• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.27-32
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• 2018

Hanbok is a our own history and tradition and is an icon of Korean history and culture. Today, the costumes are moving around the world fashion trend due to the development of mass media and internet at the same time. This is an important clue to marketing activities and can be used for predictive analysis. Although Hanbok is changing little by little every year, research on the trend of Hanbok is rare. This study analyzed the results of searching for 'Hanbok' as a keyword in Portal Site Naver and posting a customized purchase of Hanbok for marriage between 2016 and 2017. The analysis was based on analyzing the photos uploaded, and analyzing purchase reason in the On-line review. Most buyer of Hanbok purchased for prepare marriage. The choice of a customized hanbok is mostly to search online or to use the fair. The most important factor in choosing a custom Hanbok that appeared in online reviews is color and then price. The color of the jacket is mostly light color and the off-white color is the most used and the long skirt such as the pink system, the chorale system and the red system, and it can be seen that the pink skirt is overwhelmingly large. In the design of Hanbok, The sleeves were straight and narrow, and the length was the chest line. The collar were enlarged and widened. 고름 used the sole color instead of the jacket and skirt color, and it was narrow not long. skirt's pleats was wide, and designed to overlap with double color of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.103-122
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• 2007

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.111-126
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• 2008

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2008

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.33-48
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• 2014

Based on the advent and dissemination of new developments concerning information & telecommunications technology, web services have brought new paradigms into society, thus facilitating the birth and evolution of various service industries to society as a whole. This study is aimed at investigating the expansion of the first Birthday party culture and design examples of the first Birthday partywear appearing in social media, through an inquiry into the communication functions inherent in social media. Also, the development of the first Birthday partywear designs for women aged 20 to 30 years was accomplished by categorically analyzing design characteristics in preferred fashion styles uploaded and shared within online childcare communities. First, it can be concluded that due to the bidirectional flow of information between corporations and consumers occurring from the expansion of social media, the entire structure of the market is undergoing great changes. Next, the need for the supply of professionalized the first Birthday partywear can be proved by the influx of party planners and caterers into this new industry. Third, Through a categorical analysis of these 523 photos, elegance style was the most preferred while classic and romantic styles followed. Last of all, 5 pieces of partywear reflecting contemporary consumer lifestyles which focus on 'enjoying one's own life' were created under the concept of 'Romantic chic'. The created designs aim to present a style which follows the predominant trend of elegance, classic and romantic, whilst keeping sensitivity in moderation. In this context, this study has aimed to present fundamental research data in the field of online the first Birthday partywear, through the development of the first Birthday partywear design based on the first Birthday party consumer characteristics gleaned from various forms of social media.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.143-158
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• 1996

It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.91-107
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• 1997

For the purpose of this study is the re-searcher investigated the concept and background of kitsch and the character of Kitsch in the paintings with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art. In this study it was focused that how the shapes and materials was expressed in the modern fashion. Surrealism in paintings is lead thoughts and art movement to humanism of be-having man and pursuit of mental sub-stance of human beings expressing un-conscious word and transforming image in new way by the methods Automatism and Depaysements. Pop Art in paintings is used to objects common and cheap in the popular con-sumer's society. That is to say Pop Art sublimated con-sumptional culture of mass as art. And this phenomenon is appeared in the modern fashion which have influencedon the shapes and materials in design. Kitsch's character was researched in terms of shapes materials in the modern fashion with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art and their aspect are summarized as follows: 1. In he aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of play through the method distor-tion or modification of dress. It was un-derstood that the cause of the dreaming and fantasy in the childhood. In the aspect of materials it apepears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of exagerated-decoration through using of object which is various asses-sories flower doll etc. 2. In the aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of disharmoney disorder and unsuit-ableness. The major cause of that is be-cause of Antistandard fashion I the aspect of materials it appears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of sarcasm pleasantness. It was reviwed that the major cause of the wit or humor comes from the image of the masses makes use of such as plastic fun-ny picture can coin etc.