• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand the feature and phenomena of women's costume in Choson dynasty by the approach of semiotics. In order to do so, F Saussure's linguistic symbol theory, C. Peirce's conception on semiology theory and cultural semiology of R. Barthes ware used as tool to analyse traditional women's costumes in $Chos\v{o}n$ dynasty. And I choose basic conceptions based on their semiotic theory. which were langue & parole. dennotation & connotation, paradigm & syntagm, code, and analysed. structure of sign, communication though the non-language. The fashion of the $Chos\v{o}n$ dynasty contains various meaning as sign symbol system and makes the communication possible as it is mentioned above. We nay understand the sign symbol system described in the fashion sign by analysing the structure and meaning operation of sign on the basis of social, political, and idealistic background of the times, to understand the polysemy quality of the fashion.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.103-116
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• 2016

This study intends to discover characteristics and methods of retro image wedding dresses by analyzing prior studies about retro characteristics. The characteristics of retro image wedding dresses are as follows: 'Recreative Retro', Trend revival Retro', 'Nostalgic Retro' and 'Remixed Retro'. The expressional characteristics and methods of each character are as follows. The 'Recreated Retro' has been recreated in the wedding dresses worn by celebrities, actresses' wedding dresses in movies, and also in the famous designer's high end wedding dresses. These dresses do not merely duplicate the originals, but also reflect images, which were reproduced by combining modern technology. The 'Trend revival Retro' emerged as a combination of past fashion styles and new trends. It seems to stimulate the customers' reminiscence of past fashion trends and create unique designs through expressing the metaphor or the adaptation of past fashion styles. The 'Nostalgic Retro' started from the discovery of emotional values for something old or the inclination to be attracted to old styles. It has been expressed through design concepts with natural themes. The 'Remixed Retro' is from recombination of Retro elements. It is shown as a new interpretative code which explains how current time blends with different times.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.57-68
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to understand the effects of religion on Amish costumes. For this study I twice visited Amish village in Lancaster Pennsylvania U.S,A in July 1993 and August 1996. The methods of study directed direct observation and literature re-search. The results of this study were as follows: The Amish was livid practically by strict princi- ples of simplicity diligence piety and mutual cooperation. The Amish behavioral code of laws known as ordnung dictated appropriate dress agricultual methods and a routine for daily life. The Amish costumes originated with the 17th century Puritans traditional apparel the European farmer and the clothing style of 19th century Americal,. Amish costumes was fastened with hooks and eyes instead of decorative buttons a diret influence of Puritanism does and did non con-tain ornamental outer pockets. This distinctively simple costumes served as a boundary outsiders to and as a direct ex-pression of their faith. An Amish doll had neither facial features nor fingers and toes as described in scripture "You do not become corrupt and make for yourselves an idol an image of any shape whether formed like a man or a women or like any animal on earth or any bird that flies in the air or like any creature that moves along the ground or any fish in the waters below" In this way Amish costumes was affected by their religion and faith.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.942-959
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• 2010

The Realization of Ubiquitous is achieved by magic mirror and it is required more concrete study to realize it's functionality. Especially its function of professional fashion co-ordinator for managing the appearance could be of further use. The Objective of this Study is to establish RFID chip data base to put into a computer for making use of the functionality of the magic mirror aiming at suggesting the available information on the total fashion co-ordination. I sought firstly the code with binary system determining the criteria of accessories to be input in a RFID chip. Secondly, as the image with cloth is an important element for the total fashion co-ordination, desired co-ordination among the emphasis, harmony, character, season and accent can be made selectable classifying into a limit element and a common element to extract the codes. Thirdly, necessary conditions were given to the generated codes using Visual C++ program of Microsoft and the extracted codes as per groups were compared and analyzed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.313-325
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• 2014

This study seeks to establish a ubiquitous wardrobe with a clothing management function through detailed and subdivided integration research. To create a database, a survey was conducted, and the output data were analyzed and used as the basic data. In particular, this study researched clothing management programs and companies' standards of clothing product classification systems. First, through an in-depth analysis centering on specialists, we established the contents of a ubiquitous wardrobe and used the concept of cloud computing to support the wardrobe contents and smart phone applications. Second, this research found significant differences between individuals, schools, and enterprises in their applications of, and the importance they attach to, design images. A detailed database composed of various categories was established to present the ubiquitous wardrobe contents with efficient functions. Third, we facilitated the search process by designating clothes with QR codes, which is one of the functions of contents. Fourth, the code numbers generated in the process of entering clothes into the database were utilized as RFID information as a way to arrange the products in a simpler manner. The ubiquitous wardrobe was constructed as a web-style hybrid, and its contents areavailable through mobile applications and QR codes.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.151-164
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• 2005

