• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.30-38
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• 2018

Glycolic acid(GA) is well known the most effective cosmetic ingredient on the epidermal remodeling, accelerated desquamation and inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. The various cosmetic formulations containing GA have not been reported in terms of stability. This study was to investigate the stability of three formulations(gel, cream, and ointment). The stability of obtained formulations was tested chemical and physical characteristics including the composition stability, hot-cool cycling, the variation of pH and viscosity, and the observation of color and odor. The experimental results showed that the gel and cream containing 5% GA, both formulations have proper stability in the centrifugal test, hot-cool cycling test, viscosity, pH stability and the observation of color and odor. On the other hand, the 5% GA ointment did not have stability. We concluded that the formulations of gel and cream are more suitable than ointment to use GA ingredient for developing cosmetic in terms of stability.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2022

Wearing a mask is still advised since COVID-19 continues to spread. However, masks may also irritate the skin and cause mask acne, often known as "maskne", which is a type of acne mechanica caused by friction between the skin and clothing. Therefore, there is a need to develop an effective maskne cosmetic. In this study, we made the maskne cosmetics containing humulus lupulus extract and copper tripeptide-1 and investigated its stability and safety. To measure stability, a centrifugation test and heat-cool cycling were done, and changes in viscosity and pH were measured for 8 weeks. The Cumulative Irritation Test (CIT, WKIRB-202111-HR-096) was performed and positive reactions were determined by the ICDRG criteria. The results indicated that the samples were stable after centrifugation, temperature cycling, viscosity, and pH tests. In addition, cosmetic safety test results revealed that maskne cosmetics containing humulus lupulus extract and copper tripeptide-1 did not cause any skin responses. These findings indicate that prepared maskne cosmetics' stability and safety were comparable to those of currently available commercial cosmetics.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.293-298
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• 2003

This study was attempted to develop the physicochemical ad morphological stability test methods for the cream and lotion formulations among the cosmetic foundations and to provide the guidance for the stability methods with respect to basic emulsions and creams. With these developed stability test methods, we can evaluate the expired date or life time of the available basic cosmetics, especially basic lotions ad creams. Also, the stability test methods established in this study can be used as a guideline to test physical and morphological stability of cosmetics in the future. Thus, we selected two types of basic cosmetics such as lotions and creams made by four different cosmetic companies ad applied them to the stability test methods depending on the temperature changes such as temperature cycling and freezing-thawing cycling test. After the temperature changes, the conductivity, turbidity, particle size, creaming ratio and pH changes of the creams and lotions were evaluated and morphological changes such as crystal formation, odor, color and feeling of the creams and lotions were also tested. As the results of the stability tests, all the tested creams and lotions except for one lotion were stable. Therefore, it may be concluded that these short-term accelerated stability tests as physical stability test depending on the temperature change study were suitable for the stability testing methods for the basic cosmetics and may be useful for the establishment of the guideline for the stability test of cosmetics.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.610-613
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 삼백초 추출물 25%, 뽕나무 줄기추출물 20%, 닥나무 줄기추출물 20% 등을 함유한 복합수목추출물의 화장품소재로서의 이용가능성을 검토하였다. 소재 시험으로는 세포독성시험, 엘라스타제 억제효과시험, 티로시나제 억제효과시험, 항산화효과시험 및 온도 안정성시험이 실시되었다. 복합수목추출물은 세포독성이 낮았으며, 우수한 엘라스타제 억제효과와 항산화효과를 보여주었으나 티로시나제 억제효과는 다소 낮았다. 추출물을 함유한 스킨, 로션 및 에센스 제형을 제조하여 온도 안정성시험 결과 스킨과 에센스 제형은 우수한 안정성을 보여주었으나 로션은 상분리가 관찰되고, 점도의 변화가 심하여 제형의 변경이 필요한 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 삼백초 추출물, 뽕나무 추출물 및 닥나무 추출물을 함유한 복합수목추출물은 화장품소재로서 응용 가능성이 높음을 알 수 있었다.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 1999년도 IFSCC . ASCS 학술대회 발표 논문
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide (Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of [$^3H$]-proline incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area: $1, 766{\;}\textrm{cm}^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used The stabilities of retlnoids were evaluated at two different temperature ($25{\;}^{\circ}C$ and $40{\;}^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in OW emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.231-237
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• 2012

