• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 1982

The creation of clothing is a form of aesthetic expression through which feelings and ideas are conveyed. This study tried to find out the mental world and aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt through the costume of the period. The beauty of human body was esteemed and expressed in body exposure, tight costumes and transparent fabrics. Through the silhouette of costume, wig and accessories, the beauty of simplicity was expressed. And the beauty of harmony was sought through the beauty of balance and emphasis. The aesthetic consciousness of Ancient Egypt is the refined elegance and it was composed on the basis of the ideas of nature worship and had been preserved by the spirit of traditionism for about 3, 000 years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.41-57
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 20th century＇s makeup according to aesthetic categories. On the basis of aesthetic theories, four category pairs were determined as inter-confronting aesthetic categories: beauty of utility vs. beauty of social aptness : beauty of decoration vs. beauty of construction : sublime vs. grace : classical beauty vs. romantic beauty. 20th century＇s makeup was analyzed at the interval of 10 years referring to the images of actresses in the films produced in Hollywood and European countries. It was identified that 20th century＇s makeup had changed from decorative and dramatic makeup to natural makeup as the century proceeded. Consequently, beauty of social aptness, beauty of decoration. sublime, and romantic beauty were emphasized in the early 1900s while beauty of utility. beauty of construction, grace, classical beauty were emphasized in the later 1900s. In the whole 20th century, grace is the most dominant beauty among eight aesthetic categories due to it connote femininity. As the variety of fashion increases. the makeup patterns has become more diversified in recent years.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2013

This paper is focused on practical research regarding costume design and arts management that make use of local resources and which are influenced by local culture of Tokuji in Yamaguchi-city, located in a mountainous area in Yamaguchi Prefecture in the western part of Honshu in Japan. We will examine possibilities in fashion design through this study. This was a practical research project, done with cooperation between the university and local industry, with priorities being assigned by the requests of residents of the Tokuji area. In 2011 the Aurinko, Tokuji, Talo (it means the Solar Tokuji Building in Finnish) was decided as the base of activities. Other functions were gradually added on, including a salon for people of the area to exchange ideas and workshops for group discussions. This paper will specifically be focused on the handmade paper peculiar to Tokuji and traditionally used as a material in fashion. The fashion designs developed by this researcher's laboratory were strongly influenced by these styles of paper. These costumes were made with a handmade paper called "Kamiko" in Japan, that is aesthetic sense has been historically cherished. This paper suggests that the affluence and depth of costume design may be expressed not only by directly borrowing from these influences, but also by borrowing the traditional aesthetic sense original to Japan. Thus this paper will examine industry and culture simultaneously, examining in particular the impact of arts management and costume design using handmade paper manufactured locally.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.157-173
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• 2001

In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.106-106
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.83-85
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• 2005