• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.441-445
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• 2009

In order to develop an intelligent delivery system for cosmetic active agents (e.g., arbutin, ascorbic acid, and adenosine), pH-responsive P(MAA-co-PEGMA) hydrogel particles having an average size of approx. $2{\mu}m$ and spherical shape were synthesized via dispersion photopolymerization. There was a drastic change in the swelling ratio of P (MAA-co-PEGMA) hydro gels at a pH 5, which is the $pK_a$ of the hydrogel. To determine the factors that have an effect on the loading of cosmetic active agents into the hydrogel, the loading efficiency of the active agents was investigated at various MAA and EG compositions of the hydrogel and the loading pH conditions. When the MAA contents in the hydrogel decreased, the loading efficiency of the active agents increased. In loading experiments with different pH conditions, the active agents showed higher loading efficiency into the hydrogel at the pH where the hydrogel was at the swollen state than at the pH where the electrostatic repulsion was minimized.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.35-44
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• 2006

Recently, encapsulation studies have been tarried out to protect active agents using shell materials such as polymers, lipids, inorganic materials and the other protective materials. We have prepared copolymers of methylmethacrylate (MMA) and trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate (TMPMA), and the copolymers as shell materials were used for encapsulating active agents. Poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) spheres were very efficient for encapsulating active agents such as vitamin derivatives (such as retinol, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) and oil soluble licorice extract etc. Mean diameters of poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres containing active agents varied between about 0.1 to $10{\mu}m$ according to the experimental conditions. The loading amount of encapsulating active agents was 15 to 25% (w/w) and the loading yield was above 90%. The stability of active agents in poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres prepared with an UV absorbing precursor increased by 25% compared with that of active agents in spheres prepared without an UV absorbing precursor.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.63-70
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• 1997

It has been observed that local increase in melanin synthesis or uneven distribution can cause local hyperpigmintation or spot. Pigmentary disorders are caused by various factors, including inflammation, imbalance of hormones, and genetic disorder. Recently the harmfulness of Ultraviolet radiation is increasing due to destruction of ozone layer. Excessive exposure to UV radiation caused post-inflammatory pigmentation. Most women want to avoid uneven skin pigmentation. To satisfy this desire many cosmetic companies have been developing melanogenesis inhibitors and finding promising active agents for use in cosmetic preparations for skin whitening. In cosmetic preparations, many inhibitors such as kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid, and licorice extracts6 have been used as whitening purpose. Plant extracts having an inhibitory effect on melanin formation may be a good choice for cosmetic purpose because of their relatively lower side effects. Therefore, we screened 285 plant extracts for their inhibitory activity in tyrosinase. Of the plant extracts, ramulus mori extracts showed potent tyrosinase inhibition activity. We also identified the active compound in the extract.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2012

In this review, the use of air bubbles in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations was discussed. The foam bubbles show different characteristics depending on the foaming agents and foam generating devices. The foam bubbles are generated in the form of dispersion of gas bubbles in a solvent. The assessment of stability and rheological properties of bubbles are the starting point for the formulation to be used. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses of bubbles are substantially growing, and the foam formulations of drugs can be used for rectal, vaginal, and dermal symptoms. The foam formulation is used in hair mousse, makeup foundation, and sunscreen cosmetics in basic cosmetics. Recently, a lot of studies and patents have been filed in stabilization of active ingredients and delivery of the active ingredient in terms of foam formulations. In the future, foam formulations are expected to be used as novel cosmeceutical formulations.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.386-392
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• 2014

The present study was aimed at investigating the antimicrobial activities of licorice's active ingredients. Four samples of licorice ingredients (glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, liquiritigenin, and isoliquiritigenin) were evaluated for their antimicrobial activities against six skin microorganisms. The bioassay applied for determining the antimicrobial effects employed a disc diffusion assay, the minimum inhibitory concentration, and the challenge test. The ingredients showed antibacterial activities. Especially, isoliquiritigenin has significant antimicrobial activities against two Gram-positive (Bacillus subtilis, Propionobacterium acnes) and two Gramnegative (Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) bacteria. These samples had much higher antimicrobial activities than synthetic preservatives. Our results reveal that liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin could be useful compounds for the development of antibacterial agents for the preservation of cosmetics and foods. The two flavonoids, liquiritigenin and isoliquiritigenin, sourced from Korea, China, Uzbekistan, were quantified using HPLC. The results demonstrated that Korean licorice has two flavonoids (liquiritigenin, isoliquiritigenin) in much higher quantities than was observed in the licorice obtained from the two other countries. Thus, isoliquiritigenin and Korean licorice extract represent new candidates for antimicrobial agents.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.207-217
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• 2015

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.383-390
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• 2020

