• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.83-94
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• 2006

In this era of ubiquitous service, a computing device has functions similar with human beings. It influences all major fields of human life, such as clothing, dieting and housing. In order to use the coordination functions of the magic mirror, which might be a basic part of clothing in the era of ubiquitous service, this study concentrates on product information that should be inputted in RFID chip in detail in order to exercise virtual fashion coordination. Information should be inputted in RFID chip to use magic mirror for fashion coordination, a direction for doing this was also suggested. After coding the suggested clothing items, virtual fashion coordination was implemented as a fashion illustration. This study is as following, First, sorts standard code for suitable coordination in 4 images and presented to a proof. Code denoted by 10 characters. Each code literal special quality marks by two characters and divided by season, image, fabric, item, rotor, five items. Item middle of characters of 10 code, when agree on article more than 8, coordination is enabled. Secondely, It is presented by coordination to dressing action picture by suitable coordination classified apart in whole occasions, and coordination method by wearer inclination is remembered wearer's dressing action picture to Magic mirror including layered look. Thirdly, wardrobe of Magic mirror clothes that always buy newly in magic mirror, is washing and clothes that do not take to wardrobe did to be controlled. Fourth, Wealth and schedule is suggested firster than wearer's dressing action.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.91-105
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• 2015

This paper accomplishes the following points: First, the costume style held by women in the Silla dynasty are examined. Second, a new fashion concept is drawn from Silla's costume images with lessons from analyzing how major brands from China and Japan have adopted their own traditional images. Third, a Korean fashion concept is crafted to reflect important modern fashion design factors. The conclusions of this study are: The concept of Korean fashion using Silla costume image based on the 2015 S/S trend was developed and suggested as: 'Harmony of Contrast', new beauty created by mutually contrasting things; 'Timeless' transcending time-space flowing from the past, present, to future; 'Empathy' where past and present are harmonized; 'Modern with Antique' expressing a new style modernism where the old retains value. The efforts to express identity via conceptualization of Korean fashion are an effective strategy that satisfies the goals of setting Korea's fashion design apart from others and spreading Korean culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.59-77
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• 1998

This paper is focused on the traditional sash weaving handicraft of‘She’ethnic group, which is located in Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Guangdong province of China. This research is main-ly based on the field work, analyzed and inter-preted the traditional sash in systematic and reasoned way. The summary of this study are as follows : 1. On its technological aspect, weaving structure of the traditional sash is made of warp rod backed weaving. The used tool is primitive one but the weaving process includes scientific method. 2. From the social-cultural point of view, the sash ha been the symbol of love towards her lover. Every woman of this group had taken training for this sash weaving from a child. 3. On its ethnological aspect, it has been long history and has interchanged with other ethnic group like Miao, Han and also Okinawa country of Japan. The pattern inside this sash are almost looks like characters, but they are not Chinese characters whereas are the inde-pendent code of‘She’ group and have been inherent from ancestors and which will be tran-smitted to their posterity. These independent code of‘She’group are the traditional message to their later generation implicating their natural circumstances, human relationship, ethnic myth, spirit etc. 4. I recognize that the pattern inside the sash is defined as the communicative code and in comparison to language, it is more repetition and less apparent as close code. Nowadays China has been developed es-pecially in the economical fields rapidly. Under the circumstances traditional weaving culture of ethnic groups has been facing a crisis of disappearance, which will be a great loss for the country as well as the human beings. For this reason, I emphasize that it is very immediate to make co-researches into the material culture of Chinese ethnic groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.168-179
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• 1999

In order to settle down structural causes of the process of distribution and apparel production in domestic fashion industry, and to raise competitive power with changing market environment, we need to bulid up Quick Response(QR) system based on information technology such as EDI(Electronic Data Interchange), KAN(Korea Article Number), and POS(Point of Sales), POS is the most valuable information tool to promote QR system paractically. The purpose of this study was to investigate motivation of POS adoption, problems in operating the system, and satisfaction on POS effects. Data were collected by sending questionnaire to the managers in apparel firms which were using POS. Statistical devices were t-test, frequency with SAS program. The results fo the study were as follows: 1. The degree of satisfaction to POS effects was rather good. Especially, rapid evaluations on new products gave the greatest satisfaction to the users. 2. Satisfaction degree of POS effects according to introduces time and organization characteristic(number of employees) have no significant difference, but the firms which have higher annual sales volume showed higher satisfaction degree. Merchandise department showed higher satisfaction on POS effects. 3. The motivation of POS adoption was an effective logistics control with consumer information as a marketing strategy. The problems in operating the system were lack of investment, and professionals. They almost didn't have KAN code, instead, have their own code system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Recently population of figure skating is growing fast, so that the needs for girls figure skating wear of better quality and better fit is growing too. As the characteristics of figure skating require both strong stretching and grace movements, the skating wears should be designed to have sufficient extensibility and impressive effects through body movements. In order that the figure skating wear should be fit well by using right sizing systems. The purpose of this study is to find out how the figure skating wear specialists are using their sizing system. There were two separate comparative studies in this article. One is to compare girls' sizing system between countries such as USA, UK, Japan and Korea. This is to look into the characteristics of girls body measurements than adults or other ages. The other is to compare sizing systems of 88 figure skating wear specialists from 8 countries. As a results, it is suggested that there should be a practical sizing systems for figure skating wear, which uses common size code, measurements definition and size interval.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.147-160
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• 2012

The costumes as an expression system in film are inserted intentionally for a particular purpose. Costumes in film, namely the cinematic dress code, and that in reality are dissimilar in meaning structure. The costumes in film perform a role of a complicated eye-catcher in correlation with the other filmic factors. But the previous studies on the costumes in film are focused on the keywords 'fashion style', 'fashion trend', or 'PPL (product placement)'. In film studies, however, the costumes should be observed from the point of view as semiosis, not as fashion, in other words, from the angle of symbol, icon and index. And the meaning and the process of the communication, which that produce, should be pointed out. It could expose, that costumes play one of the key roles for the developing of narratives and the creating of characters in film. Therefore, this study's aim is to examine the semiosis of costumes in film and to analyse the dress code, dress plot, and dress message in (1990) by Garry Marshall. But this work does not try to indicate the problems of the film-semiotics or to intensify the concept of the semiotic terminology. Thus, this study attempts to approach the theme of costumes in film from the perspective of the semiosis and its meaning process. With this, it has been proved, that semiotic systems are in hiding beyond the conventional forms of cinematic costumes and its natural harmony with characters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.53-53
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• 2003

These new Phenomenon influences with the new terminology 'fusion' on the way of our life in all areas of our society including the clothes and foods. Along with post-structuralism, which aims at diversification and senses deconstructionalism is a characteristic of this time post-structuralism is based upon the deconstructionalism. Especially the arts in the modern society which is called an information-oriented society lack the totality of a text and become fragmentary, and therefore it follows that traditional values are destroyed and at last a new code such as fusion which is incomprehensible if we would be in monolinear perspective.