• Title/Summary/Keyword: contemporary women's fashion

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A Study on Balhae Beauty Culture (발해의 미용문화연구)

  • Suk, Eun-Kyoung;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.28-38
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    • 2008
  • Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.

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현대여성(現代女性)의 의복의식(衣服意識)에 관한 조사(調査) 연구(硏究) - 서울 지역(地域)의 양복(洋服) 착용자(着用者)를 중심(中心)으로 -

  • Lee, Hee-Myung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.2
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    • pp.73-88
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    • 1978
  • This article is an attempt to explain, at least in part, the contemporary Korean women's consciousness of Western Dreasses. As time changes, the role of clothing undergoes varisous transitions, while values and ways of life are constantly in change. It is, therefore, proper and appropriate to recognize as among the major aspects of social psychology such phenomenon as interests, understanding of clothing, the choice of a dress, and attitudes toward clothing, etc. The purpose of this study is to discover problems concerning and their clothing and their solutions, by means of a surveying approach. The method of research used is based upon questionares distributed to parents of first-year pupils in elementary schools and to female clerks working in offices, covering the period from August through October, 1976. The number of the questionares distrubuted totalled 600, and 526 were returned to the research to be utilized for analysis. The contents of the survey included such things as values concerning clothing, kinds of clothing and their practical use, the selection of clothing and the method of purchase, fashions, etc. The classification of aquisition are self-made clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made materials. It is composed of 25 items, including affirmative reasons as well as negative ones. The processing of the material returned was made by using the computer, and based upon classifications such as ages, monthly income, occupations; thus diagraming the result in percentages. The conclusion made and the improvements proposed are as follows: 1. The values of clothing were placed on the expression of the wearer's personality (32.7) and on eauty(28. 6%). The lower age group places is stress upon the expression of personality, while the higher age group stresses beauty. About 50% of wearers are contented with their clothing, their clothing, the rest of whom them indicating their dissatisfaction with what they wear. As to designs at the time of selection, about 46% indicated their preference of personal expression, 31.8% on usefulness. In selecting material, practicality is emphasized; in selecting patterns, single color is preferred. In short, personal expression and esthetic values are primary, with consideration of practicality in mind. 2. The classification of clothing according to their uses indicates the highest numbers in normal wear (home wears) and clothings to be worn outside home. As to evening dresses, (party dress) only one or two articles were checked by many, and no such article was clamed to be possessed by most. The highest ratio of wearing was shown in the case of home wear (47.3%) and clothing to be worn outside the home, which is 55.8%. The budget for one article of clothing was greatest in the case of home wear, and clothing worn outside the home. Many used both kinds of articles for the same purpose. It is desirable, therefore, that the kinds of clothing should be varied according to the purpose for which they are worn, and that clothing appropriate for that purpose should be worn. 3. The motivation for purchasing clothing was highly chosen in the item of seasonal change, which was 55.7%; Clothing deliberately made was indicated by 45.2%. In the mothods of purchasing clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made was indicated by 44.4%, which is the highest; Clothing made to order was 25.4%, and self-sewing was 1.1%, which is the lowest. (1) In the case of self-sewing, "I like it but it is very hard," was checked by 43.6%; "It is so difficult that I cannot wear such clothing" was checked by 13.3%. From these, we can conclude that the questionees are willing to make clothing by themselves, but techniques involved in sewing and at her problems involved in the skill are complicated but when those problems are eliminated there is a possibility for practice. The response checked by questionees concerning the self-sewing was, "It's economical", which is a clear indication that many questionees are positive for self-sewing. It is generally believed that ready-made clothing is cheaper, but it is not necessarily so. In consideration of the quality of clothing, self-sewing is a necessity, and it is desirable that it should be encouraged. (3) Problems involved in ready-made clothing, such as designs, skills, size (fitting) should be eliminated. When these problems are scientifically gotten rid of, it is possible that affirmative returns will be expected. Affirmative responses such as "Ready-made clothing is economical," "You can select there on the spot," are good signs that many women expect to wear ready-made clothing. It is in this sense that the prospect for ready-made clothing is brighter when much development for ready-made clothing is on the way. 4. Much concern for fashion are checked in such item of questions as "Fashionable clothing in the show window," "Clothes worn by women." The first item was checked by 50.1 %, and the second was checked by 48.6%. The reason for following fashion is "Because many people wear them," which was indicated by 30.4%. The reason for not following fashion is "It is too expensive," which was checked by 29.6%. The 26.2% of the answers indicated that "Fashionable clothing is devoid of personality," The influences of fashion over the development of fashion over the development of clothing are two-fold: Esthetic and active. It is not to be deniable that people follow fashion more or less. 1978.9>

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A Study on the Formative Aesthetics and Modern Application of Traditional Korean Knots (전통 매듭의 조형미와 현대적 활용실태)

  • Kim, Bo-Young;Geum, Key-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.10
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 2010
  • A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

