• Title/Summary/Keyword: costume code

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On Promotion of Wearing Hanbok for the Modernization of Traditional Costumes

  • Soh, Hwang-Oak
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.75-84
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    • 2008
  • This paper starts with the assumption that in order for hanbok to be made known to the world as a cultural code representing Korean beauty, it must first be made familiar among Koreans with opportunities for widespread use of hanbok in a way which forms an understanding with the fashion sense of young generations, and that wearing hanbok must be promoted. We observe the contents and problems of past hanbok festivals and provide methods to promote the wearing of hanbok among the population, creating an occasion for mingling with various cultures in hanbok events which may be experienced by the general population, and developing hanbok as a tourist item and promoting the hanbok industry through standardized hanbok festivals. Globalization of hanbok most occur through a combination of related academic fields, division of roles in fields of expertise, and a scientific understanding of hanbok. The re-creating of traditional hanbok will allow for affirmation of Korean image, a rediscovery of the value of Korean culture, and the establishment of cultural identity. The development of such global designs will form a foundation for hallyu wave culture within popular culture.

Men's Hunting Clothes in the 1920s (1920년대 미국 사냥복에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Young-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.4 s.113
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 2007
  • In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.

A Study on Diverse Expression in Modern Fashion through the Principle of Fractal Geometry (프랙탈 기하학의 원리를 통한 현대 복식의 다의적 표현성에 대한 연구)

  • Um, So-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.703-716
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    • 2010
  • The objective of the study is to analyze expressions of modern fashion in relation to design principle of a science theory, fractal geometry, in order to identify various and multi-layered expressions of fashion. As for methodology, the study interprets principle and characteristics of fractal geometry based on literature review in areas of linguistic, philosophy, sociology and science. The research identifies expressive characteristics of fractal through empirical studies, and applies them to fashion in order to analyze how fractal design principles are reflected in modern fashion in terms of form and significance. Fractal aesthetics pursue order, balance, diversity and openness among disorder and insecurity. They are closely related to the function of modern fashion that works as a multi-layered code, instead of being confined to conventional idea about fashion that "functions" as "wear."

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history (중국 소수민족의 복식 연구(1))

  • 박춘순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.175-206
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    • 1995
  • The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

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A study on the phenomenon of new-tro expressed in fashion - Focus on music video costume style - (패션에 표현된 뉴트로(New-tro)현상에 대한 연구 - 뮤직비디오 의상스타일을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Song-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.137-147
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study, I investigate the new trend, 'new-tro', through the music video costumes of young generations, and analyze the meaning and characteristics of 'new-tro'. The research method is, select 30 music video with new-tro fashion style on the music sites, and the fashion styles were analyzed in 11 music videos checked and selected by 100 students. As a definition of the term, 'retro' refers to a phenomenon in which the past reappears in modern time, and 'new-tro' is a new retro trend, a social phenomenon that enjoys the old with a modern sense, and is a compound word of 'new' and 'retro'. 'new-tro' is a modern reinterpretation and rebirth of the past style, and 'fu-tro' is a style of coexistence between the past and the future. In the music video, fashion is a media language and cultural code, and it creates trend or new fashion, that communicates with the public, stimulating emotions. As a result of the research, the common trend phenomenon expressed in the music video costume of 'new-tro' trend which appeared in 2000s is as follows. 1. New-tro style starts with items that were famous in the past. 2. It is one of postmodern marketing using color, print and logo. 3. It spreads quickly by the influence of culture that is characteristic of the Internet and SNS world. 4. It is bottom up propagation phenomenon of street fashion. 5. It is a time game where modern people connect the past with the present. 6. "new-tro" continues to evolve for that time, based on 'retro'. New-tro, an evolutionary version of the 21st century retro wave. and it is a key to marketing effectiveness as a sympathetic elements of 1020 generations with the reproduction of memories.

A Study on Emperor`s Costumes during the Reign of Gun-ryung in Ching Dynasty

  • 최경순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.33-45
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    • 1999
  • Examine the dress which the Emperor actually wore in Gun-ryung 42nd year of Ching dynasty, comparison of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》 with the Emperors year-round dress in Gun-ryung the 41st year was made and summarize the result as follows. It was used almost similar to the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》. Though the materials and colors were more diverse than those of the previous year, it seems that actual use of material was plain under the influence of mourning. All the materials for summer hat were rattans. And velvet was the material for the patrol hat, but actually used before they change to summer material after fur use was over according to the season, which can be said as more reasonable use than the code. Materials of coat were more diverse than the precious year and also they put on ko-hemp cloth which was not found in the previous year. This can be understood that they expressed their guilt-consciousness to the dead as dress material by wearing ko-hemp cloth during the summer after periiod of mourning was over. And they put on the ko-hemp, the Emperors ordinary dress, much longer time than the previous year and this seems to be coherent to the meaning of wearing ko-hemp cloth. They followed the Emperor\`s Jo-bok1 one for the Kae-bok which were not systematized and Jae-dae used Jo-dae2 as the Emperor\`s Jae-bok in 42nd year. This was the same as the Jae-bok code of the previous year. Jo-ju did not follow the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》, but made a wide variety. For the belt, the same as 41st year, it marked the gem decoration style on the Jae-bok belt as a square type and mourning dress by using the round type. The Emperors dress in 41nd year showed one side of the patrol clothes by the patrol of San-dong. On the contrary, it was also the chance to see one side of funeral garments in 42nd year. In Gun-ryung 42nd year, the Emperor put on the funeral garments for hundred days. Accordingly even in parts, we can see that the Emperor wore two kinds of dress for hundred days, that is, color dress and white dress and white dress. While on duty, in other words, everyday dress was only blue color and also the same color for the belt and shoes. But didn\`t put on Jo-ju. When they were in mourning, they wore white dress and belt as a funeral garments, which were called Hyo-bok, Hyo-bok.

