• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.65-78
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.245-260
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• 2016

This study explored cases of 3D printing utilization in domestic and overseas fashion industries, and presented utilization strategies for fashion design departments in universities in future by grasping characteristics of newly appearing distribution types through 3D printing. Cases of producing costumes using 3D printing in fashion industry comprised a bikini using the material of Nylon12 that continuum fashion demonstrated, innovative 3D costumes by Iris Van Herpen, Tweed Suit using the material that Chanel manufactured with 3D printing technology, but they were limited to experimental fashion works due to limitations of 3D printer material and printing size. On the other hand, in fashion accessories, with jewelry and shoes at the head of the list, MCM and Kipling also demonstrated bags using this technology, and Elvis Pompilio and Gabriela Ligenza demonstrated 3D printing hat products as well. Except the above, as in glasses and neckties utilizing 3D printing, owing to reduced limitations of time, size and material, 3D printing was found to be utilized in fashion accessories other than costumes. Recently there has been a new consumption and distribution structure coming up focusing on 3D printing technology. That is, in overseas countries, content platforms sharing products modeled by oneself has rapidly appeared, and in our country as well, funnypoly, a 3D content platform appeared in 2015. The appearance of these new types of distribution structures means that the common people can produce design contents, and we believe that it may bring about a change in the traditional way of distribution structure. To walk in step with this change, it is believed that it is necessary for fashion design departments to raise college faculty members who can educate 3D printing, develop curriculum to educate 3D printing, and develop experiential programs connected with middle and high schools.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.56-73
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to categorize the lotus patterns of traditional Korean fabrics. This study collected 169 fabrics of Korean lotus flower patterns and then made a list of era, configuration of pattern, type of artifact, findspot and holding institutions. It analyzes the characteristics of 251 kinds of lotus woven on 169 Korean fabrics, 251 kinds of lotus on 169 fabrics divided into Realistic Type, Design Type, and Abstract Type. They consist of 213 kinds of Design Type(84.8%), 21 kinds of Realistic Type(8.4%), and 17 kinds of Abstract Type(6.8%). The largest part of lotus patterns is Design Type. Design Types are subdivided into 14 types. This result contrasted with the conclusion of the research paper about peony patterns in Traditional Korean Textiles. The largest part of peony patterns was Realistic Types. Realistic Types of lotus patterns in Korean textiles are subdivided into 6 types. Korea has more diverse forms and a higher ratio of Realistic Types than China and this can be interpreted to reflect that there is a tendency in Korea to prefer natural patterns. Besides abstract Types are subdivided into 3 types. When the lotus flower patterns of Korea and China are categorized and similar types are compared, there are some unique patterns that appear only in Korea or China. Not only that, similar types display differences in pattern arrangement methods and portrayal among the two countries. If such study results are utilized, they can be grounds for distinguishing the production area of lotus flower textile fabrics when they are newly excavated in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1031-1048
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the status of domestic and foreign power blogs that serve as professional source of information and to clarify the difference of the criteria for the certification and selection of power blogs. The study also analyzed the configuration of contents and the characteristic of categories of the power blogs. Eleven domestic blogs were examined, of which ten were certified as power blogs on several portal sites and one blog was operating in English. Furthermore twelve foreign blogs were examined, of which ten blogs were selected from the graded list of www.alexa.com for the Fashion Power Blog TOP 20 adopted on www.telegraph.co.uk in 2009, and two noticeable blogs were selected additionally. Data were analyzed by both theoretical and exploratory studies. The exploratory study was conducted by fourteen majors, who took interest in the blogs and were divided into two groups to look at the domestic and foreign sites, from 12 October to 12 November in 2010. The types of blogs were classified by frequency analysis of interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability. The investigators checked the type of the contents of each blog and the frequencies were used for the classification type. The analysis showed that the frequencies were in the order of information provision, followed by interest provision, and purchase capability for foreign blogs, while interest provision was followed by information provision for domestic blogs. Interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability were generally reflected in foreign blogs. Rather than interest provision and information provision, however, interactivity and purchase capability were reflected relatively weakly in domestic blogs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.147-162
