• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.99-113
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to compare the social image and the external image of a Korean woman in 1970s and find out that the make-up can provide an important clue to examine the image of a woman in a given period. The research scope covered 10 top news of the daily newspapers and articles of women's magazines. A focus was made to an analysis on words and photos from them. The relationship of each image scale was examined by comparing the linguistic image scale and the visual image scale. The results were as follows : First, a frugal and tidy image. It was the look of our tidy, simple, traditional and classic woman. Second, an image of a cute and pure lady of refined manners. In 1970s, women were supposed to be 'a loving wife', a cultured female image with a faithful role of a 'wise mother' and a lady of refined manners as the best value. Third, a frivolous and decadent image. Double-faced image of a woman which included the women, who had to live as the lady of refined manners during the daytime and seductive woman during the night. Fourth, an image of a contemporary working woman. It was the image as a chic, confident and dignified working woman requested by the society of the times. Namely, it can be understood that women had a make-up of a soft and gorgeous tone as an expression of a will to keep a confident and female aspect in the course of working in the society by the women experiencing 1970s, the turbulent period. Consequently, it is possible to understand that the make-up was utilized as a means to express an ideal beauty of the time pursuant to the historical background or feature.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.29-37
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• 2010

Contemporary fashion emphasizes artistic, decorative aspects beside functional, practical targets, and pursues various materials. Also, rising of the design-based tendency, using the various tonality, texture and unveiling the new processing method, decorating technology and a new-material have made the ornaments as one of the figure that expose aesthets and individuality of designers and owner. With its unique expression and artistic beauty the design of ornament pervaded their field to figurative arts. This study aimed at the weaving technique using a hooked needle which is a crochet, and the making manufactured skirts item, moreover the study focused on putting the skirts item into the ornaments of the crochet. The skirt, which was thought to belong to women only, made easy and economic goods. Consumer also wanted to feel free and comfortable as manufactured items did, and it added individuality and practical use. This research tried to develop the design of crochet items to supplement the higher value-added, after examining the theoretical background of crochet, and analyzing crochet trend from 2005-06 F/W to 2010 S/S. As the result, it could be seen that the crochet may offer contemporary ornament art expressing formativeness of handcraft and fineness to the era of replica and manufactured goods.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.776-793
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• 2014

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1325-1336
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• 2009

This study is to find the interpretation of Korean aesthetics with emotional, relative, synthetic thinking in the ambiguity of characteristics of multi-culturalism and ambivalence in contemporary beauty design. Beauty design incorporates makeup and hair design to complete the total images with clothing in fashion shows and Korean aesthetics based on Korean religion and art that include the symbolism of humor, irregularity, moderation, harmony, unification, and emptiness. This study analyzes 864 works of make-up and hair design from 2001 S/S to 2009 F/W to understand the beauty design to summarize the natural, eclectic, classic, poor, humor, and decadent tendencies. The characteristics of aesthetics sense of Beauty Design are summarized as artless naturalism, integrate pluralism, de-constructive deviation, and temperate poverty.