• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.39
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• pp.357-392
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• 2019

This paper reexamines the formation process of Ch'anggŭk, Korea's musical drama based on p'ansori in the 1930s, focusing on the Ch'anggŭk gramophone records and the repertoire of the Chosŏn Sŏngak Yŏn'guhoe(Korean Vocal Music Association). The paper discussed the achievements and limitations of the Chosŏn Sŏngak Yŏn'guhoe which was at the center of the formation of Ch'anggŭk by examining the activities of the Chosŏn Sŏngak Yŏn'guhoe in the 1930s. The role of 'ipche-chang' and 'narrator' in the Ch'anggŭk gramophone records was seen as Ch'anggŭk imagination that was realized by the members of the Chosŏn Sŏngak Yŏn'guhoe who recognized the 'dramatic space and stage', which is distinct from p'ansori, Korean traditional vocal and percussion music. In addition, the paper discussed the difference and meaning of the concept of 'Sin-Ch'anggŭk' between Seo Hang-Seok and Song Seok-Ha, which is derived from the Ch'anggŭk formation. The performance of stage Ch'anggŭk in the 1930s was a repetition of the discussion that it should reach a point of Kagŭk, music or song dramas. This paper discussed the process of replacing the term 'Ch'anggŭk' with 'Kagŭk' at the time, and examined the way Ch'anggŭk stage was established as a perfect form during the process. The formation of Ch'anggŭk by members of the Chosŏn Sŏngak Yŏn'guhoe could be an important achievement in the history of Ch'anggŭk, but there was no choice but to reveal the limitation in the formal aspect due to the 'refinement' and 'exclusion' according to the cultural policy of Japan. P'ansori musicality was enhanced, but it could not contain the spirit and diversity of the times, so it could be said that there was no choice but to stop as a rudimentary creative imagination of Ch'anggŭk. Ch'anggŭk is a genre that is inherently limited, but the limitation can be overcome over the times, which will be covered in a subsequent paper.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.49-58
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• 2005

Focusing on the information sender, message, channel, and receiver, the existing information theory deals with the noise, information contents, and probability of choice, which involve in the process of information transmission. In the current digital environment, besides simply conveying information itself through media, the important issue is how to efficiently convey information. Therefore, we need to analyze the theory in different perspective, and to research the Information redundancy for the methodology of information design. The redundancy causes the receiver to have attraction to the information and to reduce its contents due to its supplement and repetition. So it can play a role of efficient communication method. The concept of redundancy is applied to the communication of art such as literature, architecture, painting, and design to accomplish efficient communication. In order to get persuasive information design for the receiver's perspective we need to make use of this concept. The redundancy can be applied with the technical aspect of multimedia and Interaction, which add supplemental expression, or sort of event for the receiver's experience and memory. In the process of constructing information it can be applied with the structure of gaming redundancy, entropy, the accumulating communication code using entertaining feature, and storytelling methodology. The noise and entropy could be used for the means of making redundancy, not the obstacle to information. The redundancy gives the receiver attraction on the information and makes them have strong will of interpreting it so that the purpose of conveying information will be accomplished efficiently.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.229-242
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• 2007

In Japan, a country renowned for her traditional respect for handicraft, superior craft techniques have been transmitted from generation to generation. Modern Japanese textiles reinterprete these traditional techniques in a new light and combine them with modern technology, to make modern Japanese industrial textile both futuristic and traditional simultaneously. This combining of new technology and handicraft serves as a reservoir for a remarkable diversity and originality in the development of new technology and design, and constitutes an important trend in modern industrial textiles. The aim of this study is to investigate the developmental background of Japanese textile industry that championed this trend to make the Japanese development unique in modern textile industries and to consider the concept of modern textiles as well as the structural innovation as represented by this new trend, thus contributing to the development of creative textiles for the present and the future. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows. The combining of new technology and traditional handicraft: 1) was made possible by Japanese consciousness that values traditional culture and by early recognition of advanced textile industry, which awarded new meaning and value to the traditional handicraft leading to an expanded social role for textiles. 2) helped construct a modern concept of textiles by pursuing textile media that are state-of-the-art, aesthetic, and highly sensitive to satisfy the requirements of modern industrial textile such as high quality, high performance, and high sensitivity. 3) enabled new design ideas and creation of new styles by implementing structural innovation in industrial textiles that involved diversification of expression, diversity in materials, and emphasis on texture. In short, by combining new technology and traditional handicraft, Japan came up with a new sense of aesthetics that is highly original and high level and with which the rest of the world can easily sympathize, thereby presenting one of the most important guiding principles for future textiles.

• KIISE Transactions on Computing Practices
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.359-370
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• 2017

In overseas-hospital construction, the digital hospital is a trend that is based on the developments of the information and communication technologies, state-of-the-art medical equipment, smart health, and telemedicine. Along with the increasing proportion of IT, this has resulted in the spreading of the concept throughout city-like hospitals and their transformation into digital hospitals. In the hospital-construction business, IT is a key element that will link the modernization of the mechanical, electrical, and equipment systems, construction, and medical equipment for efficiency maximization through integration. The purpose of this study is the analysis of the market-expansion success factors through the construction of a success-story-based, IT-driven overseas-hospital business. The digital-hospital concept and the development process are analyzed through a literature review, and the success factors are analyzed in terms of the cost, time, and quality that are proposed in the project-management body of knowledge. The main contributions of this study regarding the success factors are as follows: First, a cost-side need exists regarding the establishment of strategic-value engineering in terms of increasing the value from the perspectives of the IT and operational infrastructures; second, in terms of the construction time, all of the hospital systems must comply with the established deadlines for the integrated test and commissioning; and lastly, in terms of quality, it is important to ensure that the System Integration digital-hospital services are delivered according to the user requirements.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Applied Microbiology Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.83-89
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• 2001

