• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.47-64
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• 1996

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi(枕草子) \lrcorner$ This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 10000. In this book many kinds of clothing ornament color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name In detail there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Clors 11 Materials Patterns the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in Makur-anosorsi were reflections of the reality of that times. 3. From ancient times japanse Costume was much influenced by Korea. but around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been pre-viosly used in neighboring countries Korea and China But after they were imported to japan some of them were changed to japans hybrids especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan Clothing Colors were used in various ways sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also signifi-cant meaning. This meas that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in japan by the 10th cen-tury. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk This is the reason why $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi \lrcorner$ was the expression of the Royal Court.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.17-31
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• 1997

The Heian Period(794-1192) was the period when luxury and elegance flourished. Gorgeous colors were adopted for the costumes and an el-egant assortment of colors prevailed. Representatiove of such costumes is kasane-no-irome. The world Kasane-no-irome originally came from two colors on both sides of one of the japanese kimonos called Uchiki. In later times it turned to indicate the combination ef-fect of colors of several Uchiki's worn in layers one over the other. This paper describes in de-tail the kasane-no-irome in both meanings. In so doing I distinguish two different kinds of kasane-no-irome using a Chinese character for the formed and for the latter though both are pronounced Kasane in the Japanese language. Part one of this paper which concerns the color combinations of presents typical 148 samples through reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. Part two describes the color com-bination of which was so called Junihitoe. It presents typical 41 samples from reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of color distribution and the structure of color combination in Kasane-no-irome. Therefore we obtained the following results in Kasane-no-irome. 1. The color combination of Kasane-no-irome came from the natural color harmony there-fore the names of kasane-no-irome which adopt the names of flowers and leaves of the foure seasons. Accordingly the seasons for wearing them are fixed. 2. In the hue the most frequent appearance was green. And in the tone the most frequent apperance was moderate. 3. In the color combination the most fre-quent type were monochromatic combination and contrast combination.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.208-225
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify trends in modern Korean clothing design through investigation and analysis of the types and respective characteristics of silhouettes, colors, materials, patterns, and decorations present. To this end, research methods such as literature research and content analysis through case study research were used. The results of the wedding magazine data analysis were largely classified by design element and based on such, the conclusions are as follows. First, in the analysis of silhouettes, the appearance rate of traditional items decreased over the selected period and that of modified items increased. Second, among the same colors, adjacent colors, proximity complementary colors, contrast, and other harmonies, adjacent color harmonies showed the highest rate of appearance. Third, the cases where the same materials were used for the top and bottom elements showed a similar appearance rate as those where different materials were used. It was also concluded that traditional materials are being replaced by modern materials. Fourth, regarding the arrangement of patterns, the appearance rate of the absence of patterns gradually increases. Fifth, there were more case of decorations than those of none. This study made it possible to grasp the changes in trends of modern Korean clothing from 2011 to 2020 and provide basic data for the development of the Korean clothing market industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2016

This study analyzes the characteristics of the motifs and colors in flower and bird paintings which contain and present Korea's unique aesthetics based on its richest data among all other types of Korean folk paintings. With a theoretical exploration of folk paintings and an analysis of the motifs and colors, textile design with an aim to present highly valued korean modern fashion design was developed. Two hundred and seventy flower and bird paintings were selected from relevant materials, resulting in an extraction of 5,068 colors. A palette of representative colors was made based on densely distributed hues and tones. The research can be summarized as follows: Flower and bird paintings contain flowers, birds, trees and animals and the motifs in the paintings stand for spirituality, philosophies from different times and other symbols of our nation. Each of the motifs in these paintings is a prayer for good luck, especially conjugal harmony and fecundity to bring about happiness and richness. Colors in flower and bird paintings are characteristic of the order: YR(25.5%)>R(19.2%)>Y(10.6%)>PB(9.2%)>G(7.9%), with low-chromatic YR and highly bright R taking up a larger percent. The order of tones is: d(13.5%)>dk (10.5%)>s(10.4%)>dkg(10.0%)>sf(9.1%)and the tone is dark in general. YR, taking up the largest percent, was dull, light, and soft. As for the achromatic colors, the order is: W(5.2%)>Gy(1.9%)>Bk(0.7%). Based on the above analyzed color data, those colors which were high in their hue and tone were extracted to present representative colors. In this way, representative colors like yellow, yellowish red, red, green, and purplish blue were extracted. This was the basis to present motifs and colors originating from subjects of folk paintings in various patterns using Illustrator CS6, to create modern fashion design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.127-142
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• 2020

This study compared the domestic and international commercial design patterns and domestic consumer preferences for wetsuit designs to develop a user-centered wetsuit design. An analysis of the domestic and international design elements for 1,802 wetsuits sold online over the past three years showed that the most frequent shapes, dominant colors, and patterns were the same, as consumers tended to buy full suits that were black or had geometric patterns. Dominant colors and assort/accent colors were different from the survey results. Men's wetsuits used fewer colors and patterns than women's suits. Domestic wetsuits used fewer patterns than those sold abroad; in addition, colors were applied differently. A consumer preference survey conducted on 213 male and female consumers in their 20s and their 50s in Korea indicated that 53.5% of respondents were the most affected by the shape when choosing a wetsuit design. The preferred color scheme was two colors, with a vivid tone used as an accent color. The factor analysis results on wetsuit design preference uncovered the six factors: individuality, display, function, acceptance, imitation, and comparison. An independent sample t-test also showed that men perceive individuality, imitations, and comparison factors higher than women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.397-407
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• 2008

Recently, influence of color has been expanded in various fields including design field. Among human five senses, visual sense is best for information capturing, and 80% of information judgment by visual sense is from color. Color is emotion and image. Hanbok is marked by its beautiful color combinations. The guiding principle of such color chords was Obangsaek, or the traditional Korean five base colors. The method of this study is to consider concepts of Obangsaek derived from the principles of yin-yang and the five elements and is to investigate application of Obangsaek. And the purpose of this study is to understand traditional colors and is to provide judgment criteria on various color combinations based on Korean aesthetic sense for development of textile design. The degree of nation culture depends on the level of research, analysis and application on traditional colors. Obangsaek, Korean traditional color is splendid and primary color. Also, Obangsaek has symbolic and lucky meanings. These colors are still the primary source of coloring. Obangsaek has been reinterpreted by application on textile design, some into base colors and others into diverse shades. So this study will help in the aspect of development on Korean style design.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.