezanne attempted to track down the fundamental laws of geometrical prototypes of sphere, prism and corn. Color too, he found, could be employed according to principle, like the tones of a musical scale. Throughout the Modern Fashion, various forms of Bustle style dress and geometrical style dress were reappered under the influence of the Cez anne's painting technique. And the order and the unity of all nature was illuminated on the fashion's pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of Hiphop that shows the origination background and special feature. Popular music plays the most significant role in this 'age of culture' by its musical and visual methods through mass media. A fashion reflects and represents the culture of it's era. From the early 1990's a new fashion style called 'Hiphop' has become a universal hit among teenagers and even among those in 20s and 30s. As we can see from these points Hiphop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty borderless and genderless. In other words fashion represents individal's unique characters and their culture. This is why the study of fashion trends such as Hiphop is important; becanuse they can give us a series of fascinating insights into all sorts and conditions of men and women in our time : how they view theselves and how they choose to relate to other people whether of their own age or otherwise.