• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.82-99
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the traditional costume colors in ancient Korea. The results of this study can be summarized follows : The traditional costume colors in ancient Korea was affected on Chineses goverment official\`s costume colors, specially in Tongil Silla Dynasty. Goverment official\`s costume colors were purple(紫), red(赤), yeoolw(黃), blue(靑). The traditional Korean colors for clothes were devided in the white costume for low class and the colored costume of high class. The traditional Korean colors for colthes became fixed in the later Chosun dynasty, According to developing of dyeing technic, the prohibition of red costume for low class made for wear red undercloth. And on account of costume color in sumptuary law occured the transition of costume color. As transition of costume color, yellow(黃) changed in light in light yellow(松花色), purple(紫) did in dark green purple(茶割) Also it was found that the traditional Korean color for clothes was many kinds of soft, deep, natural colors out of red(紫)·yellow(黃)·white(白)·black(黑)·blue(靑).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.177-195
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• 1999

In this study, I tried to find out the diffusion and the receptive process of new culture with examining the costume of Ksitigrbha Bodhisattva Buddist drawings, which were drawn by our people in the Koryo dynasty. I classified each part of the costume of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas and found out overall characteristics and analyzed their meaning. The results are as follows ; First, because there were several ‘du-gun’ of peculiar types, Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas were supposed to have ‘du-gun’ before Buddhism was diffused throughout China through the West. The type of ‘du-gun’ was deveoloed more and more through the West and appeared as the type of ‘du-gun’ of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas in ‘Ji-Jang Do’ in the Koryo dynasty. And the pecuilar type of du-gun was supposed to have been under the influence of the costume of Taoism in those days. Second, I think that the Buddhist defication of the costume in Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas was a phenomenon in the process that belief in Ksitigarbha was united with popular belief and widely diffused and became to have its important meaning of its own. Third, the feminine tendency of the costume in Ksitigarbha meaning of the early goddess remained partly in the costume even though Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva was god in India. Fourth, Several found shape designs are supposed to be affected by the diplomatic relationship with the West. As mentioned above the costume ‘Ji-Jang Do’ in the Koryo dynasty was affected by china\`s, world-wide in that ga-sa was Gandira style based on Hellenistic art. Therefore, the reception if new culture was selective on the basis of the country\`s need and this new culture was changed into something peculiar to affect other countries simultaneously with reception.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2000년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.82-83
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• 2000

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2003년도 International Exhibition and Workshop
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• pp.22-23
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• 2003

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.317-335
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• 1994

The purpose of this thesis is to analyze the relation of the mentalistics linguistics and costume, and to clarify the relationship between language as psychological expressions and costume to understand the phenomena of human costume behavior more deeply and comprehensively. As for the analysis of he costume phenomena, Noam Chomsky's psychological linguistic theory were applied to costume system. In this respect, particularly, by means of Chomsky's later theory(1965), the costume behavior were analyzed. The followings are the findings of the analysis : 1. The Syntactic Component: (※ See Full-Text) 2. The Semantic Component. The costme behavior is similar to a language system. Just as one morpheme or a phrase and phrases make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different forms is costume. Language and costume have dictionary entry showing the meaning of vocabulary, and rules combining the individual meaning of the dictionary entry to complete the sentence.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.37-45
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• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.103-120
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• 2021

This study interprets Siberian shaman costumes from the perspective of Siberian shamanism's spiritual culture by combining theoretical and empirical studies. According to the natural environment and language families, the Siberian people are classified into the Altai, Tungus, Ural, and Paleo-Siberian groups. Se Yin's research classifies the spiritual culture of Siberian shamanism as cosmic, spiritual, and nature view. Eliade's research has divided Siberian shaman costumes into form, headdress, and ornament. According to the present study, shaman costume form and decoration reflect the Siberian three-tiered cosmic view, such that the shaman's head, body and feet correspond to the upperworld, middleworld and underworld. In addition, animism, totemism and ancestral worship appear in the shamanism's spiritual view. For example, the costume's form shows the totem of each tribe, while the costume accessories reflect animal worship, plant worship and ancestral worship. Finally, shamanism's nature view mainly manifests through three processes: personification, deification, and ethics. As an intermediary between man and the spirits, shaman use their clothing to reproduce the image of half man and half spirit. The shaman's costumes are deified and considered to have divine power. For example, the animals represented on the costume help the shaman travel through space. Generally, good animals help a shaman enter the upperworld, while animals that help a shaman enter the underworld are considered evil. Also, the number of hanging accessories represents the shaman's ability.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.25-41
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• 2001

This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.