Blue light is a blue-based light existing at a wavelength between 380 and 450 nm, and it has been reported that it induces active oxygen and causes aging, and accordingly, interest in the blue light blocking effect is increasing. In this study, the effects of the polarity of oil, viscosity of the formulation, type of emulsifier, emulsified particles, and inorganic UV blocking agents on the blue light blocking effect in UV blocking products were investigated. As a result, it was confirmed that the blue light blocking rate increased as the polarity of the oil became similar to that of the organic UV blocker, and the higher the viscosity of the formulation, the higher the blue light blocking rate. The types of emulsifiers and emulsified particles had little effect on the blue light blocking effect, and the presence of inorganic UV blocking agents was found to be one of the factors that greatly influenced the blue light blocking rate. These results can effectively increase the efficiency of blocking blue light, and may be used in the development of blue light blocking products and formulation research in the future.

• Proceedings of the KAIS Fall Conference
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• 2012.05a
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• pp.182-186
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• 2012

human tyrosinase (hTyr) catalyzes first and the rate limiting step in the synthesis of polymerized pigment, melanin which determines skin, hair and eye colors. Mutation of hTyr often brings about decrease of melanin production and further albinism. Meanwhile, a number of cosmetic companies providing skincare products for woman in Asia-Pacific region have tried to develop inhibitors to bright skin color for several decades. In this study, we built a 3D structure by comparative modeling technique based on the crystal structure of tyrosinase from bacillus megaterium as a template to serve structural information of hTyr. According to our model and sequence analysis of type 3 copper protein family proteins, two copper atoms of active site located deep inside are coordinated with six strictly conserved histidine residues coming from four-helix-bundle. Cavity which accommodates substrates was like funnel shape of which entrance was wide and expose to solvent. In addition, protein-substrate and protein-inhibitor complex were modeled with the guide of van der waals surface generated by in house software. Our model suggested that only phenol group or its analogs can fill the binding site near nuclear copper center because inside of binding site has narrow shape relatively. In conclusion, the results of this study may provide helpful information for designing and screening new anti-melanogensis agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2021

In this study, we analyzed the cosmetic applicability of extract from snow tea, native to Lijiang, Yunnan-province, China. After confirming the species as N. grossedentata through DNA analysis of Lijiang snow tea, experiments were conducted using representative tea, green tea, and a representative control group for each efficacy analysis. Both teas were extracted using 70% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution. The polyphenol content in the Lijiang snow tea extract (gallic acid equivalent, 23.9 ± 3.2 mg/mL) was higher than that in green tea extract (16.4 ± 2.3 mg/mL). In contrast, the antioxidant (Radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 104 ㎍/mL), tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory (whitening agent, IC₅₀ 40.7 ㎍/mL), and Escherichia coli growth inhibitory (preservative) activities (IC₅₀ 2.85 mg/mL) were analyzed based on the solid content in the extract, and it was confirmed that the activities of Lijiang snow tea extract were superior to those of green tea extract (radical scavenging, IC₅₀ 234 ㎍/mL. It also showed similar efficacy to previously used active substances such as antioxidants (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 108 ㎍/mL), whitening agents (vitamin C, IC₅₀ 80㎍/mL), and preservatives (methylparaben, IC₅₀ 4.35 mg/mL). However, green tea was found to be better in collagenase inhibition activity (anti-wrinkle). Through this study, the cosmetic application potential of Lijiang snow tea is high.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

EtOAc fractions of Magnolia obovata (M. obovata) Bark extracts were studied for the potential ingredient as a safe and effective whitening cosmetic material. The concentration of active substances honokiol was determined by HPLC. In vitro, the fractions reduced the extracellular and intracellular melanin contents in B16F10 cells in dose dependently and inhibited extracellular melanin secretion ($IC_{50}=11.05{\mu}g/mL$). The $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 60% to the amount of extracullular melanin. Also, the $12.5{\mu}g/mL$ treatment of maximum concentration effectively inhibited up to about 59% to the amount of intracullular melanin ($IC_{50}=10.85{\mu}g/mL$). The $IC_{50}$ value of ${\alpha}-arbutin$ used as a positive control was $59.99{\mu}g/mL$. So, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed whitening effect when compared with the non-treatment group. In case of in vivo study, Cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts was approved by Ethics committee of KDRI (IRB number: KDRI-IRB-1537). As a result in progress for skin sensitization as well as assessment of skin irritation through repeated patch test, skin allergens was identified as non sensitizing agents. Also, cosmetic cream with EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts showed significant topical whitening effect and reliable skin safety when compared with the non-treatment group. In conclusion, EtOAc fractions of M. obovata Bark extracts may be a useful cosmetic ingredient for effective skin whitening.