Recent advances in the structural and molecular biology uncovered that a set of translation factors resembles a tRNA shape and, in one case, even mimics a tRNA function for deciphering the genetic ：ode. Nature must have evolved this 'art' of molecular mimicry between protein and ribonucleic acid using different protein architectures to fulfill the requirement of a ribosome 'machine'. Termination of protein synthesis takes place on the ribosomes as a response to a stop, rather than a sense, codon in the 'decoding' site (A site). Translation termination requires two classes of polypeptide release factors (RFs)： a class-I factor, codon-specific RFs (RFI and RF2 in prokaryotes; eRFI in eukaryotes), and a class-IT factor, non-specific RFs (RF3 in prokaryotes; eRF3 in eukaryotes) that bind guanine nucleotides and stimulate class-I RF activity. The underlying mechanism for translation termination represents a long-standing coding problem of considerable interest since it entails protein-RNA recognition instead of the well-understood codon-anticodon pairing during the mRNA-tRNA interaction. Molecular mimicry between protein and nucleic acid is a novel concept in biology, proposed in 1995 from three crystallographic discoveries, one, on protein-RNA mimicry, and the other two, on protein-DNA mimicry. Nyborg, Clark and colleagues have first described this concept when they solved the crystal structure of elongation factor EF- Tu：GTP：aminoacyl-tRNA ternary complex and found its overall structural similarity with another elongation factor EF-G including the resemblance of part of EF-G to the anticodon stem of tRNA (Nissen et al. 1995). Protein mimicry of DNA has been shown in the crystal structure of the uracil-DNA glycosylase-uracil glycosylase inhibitor protein complex (Mol et al. 1995; Savva and Pear 1995) as well as in the NMR structure of transcription factor TBP-TA $F_{II}$ 230 complex (Liu et al. 1998). Consistent with this discovery, functional mimicry of a major autoantigenic epitope of the human insulin receptor by RNA has been suggested (Doudna et al. 1995) but its nature of mimic is. still largely unknown. The milestone of functional mimicry between protein and nucleic acid has been achieved by the discovery of 'peptide anticodon' that deciphers stop codons in mRNA (Ito et al. 2000). It is surprising that it took 4 decades since the discovery of the genetic code to figure out the basic mechanisms behind the deciphering of its 64 codons.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.289-321
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• 1996

After the two big wars (Imjin Woeran and Byungia Horan), the Lee Dynasty confronted rapid transitional periods in almost all aspects of the society. Corruption of the governmental system by the wars and disordered social structures also caused confusion in the social position system. In addition, development of the commercial economic system and monetary economy brought up a new rich middle-class, "Joong in Gyegeup". In ideological aspects, Confucianism indulged in and stick to isms and ics, and the Confucian morality slackened, thus a more pragmatic ideology, "Silhak Sasang", developed. And the emergence of the modern literature and art of the 'common people' was followed by the appearance of the common-people class including those having the common-people concept among the noble-class "Yangban Gyegeup". This evoked a new common costume culture and the fashion appeared. The public could no longer find the power and appeal from the preexisting ruling classes due to the changed role and sense of value. Thus, they sought a new symbolic leader group that would to be the new standard of the newly changed society. That was a group of people called as "Kisaeng" liberal and independent. They were performing social activities, enjoying poetry, music and dancing, and classy dressers, having physically attractive bodies. The erotic as well as luxurious mode proposed by them reflected the trend of that time. It concurred well with the concept and taste of the public, so it was accepted with a good response. That is, by following these leaders, the public achieved their identification and tried to share the prestige of the leaders. For this reason, the Kisaeng group attracted the public attention and led the taste of the public, thereby becoming the influential fashion leaders of that age.

• Journal of the Korean Solar Energy Society
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 2015

When it comes to these buildings for business use, cooling load during summertime was reported to have great importance which, as a result, impressively increased interest in Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). Such SHGC is considered to be lowered with the help of colors and functions of glass itself, internal shading devices, insulation films and others but basically, these external shading devices for initial blocking that would not allow solar heat to come in from outside the buildings are determined to be most effective. Of many different external shading devices, this thesis conducted an analysis on Exterior Venetian Blind. As for vertical shading devices, previous researches already calculated SHGC conveniently using concepts of sky-opening ratios. However in terms of the Venetian Blind, such correlation is not possibly applied. In light of that, in order to extract a valid correlation, this study first introduced a concept called shape factor, which would use the breadth and a space of a shade, before carrying out the analysis. As a consequence, the concept helped this study to find a very similar correlation. Results of the analysis are summarized as follows. (1) Regarding SHGC depending on the surface reflectance of a shade, an average of 2% error is observed and yet, the figure can always be ignored when it comes to a simple calculation. (2) As for SHGC of each bearing, this study noticed deviations of 4% or less and in the end, it is confirmed that extraction can be achieved with no more than one correlation formula. (3) When only the shape factor and nothing else is used for finding a correlation formula, the formula with a deviation of approximately 5% or less is what one would expect. (4) Since the study observed slight differences in bearings depending on ranges of the shape factors, it needed to extract a weighted value of each bearing, and learned that the smaller the shape factor, the wider the range of a weighted value. The study now suggests that a follow-up research to extract a simple calculation formula by dealing with all these various inclined angles of shade, solar radiation conditions of each region (the ratio of diffuse radiation to direct radiation and others) as well as seasonal features should be carried out.