In the modern popular culture, a significant code is not the truth itself but the seeming truth. To fulfill this function, it is a mythology that has a transcendental power to eliminate any doubt and mystery. That is to say, cultural uniqueness is understood as an identical thing through mass communication, and people perceive it as a similar cultural community. In this process, mythology form and accumulate the matrix of mythological meaning by eliminating the difference between the reality and the illusion. Such a matrix forces a meaningless and unconditional truth and practice without any criticism and reconsideration. This paper tries to extract art and cultural characteristics of mythological image through examining the relationship among mythological image, history, and ideology. For this aim, we make use of Roland Barthes' signs and Daniel Boorstin's image as a basic analytical tool. After that we examine the characteristics of mythological image appeared in modern cultural discourses and the relationship between mythological image and modern popular culture. Furthermore, we consider the mythological image expressed in modern fashion, which has the nature of commodity aesthetics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.136-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine how high school girl students used their school uniforms and what types of ornaments they preferred, in an effort to identify the image of school uniform. The result of this study were as follow: First, 52.6 percent of the students investigated altered their uniforms, and as fur the major alteration style, revival one to take them in to be well-fitting was dominant. But concerning skirts, hip-hop style was also found. The students viewed ornaments more favorably, as the larger group of the students perceived that it was necessary to restrict the school-uniform alteration yet not to control ornaments. Concerning how much they wore school uniforms, most of them continued to wear them outside school in many cases. Specifically, those who engaged in pastime or went shopping wearing school uniforms enjoyed altering them, and they also enjoyed using ornaments that weren't allowed by the school dress code. Second, as to school-uniform image, elegant image was most preferred, followed by practical, innocent and fashion-conscious ones. They were most preferred with its elegant image. Third, as to ornaments image, they were most preferred with its positive image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.5-17
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• 2000

This study about the Zoot Style is the first part of a series of research, which is to examine various subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the origin of a style, the way how it developed, and the reason it appealed to people. Subculture is a marginallized culture which the subordinal groups in the social structure developed as a means of reaction against the dominant groups of a society. The clothes and decorations of these groups can be regarded as the central expressions of exclusiveness, loyalty and identities for their groups. In 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural style and high fashion tend to be blurred, because it has gained more influence on the high fashion. Zoot Suit, adopted and diffused by Cap Calloway in 1940s, is the code of a subculture formed by a special race, class, space, gender, and generation identities. It develops as a reaction, and consequently reflects the struggles against the dominant culture: it is to refuse, appreciate and ridicule the dominant style. The Zoot Style had a great influence both in Paris and Cuba: the Zazous Style in Paris and the Caribbean Style of Cuba are the subcultural styles branched from the Zoot Style.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.131-138
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• 2006

The yanggwan is a striped headpiece for civil and military officials worn with jebok, a costume for the royal ancestral worship ceremony, or jobok, a ceremonial costume for the courtier. It was called a jegwan when it was worn with a jebok. The geumgwan and jegwan are of the same style but the geumgwan has a gilded band and backside and the jegwan is mostly lacquered. The yanggwan was worn first with the jebok by the officials, both of which were received from the Chinese Ming dynasty in the 19th year of the King Gongmin's reign during the Goryeo period. The royal crown and court clothing system was two grades lower than the standard clothing code of the Ming dynasty of China. In the Joseon dynasty, the oyanggwan worn by the highest grade officials had five-stripes but was later replaced during the Daehan Empire by the seven-striped chilyanggwan used by Ming dynasty officials. Oyanggwans make up the majority of the surviving examples of these headpieces, with the exception of the six-striped yukyanggwan of Chung In-hak (1839-1919), the Minister of Justice, which originated in the Daehan Empire and whose owner is definitively known. The gilt portion of this yukyanggwan is finely engraved in relief with a bird, flower and tendril motif. The yukyanggwan is topped by a decorative bird ornament, called a jeongkkot. EDSS spectrum analysis of the gold plating reveals a composition of 51.32% gold and 10.34% silver. The yanggwan is composed of bamboo, mulberry paper and silk crepe. The black portions are lacquered. The individual yang is made with twisted mulberry paper.