오미자 씨 오일의 화장품 소재로서 가능성을 평가하기 위해 GC와 GC/MSD를 사용하여 안정성 평가 및 성분 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 주요성분은 팔미틱산과 올레익산으로 나타났다. 오미자 씨 오일은 열에 의한 성분변화가 없고, 소재 자체의 안정성이 뛰어난 것으로 나타났다. 또한, DPPH(1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) 라디칼 소거능 실험을 통하여 항산화 효능을 측정한 결과 오미자 씨 오일이 마카다미아 오일과 올리브 오일에 비하여 높은 항산화 효능을 나타내었다. 콜라겐 합성능 또한 뛰어난 것으로 평가되었다. 따라서, 오미자 씨 오일은 화장품 소재용으로 유용하게 활용될 수 있는 가능성을 가진 것으로 평가되었다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.39-47
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• 1997

Retinol as well as RA is well known to have many beneficial effects on aged skin. But the skin irritation potential and unstable condition of the products containing them have been some problems in their cosmetic uses. So, retinol containing gel product was developed for less skin irritancy and more stability in cosmetic products. To examine the clinical effects of retinlo containing product, we used cilnicla non-invasive assessment techniques on 40 volunteers for 6 months maintaining double-blind test conditions. According to our results, the use of retinol containing product improved skin color and hydration level slightly. But there was no statistical differences. There was no erythema reaction compared to the use of RA. Especially, the skin elasticity increased above 20% and skin wrinkles of crows' feet region decreased more than 10%. Besides the instrumental analysis, a large majority of volnteers felt that their skin were improved in the case of wrunkles, elasticity, hydration and color.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.126-135
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• 2011

Various herbal medicinal extracts were examined for the development of cosmetic products with anti-oxidative and anti-wrinkle activity. First, total polyphenol contents and DPPH radical scavenging activities of herbal medicinal extracts were measured. Most herbal samples, except for DW extracts of Portulaca oleracea, Caesalpinia sappan, Taraxacum platycarpum, Carthamus tinctorius, and 70% EtOH extracts of Taraxacum platycarpum and Carthamus tinctorius, showed DPPH radical scavenging activity over 80% at a concentration of $400{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. SOD-like antioxidant activity of DW extracts of Syzygium aromaticum, DW extracts of Eriobtrya japonica and 70% EtOH extracts of Sophora japonica was measured as 40%, 35% and 80%, respectively at a dry matter concentration of $50{\mu}g/m{\ell}$. In elastase inhibition assay, DW extracts of Lycium chinense ($50{\mu}g/m{\ell}$) and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu ($50{\mu}g/m{\ell}$) showed 50% and 40% of inhibition, respectively. At a concentration of $1.250{\mu}g/m{\ell}$, DW extracts of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu showed 10% and 30% of collagenase inhibition, respectively. Skin and lotion samples were prepared using the two herbal extracts of high anti-wrinkle activity: Lycium chinense extract and Areca catechu extract. The storage stability of skin and lotion containing each of the selected herbal extracts was evaluated. pH and viscosity were used as stability indicators for the stability test under different storage temperatures and freeze-thaw cycle conditions. The skin and lotion containing each of DW extract of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu was showed high pH and viscosity stability. The skin and lotion containing DW extracts of Lycium chinense showed relatively higher stability than the skin and lotion containing 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu, at cycle chamber and freeze-thaw conditions. In summary, these results indicated that cosmetics containing DW extract of Lycium chinense were relatively stable, and this herbal extract could be used as a stable functional cosmetic material.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.227-232
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• 2008

화장품용 천연계면활성제를 개발하기 위해 도라지(platycodon grandiflorum) 껍질에서 유기용매를 이용하여 추출물을 얻었다. 도라지 추출물의 화장품용 계면활성을 측정하기 위해 계면장력, 용해도, 기포력, 분산력, 유화력, 유화활성, 유화안정성을 측정하였고 피부자극을 평가하기위해 첩포시험을 실시하였다. 도라지 사포닌 함량이 0.005 wt%일 때 castor oil에 대한 계면장력은 11.5 dyn/cm로 비교대상인 Tween 40이나 quillaja bark보다 낮은 계면활성을 보여주었다. 도라지 추출물은 화장품에 유상으로 사용되는 olive oil, soybean oil, canola oil에 대해서도 우수한 유화활성과 유화안정성을 나타내었다. 2~5%의 도라지 추출물과 글리세린을 사용한 피부자극 시험에서는 도라지 추출물은 약간의 피부자극을 보여 주었다. 결론적으로 도라지 추출물은 화장품용 계면활성력은 양호하나 다소의 피부자극을 보여주었다.