• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

고급성과 위생성이 우수한 견과 실용적 특성이 우수한 합성섬유의 서로의 장점만을 가진 이상적인 직물을 개발코저 시험한 결과 고치와 polyester 복합사(S/P 복합사)와 복합 직물의 특성은 다음과 같다. 1. 자동조사기에 의한 복합사 제조시험 결과 빔을 5회 주었을때 보다 빔을 주지 않았을때 사조 집합도가 향상되었으며 빔을 주지 않고 공기교란 장치만으로 섬도 감지기의 작동도 정확히 이루어져 섬도편차가 양호한 S/P 복합사를 제조할 수 있었다. 2. S/P 복합사를 SEM으로 관찰한 결과 포합이 잘된 부분이 많았으나 견사는 견사끼리 polyester는 polyester 끼리 포합된 형태도 관찰되었다. 3. 직물을 SEM으로 관찰한 chiffon 직물은 강연을 한 결과 견사 부분이 polyester사 내부로 파묻힌 곳도 관찰되었다. 4. 분산염료와 산성염료 혼합용액에서 일욕 이단법으로 염색한 S/P 복합사 직물의 염색견뢰도는 habutae 직물은 일광견뢰도가 3급인 것을 제외하고는 모두 4급 이상으로 양호하였고 chiffon 직물은 모두 4급이상으로 양호하였다. 5. habutae 직물과 chiffon 직물의 특성을 보면 강력과 modulus는 생지에서 가장 크고 염색 가공지에서 크게 감소되었으며 신도는 정련지와 염색 가공지가 생지보다 증가되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.227-233
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the High Functional Covering machine and the Compound Twister to produce the high value added textile goods and to meet the consumer's needs. For the study, 8 yarns and 12 fabrics were made with two developed machines and the tensile characteristics of the samples were tested and analysed. The result indicated that the sample fabrics kept their elongation regardless of buffering process. Elongation of the sample yarns was higher than those of yarns made with a traditional covering method. Elastic recovery of the sample fabrics was more effected by the recovery rate than by the number of extension and the characteristics of the sample yarns and fabrics were comparable to the yarns and fabrics made with a traditional covering method in terms of the position of Spandex yarns in their yarn structure and buffering effect.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.