• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.455-476
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to develop Jiangxi Nuo masks using 3D digital fashion design technology and suggest various ways to utilize traditional culture based on the characteristics of Nuo masks, a traditional Chinese artifact of intangible cultural significance. The researchers conducted a literature review to gather information about Nuo culture and masks that could represent Jiangxi. Features of the masks were analyzed and classified. The result are as follows. First, the symbolic characteristics of Jiangxi's Nuo masks can be divided into those based on their origin and history, the user's social status, and the notions of primitive beliefs of the chosen people, such as naturism and totemism. Second, Nuo masks' splendid decorations convey meanings such as luck, the bixie, longevity, wealth, and peace in the family. Third, playfulness in mask-making is about dismantling the original form of the mask, re-creating it through application. Fourth, the masks express primitiveness mostly by conserving the wood's original color or material. The initial masks carved to represent images of figures aptly deliver the primitive forms and images of Nuo culture. In this study, Nuo masks were developed and produced using the 3D digital technology CLO 3D by adopting the expressive characteristics and applying design methods such as asymmetricity, exaggeration, and modification. The results of this study demonstrate the possibility of creating diverse as well as economical designs through the reduction of production.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.558-571
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• 2023

In recent years, young Chinese consumers have become more favorably inclined toward products relating to traditional culture. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a textile design that incorporates traditional Chinese patterns and cultural symbolism that will appeal to consumers from the MZ generation (millennials and Generation Z). Through a literature search for traditional Chinese patterns and symbols regarded as auspicious, our design concept and motives were established. We selected peony, lotus, and frog motifs as representative of a "wealth and eternal prosperity" design theme. In textile design work 1, we used hand drawing and watercolor techniques, color transformation with Adobe Photoshop, and colorway and end-use 3D simulation with TexPro. The 3D simulation work suggests that this textile pattern is suitable for women's outerwear, mufflers, and tote bags. Textile design work 2 conveyed the 'wealth and eternal prosperity' design theme and had a graceful mood that embodied the nobility of the lotus flower whilst also encompassing the symbolism of money and status. The end design is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese patterns and motifs. As such, it is hoped that it will satisfy the needs of young consumers for cultural values yet offer a unique new aesthetic distinct from existing textile designs. These qualities can be expected to enhance the competitive market value of textiles bearing this design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2023

This study aims to develop a mechanic embroidery bag design that reflects the symbolic image of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the country so that today's Korea can exist. As a research method, the theoretical consideration and image collection of independence activists were conducted through a literature review and visits to the memorial halls of six independence activists. The bag design was developed using mechanic embroidery textile of 12 motifs manufactured in previous studies through the computer mechanic embroidery sewing machine, and the types were limited to totes, Boston, clutches, baskets, shoppers, hover bags, and hat boxes. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the dense light and shade and delicate color expression of each motif design were the most important and achieved through the proper selection and utilization of embroidery yarn according to the mechanic embroidery expression technique for developing in-depth textile materials. Second, unlike in the past, when machine embroidery was difficult to handle, the spread of embroidery CAD and computer machine embroidery sewing machines made it easier for individuals to develop embroidery products. Third, this study once again emphasized the symbolism of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the nation to exist at a time when it needs to be recognized due to the lack of fashion and diversity in cultural products containing historical and cultural meaning and values of the country. This study was able to develop computer machine embroidery textiles and various bag designs using various mechanic embroidery expression techniques that can highlight the symbolic image of each motif.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.379-393
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• 2023

In this study, a survey focusing on the status of clothing interest, inconveniences resulting from clothing, preferred design items, etc. was conducted on 364 elderly women to suggest aesthetically and functionally appropriate indoor wear design for at home elderly women aged 60 years or older. The survey results showed that in general, the respondents' interest in clothing was high, and more respondents in their 70s or older had difficulty in the action of opening and closing. With respect to considerations when purchasing clothes, color was considered more important than design as respondent's age increased, and size was regarded as the most important factor especially among those in their 80s. The preferred top styles were T-shirts and blouses among those in their 60s and 70s, and T-shirts and shirts among those in their 80s. The preferred sleeve lengths were "below the elbow" and "above the wrist" in all age groups. The preferred sleeve hem type was "tightening" in all age groups. The most preferred bottom styles were "straight-leg pants" and "elastic waistband." This study suggests the design items of indoor wear, including top, bottom, and overgarment for warmth, appropriate for elderly women at home based on the survey results. The study results are expected to serve as basic data necessary for the revitalization of the clothing industry for elderly women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2023