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A Study on Cultural Fusion in Modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 문화적 퓨전 현상에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, So-Young;Kang, Kyung-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.167-178
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to systematically examine fusion phenomenon in the cultural aspect aiming to grasp the characteristics of fusion phenomenon, which has a steady impact on fashion trend. A reason for fusion to be noted as a cultural code is because diversely cultural interpretations are impossible from one viewpoint. Therefore, it is aimed to inquire into the characteristics of fusion culture, which is one phenomenon of newly mass culture, and to examine which cultural fusion phenomenon in modern fashion is being displayed in fashion design. First, the culturally fusion phenomenon, which was indicated in modern fashion, is displayed as repetition. The fusion, which integrates into fashion as a cultural code, is a trend of pursuing the experience with different culture. The needs of consumers are shown as fusion fashion that repeatedly uses the traditional detail and the modern detail through cultural repetition. Second, it is displayed as transformation. A concept of fusion is not the simple aggregate in [1+1=2], but the creation of new culture called [1+1=1]. In modern fashion, the cultures in the East and the West are harmoniously transformed, and through transformation, each culture is being compressively delivered. Third, it is displayed as interdependency. The fusion fashion which was newly re-interpreted while having reciprocal influence upon mutual culture, is re-interpreted by forming the equal relationship in heterogeneous elements without destroying fashion that was made previously.

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A Study on the Code of Pop. Art in Modern Style of Clothing -Since the Early of the 2000's- (현대복식에 나타난 팝아트 요소의 코드화 -2000년대 초기를 중심으로-)

  • 위재선;나수임
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.441-454
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    • 2004
  • This article aimed at semiotically analyzing and encoding the characteristics of Pop. Artistic style of a dress in the 2000's, and understanding social and cultural meaning to characteristics revealed at modern style of a dress. As research methods, Pop. Art factors were adjusted to non-individuality, openness, eroticism, parody through precedent research comparing and considering Pop. art, and 61 photos were selected, and they were analyzed into signifier and signified. It's analysis results are as follows. Non-individualistic image revealed modern style of a dress was intensively indicated at the pattern aspect of Pop. Art style of a dress, and any remarkable characteristics were not shown at the form aspect. Non-individuality was actively and progressively expressed due to the effect of the 2000's trends to pursue of frank desire, artistic and sensual life. For open image revealed at modern style of a dress, the characteristics were intensively highlighted at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at textile and pattern aspect, and notable signifier did not turn up. Pop. Artistic eroticism in the 2000's could be seen to unconditionally expose, or commercialize sex, but fashionably and gorgeously re-interpret it, which was found that the expression to women was changed in a free and emotionally-oriented way by the influence of feminism, expansion of feministic thought and optimism on New-millenium. At parody, simple and humorous parody rather than deep intended or heavy mattered one was seen, which means the effect of the 21st culture pursuing pleasure, fun and humor appeared as an positive parody phenomenon. It is found that the Pop. Art style of a dress in the 2000s shows up as a feministic, bright, cheerful Pop. Art in that it creates exaggerated harmony mixed with decorativeness ad functionalism, and pursue for frank desire and reflects optimistic trend of New Millenium seeking for fun and humor.

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A Study on the Effective Symbolic Expression Methods of Uniform Design (유형별 유니폼 디자인의 효과적인 상징표현 방법)

  • Kim, Yun-Hee;Lee, Jae-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.8 s.108
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    • pp.148-159
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    • 2006
  • The objective of this study is to consider the uniform as visual communication, and analyze the expression of symbol shown on the uniform design by the pattern by applying the visual symbol in the communication and operation of the meaning. Also, it is to construct the systematic modeling method of the expression of design symbol by the pattern of uniform in th e various fields. This study is to analyze the symbolic expression method of the uniform design by the pattern by suggesting the symbolic expression method as a frame through the visual symbolic approach of the uniform design and the analysis of semantic symbol according to that. As a result, there arose simplification and emphasis and a method of symbolic expression with the national flag, a conceptual factor characteristically in the sports uniform design. The characteristics of symbolic expression of uniform design were mainly used in the symbolic expression with the customary code and symbol. Also, the uniform in the enterprises were widely used in the expression of uniform with the suggestion and code by the color. As for the characteristics of symbolic expression shown on the event uniform design, the method of symbolic expression by the pattern of uniform was grasped differently asa result of symbolic expression through the image. The method of symbolic expression suggested on this study could be used on a basis of uniform design in the future. Accordingly, this study has a meaning of suggesting the methodology of uniform design that would be a parameter.

A Study on the Characteristics of Mediation in Fashion Culture Contents Found in Transmedia - Focusing on Modern Fashion since the 20th Century - (트랜스미디어에 나타난 패션 문화 콘텐츠의 매개특성 연구 - 20세기 이후 현대 패션사를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Hyangja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.4
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    • pp.131-152
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.