• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.232-233
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.27-43
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• 2015

Festival costume shown in festival parades targeting historical events or figures helps to understand the theme of festival and grants visual effects and at the same time, is an important factor to identify then-cultural environment. Accordingly, this study aims to make a periodic review of traditional costumes used in parades for Hanseong Baekje Cultural Festival and Yeongam Wangin Cultural Festival which are both the festivals that backgrounded Baekje period, make a comparative analysis of the archetypes of reproduction costume vs Baekje costume, understand the problems of festival costume, and seek developmental directions. After making a comparative analysis of reproduction costume shown in festival parades, it was found that king costume, queen costume, governmental official costume, and humble class costume were all different from Baekje costume in terms of configuration, materials, color, shape, and creating method of costumes, and problems were drawn. When it comes to costume items, Pasul and Danryungpoh that didn't belong to Baekje period were worn. The problems in color research can be identified in governmental official costume. The problems in type of costume are shown in the length of po worn outside, margin of width, and degree of restoring accessories. Therefore, it seems to be necessary to convey and identify costume creating method by festival parade-related persons.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.135-151
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• 2003

This study was carried out in order to become that it helped a base of education to train creation of movie costume. The object is the movie costume of the movie, The Age of Innocence that got the Academy award in movie costume. This study analyzed the costume and color symbolism of the film based on the novel, The Age of Innocence written by Edith Wharton who is a realism writer, and a master of manners and customs novel, is the first Pulitzer Prizewinner as a woman. And this study created the movie costume and hair-style of two heroines, May and Ellen who lead the huge irony that is principal stream of a novel. May stands for 'irony of innocence' and Ellen does for 'absolute innocence'. And each image represents on a display of the front and back of 'innocence' symbolically. The costume design of them was planned along the character which was analyzed and interpreted irony of a drama in a viewpoint of Wharton through this study and expressed with illustration. And using 57cm Porcelain doll, produced a hair-style and costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.43-55
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• 2002

This study intends to consider the characteristics of Tudorian costume and find out how the thoughts and cultures in those days had influences on the costume trends of low and middle class. In terms of the Tudorian costume which generated new cultural mainstreams along with blossomed civil culture, this study focuses on the characteristics and trends of costume at low and middle class, which have been little addressed in studies on western costume history or related fields, turning from the costume of upper class based on wealthy noblemen who showed off its dignity and authority along with jewelry and gorgeous ornamental craftsmanship. This study used related pictures, museum material and other literatures as its reference. It first looked into the general characteristics of western costume and considered the characteristics of costumes popularized in professionals at middle class such as apprentice, yeomen and low-class people. Professional or other middle class almost typically used to wear tunic, doublet, shirts, coat or long gown. Black was mainly used as clothes color. Similarly to upper class, silk or velvet was very often used as material. People at low class enjoyed wear costumes with simple and easy style for working. They also preferred natural color and cotton or wool as material. This study intended to find out which type of costumes people at low and middle class enjoyed wearing, rather than compare costume between such two classes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.176-186
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.310-321
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is clarify the formative characteristic of dance costume design and analyse stage effect based upon the formative factors. Classified design element of dance costumes by line, silhouette, color, material, lighting, and also this based on content analysis method about each formative factor of costumes that showed 10 dance performances which practically be performed and made. And individually interviewed the professional dance composers and dancers who participated in the performances fer objectivity and specialty of this study. The results were as follows; 1. Dance costume contains and harmoniously expresses theme of a dance work, formative characteristic of fashion design, movement and character of the dancers, lighting effect. 2. Korean creative dance costume is effectively expressed with formative factors of traditional costumes and modem sensibility and symbolic expression of image-centered. 3. Costume line is affected by dancer's movement and it's possible to be different effect that the atmosphere or stage effect by the original form of line and the expression method. 4. Costume color is effective to inform that dancer's character and image of a dance work. 5. Costume material is most important to consider that the dancers and the atmosphere and the image of a dance work. 6. Lighting effect can inform various feel of dancer's dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.59-69
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• 2009

This study aims to identify how Korean women's traditional costume, Hanbok, has changed according to the times in terms of color coordination of Jeogori and Chima. Photos had been taken at wedding places and streets at 5 major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Kwangju, Daejon, Jeju) at two weekends of each season in 1999, 2001, and 2003. Total 1617 photos were used as final data. Data were analyzed by hue coordination and value level. Hue coordination exist in one-color and two-color coordination. In one-color coordination, red color(R & RP) was the most frequently used and blue green(BG) was the next, and the least was blue purple(BP) for each year. In value scale, high level was the most frequent and followed by middle level and low level. Pink was the most preferred color for one-color coordination. In two-color coordination, white and blue were widely used for Jeogori and red and blue far chima for each year, which seemed to be the basic color coordination for Jeogori and Chima. While there was a certain basic color coordination types across year, but a few new color coordination appeared each year and maintained as popular color coordination for one or two year.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.75-95
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• 2000

The purpose of this study were: 1) to understand the meaning of color according to the culture 2) to develop color and color arrangements in the thoughts of the East and the West.. The meaning of color on the dyed clothing was investigated through the book written classified with yin, yang, five color elements and Christian color system. The results were as follows; 1. Red wedding dress used the meaning of prevent badness and American used to resist for England in the War of Independence. 2. White wedding dress meaned innocent, gladness to the ancient Greece, Rome and Gothic Christian in the West, and it meaned a dead daughter in Japan, East, 3. Blue clothes meaned lucky in the East and meaned sacredness and love in the West. 4. Yellow was the color of the Emperor in the East, and it meaned death, betray in the West. 5. Black meaned badness in the East, and it meaned sadness in the West.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.161-171
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• 1982

The idea of King Hungdok's prohibition of clothing was to restrict the use of chinese-made cloth on the one hand and to compell his people to use Korean-made cloth for their apparel on the other. The prohibition of clothing sprang from King Hungdok's aspiration to restore his dynasty that had been falling due to the repeated drought disaster and luxurious living of the aristocracy. Safflower, Rubeaceae roots and Sapan wood are well known as some of the earliest natural red-dyes, exhibiting beautiful red-color in our anciet cultural tradition. The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. Those plants used to make the color yellow are: Gardenia, phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, coptis, safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. Shikon, root of violet plant, is well known as one of the earliest natural days. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color.