• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.98-115
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• 2017

This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the planarization of the body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.99-112
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to create party wear of heroine Satine's image. This study analyzed the costume and its image of the film "Moulin Rouge" which the director Baz Luhrmann filmed the club 'Moulin Rouge' has existed in Paris, France. Catherine Martin, who got the Academy awards in movie costume and art director with this film, made the costume which was added more gorgeous and modern sense for the image beauty for costume in film from the costume design which appeared in the art work of Toulouse-Lautrec painted Moulin Rouge. In the costume form, S-silhouette robe with gored skirt was appeared as usual garment and gorgeous corset style costume which was outer garment like underwear exposed of the body, pleasant apolaustic and decorated excessively was appeared for costume design. Based on the above study, this study created the party wear of the graceful eroticism image and the prostitute eroticism image of heroine Satine. The costume design of Satine's image was planned along the character which was analyzed through this study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.114-129
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• 2006

This purpose of this study is to research on the influence on the creation of young generation's street fashion of pop stars focused on pop music given the fact that fashion can be created by popular culture in this multi-media era. Also, this study is to provide useful data for the activation of the creation of young fashion culture and the fashion industry through pop stars' fashion. The pop stars' fashion that has affected young street fashion is as follows : Elvis Presley's rock'n'roll style, Beatles' mods style, Janis Joplin's hippy style, Sex Pistols's punk style, Madonna's boy-toy and corset style, Michael Jackson's androgynous style, Puff Daddy and L.L Cool J's hip-hop style, Bob Marley's reggae style, Spice Girls, Jennifer Lopez and Britney Spears's sexy style. The young street fashion culture of pop stars and its industrial meaning withdrawn from the above are as follows : Creation of a fashion icon, Creation of anti-fashion, Liberation of a sex role, Costume play culture, Activation of the young fashion industry through star marketing.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.21-30
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• 2003

An underwear originated from when a human lost his purity and recognized his situation. But, it could not be sure when underwear and an outer garment were classified according to a function. An underwear has been used for a decorative and mental function, as well as a practical one. Also, it is the most fundamental medium to understand a human and a period. However, many studies on outer garments not an underwear have been done till now Therefore, this study was done to be arranged and analyzed materials scattered in order to give a correct understanding of an underwear as a clothes. The data were based on the existing fashion pamphlets, fashion magazines and other materials. The main results were as follows; Female's contemporary underwear was classified into Hosiery, Foundation and Lingerie. The Hosiery was again classified into chemise, combination, drawers and brief. The most typical hosiery was a chemise for a health and hygiene, and the drawers was adhered closely to a body. The Foundation which had a function to be well shaped was classified into Brassiere, Girdle, All in one, Body suit, Corset, Waist nipper and Garter belt. A typical contemporary foundation was a brassiere and a girdle. A brassiere had a role to support the breast up and A girdle compensate a hip area. The Lingerie which made body silhouette be vivid was classified into Slip, Panty, Wintum, Linge, Home lingerie, and so on. A slip, a panty and a lingo were typical lingeries. A slip made an outer garment be well-formed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.109-121
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• 2017

In this study, we proposed the Bustier which improves the fit and functionality to compensate the physical defects by maximizing the volume up effect using the breast detailed measurements and shapes of the poor breast female subjects. Based on the preliminary study of the problem and preference according to the characteristics of the poor breast women consumers, we produced 1/2 volume mold cups based on the previous research. Respectively. A total of 5 subjects were selected, and new 3 bustier patterns based on the pattern making system of industry were created through direct measurement and shapes. As a result of verifying the usability of the developed bustier by testing the commercially available bustiers and the newly developed bustiers for 5 subjects. In order to compare the existing bustiers with the newly developed bustiers, the appearance evaluation by the expert, the evaluation of the adaptability and satisfaction by the subjects were utilized. Through this experiment, the newly developed bustiers were superior in the evaluation of the motion adaptability and wear comfort as well as appearance test. It was shown that the wear effect of the bustier with the longest back length was the best.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.71-78
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• 1985

This research is designed to systemize the protection theory as well as to supplement the missing theory by organizing various studies on the protective functions of celothes by domestic and foreign scholers of clothing. Human environments is classified two standpoints : (1) Physical environments, and (2) man built psychological environments including socio-physical environments, socio-biological environments, behavioral environments, socio-psychological environments and institution environments. Clothes acting as a physical protection might be of (1) extreme air temperature: Parka; (2) high relative humidity: raincoat; (3) air movement: windbreaker; (4) radiation: space suit; (5) atmospheric pressure: deep sea diver suit; (6) mechanical agent: bullet proof vest; (7) physical agent: (8) chemical agent: (9) biological agent: surgeon's gown, cap, and mask. Also dresses act to support the body comfort, health and the well-being; corset for bad back patient, wrist band for people with weak wrist, bottom half of pressure suit for people with low blood pressure. Clothes acting as a psychological protection might be of (1) influence of magic and of spirits: (2) moral danger; (3) the general unfriendliness of the world as a whole; a reassurance against the lack of love. Clothes should provide the maximum of satisfaction in accordance with the full recognition of reality. The reality should aim at the formulation of general laws concerning the most pleasing forms, colors, and styles to suit. The complex physiological anatomical and psychological aspects of individual personalities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend western style in fashion and to contemplate the hybrid tendency reflected on western style, thereby to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of the hybrid tendency of western style. For such purposes, this study first examines western style historically, in order to analyze hybrid tendency reflected on western style, and conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials of pr t- -porter collection since 1980s. The result of this study is as follows: the hybrid tendency reflected on western style are modification and fusion of regional culture, adaptation and composition of subcultures, and appropriation of sexual minority culture. (1) Modification and fusion of regional culture is expressed in ethnic items and patterns of embroidery, mixing Mexican and Spanish, American Indian and American cultural references. (2) Adaptation and composition of subcultures emphasize traditional or vintage western style by mixing characteristics of western and other subcultures. (3) Appropriation of sexual minority culture is expressed in rhinestone chaps and fetish corset, glitter rodeo suit, reminiscent of drag or queer cultural references. The result of this study will provide basis which can be utilized in the development and educational background of fashion design.