• Title/Summary/Keyword: costume culture

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A Study on the Coloring and the Arrangement of Colors of Korean Traditional Embroidery (한국 전통 자수의 색채와 배색에 관한 연구)

  • Yun, Ji-Young;Ha, Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.8 s.108
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    • pp.95-112
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    • 2006
  • This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.

The Pursuit of Individual Freedom in Rudi Gernreich's Fashion Designs (루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich)패션 디자인에 나타나는 개인적 자유에 대한 추구)

  • Lee, So-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.123-142
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    • 1998
  • 본 논문에서 패션 디자인(fashion design)을 평가하는데 있어서 새로운 방법론적 접근 방식을 제시해 보려하였다. 즉 패션 디자이너의 디자인에 대한 철학을 이해함으로서 패션에 대한 근복적인 면에 대해 보다 나은 이해를 갖도록 하는 접근 방식을 모색하려는 것이다. 본 논문의 분석대상은 디자이너 루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich : 1922-1985)와 그의 작품들인데, 그의 작품들에 나타나는 급진적인 성향 뒤에 숨어 있는 그의 디자인 철학을 집중적으로 분석함으로써 작품과 철학의 상관관계를 조명하려는 것이 그 주된 목적이다. 기존의 그에 대한 평가는‘파격적 패션’,‘소설 스테이트먼트(Social Statement)’,또는‘시각적 창출’등의 표현으로 극히 피상적인 것이었다. 반면에 그가 어떠한 경로로 이러한 디자인을 구상하게 되었는지 또는 그가 현대의상에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미쳤는지에 대한 연구는 극히 소수에 불과하였다. 본 논문의 초점은 건라이의 패션 디자인을 그가 중요한 가치로 믿고 있었던‘개인적 자유에 대한 추구’의 반영으로써 재 평가해 보려는 것이다. 이것의 입증을 위해서 그의 디자인들을 역사적, 사회적 그리고 미학적인 관점에서 분석하였다. 먼저 그의 디자인 철학을 도출하기 위해 그의 개인적 배경에 대한 상세한 검토를 하였고, 그의 디자인과 관련된 자료와, 현존하는 작품들과 그에 따른 참고문헌들에 대한 분석 조사 작업을 하였다. 이 작업을 통해 필자는 건라이의 작품들을 세 개의 주된 주제들, 즉,‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’,‘유니섹스 모드(Unisexs Mode)’, 그리고‘옵 아트 패션(Op-art Fashion)’으로 구분하였다.‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’과‘유니섹스 모드(Unisex Mode)’는 60년대 중반에서 70ssu대 초반에 출현한 유스 컬츄어(Youth Culture)에 부합하는 그이 디자인의 반영으로써 성의 혁명, 여성 인권운동과 동성애자 인권 운동과 같은 사회이슈들과 그의 디자인이 갖는 상관관계를 보여주는 것이다.‘옵-아트 패션(Op-art fashion)’은 건라이 디자인의 미학적 요소에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그의 작품에 나타나는 인체와 옵-아트 원리의 관계를 조명해 보고, 건라이가 옵-아트와의 연계하에 그의 디자인을 어느만큼 예술적으로 승화시켰는지를 보여주고 있다. 각 주체들은 건라이 작품들의 개별적인 분석을 통해 논하였다. 본 논문은 보다 넓은 관점에서의 건라이의 디자인에 대한 재 평가로 결론을 지었다. 이러한 재평가 작업을 통해 패션 디자인계에 미친 그의 공헌의 역사적 중요성을 강조하고 현대 패션에 그의 영향이 계속 미치고 있는 이유를 설명하려 하였다.

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A Study of Decorative Pattern Shown in e Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty′s Tomb (고구려고분벽화에 나타난 장식문양 연구)

  • 안창현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.4
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    • pp.131-148
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    • 2003
  • Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

A Study on the Characteristics of the Make-up on Corpses Depending on the Cause of Death in the American Drama CSI (미국드라마 CSI 에 나타난 사인(死因)에 따른 상처분장의 특성 연구)

  • Kim, Yu-Kyoung;Oh, In-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.99-113
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    • 2010
  • The corpse make-up depending on the cause of death shown in CSI is the only evidence to solve a case, and shows the characteristics of the unique make-up on the corpse, according to the causes of death. There are many types of death causes such as strangulation, manslaughter, assassination and shooting, of which the strangulation is caused by strangling the neck with the hands or using a weapon and has characteristics of showing other external wounds with purple spots appearing on the body after death. This is a presentation of the corpse with a face of white, and the purple spots bruised on the neck. Manslaughter shows deep wounds caused by a stab or laceration using a weapon, and the material feeling of the wound that makes new skin tissue, is realistically presented with make-up of gooey blood. Assassination can be thought as manslaughter in disguise as an accidental death, which the causes can be due to electrocution, suffocation from oxygen deficiency and from excessive monoxide. The make-up is presented by realistically showing the surrounding fragments of the bullet shell, the blood running down, the size of the hole in the body made from the bullet, and shows the broken skin tissues. The shape of the bullet wound can be presented differently based on the body part where the bullet penetrated into, and the part where the bullet shot out through.