The purposes of this study were to investigate bag purchasing behaviors and design preferences of male and female adult consumers, and to find the differences depending on sex and age variable. A survey was conducted on 400 male and female adults from 20s to 50s. The questionnaire consisted of bag purchase behaviors, bag design preferences, and the subjects' demographic characteristics. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's α, factor analysis, x² test and t-test using SPSS. The results were as follows. First, as bag selection criteria, four factors (practicality, symbolism, aesthetics, and economics) were derived, and adult consumers considered economics as the most important among the factors. As for purchasing information sources, three factors (media, human resources, and store) were derived, and adult consumers considered human resources and store information sources more important than media. The main motive for purchasing bags was age and damage of the owned products, and Internet shopping malls were the most common purchasing place. The average annual cost of purchasing bags was 100,000 to 300,000 won, and the frequency of purchase was about once a year. Second, as bag preference images, four factors (individual, romantic, active, and classic image) were derived, and adult consumers preferred classic images the most. The shoulder bag was the most preferred as the bag shape, and black was the most preferred bag color. For the material, natural leather was the most preferred, and for the size, medium size was the most preferred. Third, bag purchasing behaviors and design preferences showed many significant differences according to the sex and age of the consumers. Therefore, the results of this study suggests that bag companies need to establish product development and marketing strategies in consideration of differences according to the sex and age group of adult consumers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.127-141
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to develop a textile pattern design using the columnar joints motif and a Tyvek fashion clutch bags using it. As a research method, first, through a literature review, columnar joint and Tyvek are understood, and design cases were considered. Second, through a survey, the purchase perception and design preference of columnar joints cultural products were analyzed. Third, based on the results of the survey on color and print, the pattern design for each type of columnar joint were developed, and the uv-printed Tyvek clutch bag was developed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the reason why the public was not attracted to the purchase of cultural products was dissatisfaction with practicality, price adequacy, and aesthetics. Therefore, it was analyzed that quality, practicality, price, carry-on storage, collection value, and casualness, as well as aesthetic design were important factors for purchasing factors pursued by consumers. Second, consumers preferred small goods the most for cultural products, and they pursued the use of colorful and contrasting colors, modern and geometric patterns, and eco-friendly materials, such as Tyvek. Third, columnar joint can be classified into three cross sections and four arrangements. The design unit of the columnar joint could be expressed as a hexagonal column, and 12 different pattern designs could be developed according to the cross sections and arrangements type. In addition, it was found that it was easy to produce fashion products suitable for the sensibility of modern people by utilizing Tyvek materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2024

This study aims to investigate the differences in blue jean styles and the visual images associated with them. To achieve this, literature reviews, case studies, and surveys were conducted. The results are as follows. 1) Based on previous studies, it was found that the design elements influencing the style of blue jeans and their visual images include waistline position, silhouette, details, decorations, and color. Additionally, differences in the preferences and visual evaluations of Korean and Chinese individuals regarding the style of blue jeans were confirmed. 2) Skinny blue jeans are typically characterized by a high waistline and a length that reaches the ankles, featuring a snug fit with stretchy fabric. Straight blue jeans, on the other hand, usually have a natural or high waistline and cover the instep, with a straight silhouette descending from the thigh to the hem. Bell-bottom blue jeans are primarily high-waisted and cover the instep with a silhouette forming a bell shape from the knee to the hem. 3) Korean and Chinese women in their 20s evaluated skinny, straight, and bell-bottom styles of blue jeans as having a 'casual' image. However, they also associated bell-bottom style blue jeans with 'unique' and 'attractive' images. Interestingly, Korean women described skinny-style blue jeans as making someone look 'youthful', while Chinese women perceived them as 'sophisticated', 'making the waist look thicker', and 'unassuming'. As for straight-style blue jeans, Korean women saw them as 'well-fitting', while Chinese women described them as 'making one appear taller', 'desirable', and 'free-spirited'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.70-85
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• 2024

This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students' preference for casual uniforms.