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to conduct a comprehensive and objective evaluation on the effectiveness of the activation policies for the Seongsu handmade shoe industry and to suggest the direction of more effective future policies using the results. The list of the activation policies for the Seongsu handmade shoe industry was investigated and awareness, appropriateness, effectiveness, and satisfaction were measured from the representatives of the Seongsu handmade shoe companies via an off-line survey. A total of 61 usable data sets were statistically analyzed. Based on the evaluation result of the policies, a focus group interview with 6 representatives of the Seoungsu handmade shoe industry was conducted to investigate the causes and effectiveness of the policies and the problems pertaining to those policies. The awareness, effectiveness, and satisfaction of the policies were evaluated as negatives, while the appropriateness of the policies was evaluated as a positive. The manufacturers of the handmade shoes evaluated policies that improve the environment of the workplace higher and evaluated the handmade shoes education policy lower than the distributors and raw materials suppliers. The problems with the activation policies for the Seongsu handmade shoes industry were found to be structural problems, issues with the implementation of the policies, and that the fact that the policies did not reflect the reality of the industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.415-432
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• 2019

The purpose of the present study was to generate a list of business ethics components according to business area for small and medium-sized fashion companies. Based on the literature review, 21 components of business ethics components were identified within five business areas. Ten CEOs(Chief Executive Officers) each participated in an in-depth interview, sharing ethical and unethical cases from their own businesses. Constant comparative analysis was used to generate important business ethics components from those cases. In results, important business ethics components for each business area are: 1) using human-friendly materials, strengthening sustainable technologies, using vegan materials, concerning safe process, and reducing waste in the material production and sourcing area, 2) enhancing an efficiency in design, developing recycle/reuse designs, avoiding to copy designs, and using messages for public interest in the product design area, 3) concerning fair-trade, reducing harmful substance, saving energy, and using ethical supply channels in the distribution and logistics area, 4) acquiring certifications, promoting consumer protection, avoiding exaggerative/false advertisements, and promoting social contributions in the management and marketing area, and 5) promoting workers' rights, complying with the law, and investing on employee educations in the labor management area. All of the ethical and unethical cases of the ten companies have involved aspects of the 21 components, thereby enhancing understandings on how each issue is being seriously considered and/or handled in the small and medium-sized fashion companies. Study findings may provide a basis for development of a research model for quantitative studies and/or educational programs related to business ethics in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.23-42
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the Chinese Miao people's Batik patterns and provide data in the field of fashion design for the utilization of the traditional patterns. This study investigated and analyzed the regional characteristics of Batik dyeing, which was listed on China's national intangible cultural heritage list; Danzhai, Anshun, Huangping, and Gonghyeon. The expressive characteristics were classified into four categories: symbolism, abstraction, decorativeness, and playfulness. The results are as follows. First, symbolism can be classified into the origins of the Miao, symbols of faith, history of migration, and the symbols of status with Batik patterns from different regions, seemingly involving various symbolic implications. Due to the absence of letters, Miao people expressed their emotions and history in the design patterns. A series of developments in recent years has led to incorporating the temperament of the Miao people, history of migration, expression of emotions, and ideal hopes in Batik dyed design patterns and the symbolic functions have been significantly emphasized. Second, the decorativeness is mainly characterized by repeated patterns of the Miao Batik dyeing design. The overall patterns demonstrate design features characterized by regularization and simplification, along with a sense of rhythm with the unique arrangement of patterns. Third, the abstractness of the Batik dyeing design patterns is often found in plant and animal patterns, properly delivering new designs created by Miao women by extracting and rearranging various elements, including dots, lines, and faces shown in natural images. Fourth, playfulness is expressed by the transformation and distortion of Miao Batik patterns, and were created by applying patterns or other elements to original forms to express animal or plant patterns in a playful way.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.83-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of retro fashion and new-tro fashion using big data. TEXTOM allowed the collection of big data on the words 'retro fashion' and 'new-tro fashion', which was refined afterwards. As for the data collection period, Jan. 1, 2019 to Nov. 30, 2022 was set. A top 50 list of words were extracted from this data based on appearance frequency. The extracted words were processed through Network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. The results are as follows. 1) In retro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'style' was the highest, followed by 'sensibility', 'color', 'trend', 'fashion', and 'brand'. These words came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'color', 'style', 'trend', 'sensibility', and 'design' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; trends, styles, looks, and photos. 2) In new-tro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'retro' was the highest, followed by 'trend', 'generation', 'style', 'brand', and 'fashion'. These words also came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'retro', 'trend', 'generation', and 'brand' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; style, brand, clothing, and trend. 3) New-tro fashion is included in retro fashion in that it reproduces the styles of the past. However, it is taken completely differently from generation to generation. Unlike the older generations, millennials actively accept newly created clothes and brands based on the past styles. They perceive it as a fashion that reveals their own unique tastes and tastes.