A Study on the Formative Characters in the Pleat of Western Costume Before the 20th Century - Focusing on Men's Costume - (20세기 이전 서양복식사에 나타난 주름의 조형성 - 남성복을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Joo-Kyung;Geum, Key-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.2
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    • pp.26-39
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    • 2012
  • This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

Costume Culture and Customs of Ordinary People Appearing in Genre Painting During the Late Chosun Dynasty - focusing on Danwon Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop - (조선후기 풍속화에 나타난 민간의 생활유형별 복식문화와 사회상 - 단원 김홍도의 《풍속화첩》을 중심으로 -)

  • 양숙향;김나형
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.17-26
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    • 2004
  • Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

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A Mixture Phenomena Expressed in Contemporary Knit Fashion - Focus on Woman Collection from 2000 to 2008 - (현대 니트패션에 나타난 혼합현상 - 2000년~2008년 여성컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Moon-Hee;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.12
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    • pp.1924-1934
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    • 2009
  • Mixture phenomena are present in the overall culture due to internationalization in a modern society. A unique feel is required in materials due to the increasing demand for knit wear and there is a need for a strategic plan to achieve this. This study analyzed the appearance frequency and expressive characteristics of mixture phenomena based on selected data from collections related to the mixture phenomena trends in modern women's fashion from 2000 to 2008. Among the mixture phenomena, the mixture of the high and low class cultures had the highest frequency of occurrence and was expressed most often since the expansion of design areas was due to vague high and low concepts. The mixture of sexes showed the sharing of knit wear trends between the sexes with the pursuit of functionality. The mixture of styles showed a tendency to increase since the traditional form was transformed into a mixture of typical styles. The mixture of spaces showed a mixture of old and traditional knit wear patterns from Northern Europe and modern elements. The mixture of other materials showed the partial preceding mixture and the decorative materials that existed beyond it. The mixture of functions refers to the used characteristics of the two items. Imagination will grow and increase the possibility of expressions with the mixture of the other areas.

Design Development of Golf Wear Textiles utilizing Geometric Patterns (지오매트릭(Geometric) 패턴을 응용한 골프웨어 텍스타일 디자인개발)

  • Jung, Hyung-Ho;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.6
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    • pp.11-22
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    • 2010
  • Purpose: The purpose of this study is to develop golf wear textile design, produce simulation and samples, and create original designs using geometric patterns. Significance: If modern people's trend to pursue well-being is be associated with healthy and active lifestyle and the design which combines a sport sense into artistic image appears in golf wear, it is a very significant effort to settle the role of sport as a mega trend. Contents: This study examined the general concept of geometric patterns and the situation and characteristics of women's golf wear. Finally, the design and simulation of gold wear textile were proposed. Study Instruments: For theoretical research, articles, books, literatures, and Internet materials published at home and abroad were reviewed and collected. For empirical research, a dot, a stripe(a line), a square, and an oval were selected and simulation was tested visually after the development of textile designs. Finally it was directly produced and golf wear design was developed. Photoshop CS 3 and Wacom intuos 3 were used as a general-purpose program and hardware respectively. DTP printing was used for sample work. Based on research results, geometric patterns range broadly and diversely from prehistoric remains and relics to contemporary art, design, architecture, and fashion. It is a unique formative element with value and attraction as the infinite object of inquiry beyond an area and the times. The combination of geometric patterns with art touch could complement the rigidity of design. It contributed to the perception of important role of art in the design area, namely, the importance of design containing artistry.

Spatial Characteristics of Cultural Economy Emergence and Diffusion: Creative Retail Shops in Bukchon (문화경제의 발현과 확산의 공간적 특징: 북촌의 창의적 소매업을 중심으로)

  • Lee, Kyung-Ok;Lee, Keum-Sook
    • Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.23-38
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    • 2006
  • This study attempts to investigate the spatial characteristics of cultural economies of Bukchon in Seoul, where abundant cultural assets exist. This area has been the administrative-political core locale since 14C, therefore, a lot of traditional- and contemporary-cultural facilities are remains, This area possessed unique place characteristics by coexisting traditional and modern cultures, and thus attracted to culture demanders. Recently many economic activities have increased in this area, and most of them are related with the cultural elements of the region, In particular creative retail shops, which produce goods by flexible-specialized production system, have been agglomerated in this area, The goods are designed, produced, and sold at the shop place. Most of them are uniquely designed hand made products, and produced a few amount. The economic value of these products related with the cultural environment of Bukchon. These creative shops emerged at the front of Samcheongdong street in the beginning, and then have diffused into the inside of Samcheongdong street and Hwagae street. The shops have very unique exteriors related with traditional houses in this area, and located on roadsides where are not many passerby. Most owners of the retail stores are highly educated and studied design, and produce goods by themselves at the shops. The reason that they opened their shops in Bukchon is directly related with the unique cultural environment of this area. They hope that more unique and artistic stores join this area so that developed this area as culture and fashion combined area.

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