• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
• /
• pp.570-577
• /
• 2003

The importance of cornified envelope (CE)-bound lipids to epidermal barrier function is increasingly being recognized. In the present study, we intentionally damaged the cornified layer of hairless mice by ultraviolet irradiation and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) treatment, and assessed the changes in epidermal barrier function by measuring Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). We also measured changes in the amount of CE-bound lipids using thin layer chromatography (TLC). The results showed that both treatments increased TEWL and decreased CE-bound lipids (omega-hydroxy cerami de and omega-hydroxy acid). In addition, investigation of the chronological changes in TEWL revealed an inverse relationship between TEWL and CE-bound lipids, and a correlation between CE-bound lipids and epidermal barrier function. We then measured the amount of CE-bound lipids in the cheek and the medial side of the upper arm in humans. The results showed that because the cheek receives external stimulation on a daily basis, the amount of CE-bound lipids was significantly lower, while the level of TEWL was higher. These observations, together with those from the animal study, indicate that CE-bound lipids are related to epidermal barrier function.

• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제43권4호
• /
• pp.329-335
• /
• 2017

Triterpenoid, saponin, 전분 등이 함유되어 있는 것으로 알려진 Adenophorae radix (A. radix)의 뿌리 추출물을 이용하여 각질형성세포의 분화와 피부장벽기능에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. A. radix의 뿌리 추출물은 CV-1 세포를 이용하여 $PPAR{\alpha}$ 발현을 살펴본 결과, Wy-14,643 $0.5-1.0{\mu}M$ 수준의 발현양을 나타내었다. 인체 각질형성 세포주(HaCaT)와 각질형성세포(nomal human keratinocyte)에 대한 각질형성능(cornified envelop formation, CE)은 대조군에 비해 통계적으로 유의한 증가를 보였다. HaCaT 세포에 A. radix의 뿌리 추출물 처리하였을 때, transglutaminase (TGase-1)의 유의적 증가를 보였다. A. radix의 뿌리 추출물을 함유한 간단한 화장품 제형을 약 2주간에 걸쳐 임상시험을 실시한 결과, TEWL의 유의적 감소와 수분량의 증가를 살펴볼 수 있었으며, 하박 내측에서 지질을 추출하여 세라마이드를 분석한 결과 통계적으로 유의한 증가를 관찰할 수 있었다. 이를 통하여 A. radix의 뿌리 추출물을 건조피부나 아토피 등의 피부질환과 관련된 질환의 예방 및 치료제로 사용될 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
• /
• 제40권6호
• /
• pp.1445-1453
• /
• 2023

In 2022, the domestic production performance of functional cosmetics in South Korea reached 4.6 trillion won, accounting for 33.85% of the total cosmetics production. The number of functional cosmetics reviewed increased by about 7.5% from the previous year, totaling 974 items. Especially with the increasing importance of the skin barrier function due to skin sensitivity caused by various environmental pollutants, domestic cosmetic companies are showing interest in the development of new ingredients and products related to this area. This study aims to analyze academic research trends related to in vitro experiments for the development of cosmetics improving the skin barrier, to provide practical information for the cosmetic industry. The findings are as follows: Academic research mainly focused on the efficacy of natural ingredients in improving the skin barrier, but there is a significant lack of quantitative accumulation of research. For the development of skin barrier-improving cosmetic ingredients, efficacy evaluation indicators were set, including hyaluronic acid production, expression of filaggrin gene, loricrin, formation of cornified envelope (CE), and expression of ceramide synthesis enzyme genes. Moreover, effective cosmetic ingredients for improving the skin barrier included lemongrass and perilla leaf extracts, flavonoids, Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis, Exosomelike Nanovesicles derived from apple callus, Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus, Acanthopanax sessiliflorus, Eleutherococcus gracilistylus, Acer okamotoanum extracts, Aloe vera adventitious root extract, ethanol extract of Aruncus dioicus, and organic solvent fraction of Dracocephalum argunense.