An Iconological Analysis of the Fashion Works of Vivienne Westwood (도상해석학 관점에서 고찰한 Vivienne Westwood 패션 작품)

  • Yun, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.1
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    • pp.60-76
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

Socio-Semiotic Analysis of Plural Sexuality Represented in Modern Fashion (I) (현대패션에 표현된 다원적 성에 관한 사회기호학적 분석 (I))

  • Choi, Kyung-Hee;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.2 s.111
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    • pp.190-201
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study Is to reinterpret sexuality represented in modern fashion with the conception of plural sexuality from post-structuralism in socio-semiotic approach. It consists of two parts.: The first part provides the theoretical background and the methodological framework of this study. The second part ultimately accomplishes this study by empirical research, which is to infer plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and sexual ideology signified in modern fashion. In this part the theoretical background was focused on the conception of sexuality on the basis of Foucault's idea, and then the framework for this study was made up from socio-semiotic perspective. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structural idea maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. Socio-semiotics suggests a contextual methodology to analyze the phenomena of material culture by articulating the range of material objects with that of ideology. The socio-semiotic model applied to sexuality represented in fashion is the framework of classifying into the several versions of fashion images from fashion as a material object and then inferring sexual ideology codified in them. In addition, three stages of producer/object/user in socio-semiotics were revised into 'dominant sexuality' with mainstream fashion out of dominant discourses,'oppositional sexuality' to create anti-fashion from oppositional discourses of subculture, and 'alternative sexuality' to be appropriated to dominant discourses by the mix of mainstream fashion and anti-fashion.

Case Study of Design Motifs of National Symbols in Countries Including Korea: Focused on Scarves and Neckties

  • Kyung, Nam-Jae;Keum, Key-Sook
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.67-82
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    • 2012
  • 21st century is the Age of Culture, and a period that is represented by symbolism and imagery. This is no exception for the countries that want to enhance their image in the international community. In order for a country to improve its brand, it has to select a representative emblem, symbols and cultural items. The usual suspects for this are its name, flag, and anthem. Each of these items can elicit different types of symbolism. It can also be used to differentiate the country from others; however, these are not the only sources of symbolism at the country's disposal. Other popular tools include cultural heritage, both tangible and intangible, climate, natural environment, and its national character. A country can use these items to associate itself with certain images. The purpose of this study is to find an objective way to effectively boost Korea's brand. This will be done by comparing and contrasting the ways countries including Korea have used their national emblems to enhance their image. Data from each of the countries were collected and analyzed. The results of this study will become empirical evidence in researches aimed to develop fashion designs that use Korea's national emblem as its motif in order to improve its national brand Countries that were used for this research were United States, United Kingdom, Japan, France and Korea, and they were chosen because their national brand rated highly. The items selected for the analysis were scarves and neckties. This was because, compared to other fashion items, it was easier to sort out scarves and neckties that used motifs of national emblems as well as these two items having the highest usage rate of this type of motif. Group of experts looked through a combined total of 370 scarves and ties and they analyzed the following factors in the design: type of motifs, frequency, use of color, methods of expression and images.

A Study of Futuristic Materials in Contemporary Fashion

  • Kim, Yoon-Hee;Choi, Yoon-Mi
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.22-31
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    • 2007
  • The systematic study of the future began with curiosity and imagination about the future; a unique trait of human mental effort-and this seems to be based on the idea that the future can be different depending on current choices or effort. In this sense, it would be seemly to encourage more interest and academic study on the progress of future fashion. In this study, we examine recent changes of fashion material; e.g. that which science and technology have more impact and importance in futuristic fashion since the 1990�s. The period analysed is from the1990's to the present and related data from recent fashion collections and fashion books has also been included The current prediction of the future is largely based on what was formed between the 19th Century and the 20th Century which has persisted until now and has been influenced by the view that science will play a bigger role in the future. This is especially reflected in fashion which chiefly represents material culture. New materials used for fashion are strong and permanently durable, in addition to being very light, thin, flexible, hygienic, ecological and comfortable to wear-almost like a second skin. These fashionable new materials roughly function in two different ways according to external and internal characteristics. First, they cause external change. Second, they exemplify or allow new functions. Examples of external change are the use of silver color, achromatic color, metallic material, smooth-to-the-touch shiny material and the use of luminous material. Examples of the extended function of clothing through the use of new materials are the use of conducting thread, the use of special material for blocking & opening and the use of material which changes colors as the surroundings change. These days, the use of new material which changes its appearance is a novelty unique to the fashion world but we also expect to witness the debut of diverse new materials with extended inner functions.

The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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Study on the Influence that the Japanese Fashion has had on the Contemporary Fashion(Focusing on the since 1980s) (일본 패션이 현대 패션에 미친 영향-(1980년대 이후를 중심으로)-)

  • 정성혜
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.25
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    • pp.21-39
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    • 1995
  • By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

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