• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.714-723
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for middle-aged women. As a methodology, engineering design process, especially, QFD(Quality Function Deployment) was adopted to translate consumer's needs into product design parameters. Wearing tests of commercial brassiere were performed for the development o subjective measurement scale. The environmental condition was controlled at 28$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 65$\pm$3%RH. As results, subjective measurement scale and dimension for the evaluation of sensible brassiere were extracted from factor analysis. Four factors were fitting, aesthetic property, pressure sensation, displacement of brassiere due to movement. Regression equations with the subjective evaluation descriptors were developed for the prediction of wearing comfort of brassiere. (R2=.82) The most critical design parameter was wire-related property and second one was stretchability of main material of brassiere. Also, wearing comfort of brassiere was affected by the interaction of initial stretchability of wing and support of strap.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.1211-1221
• /
• 2007

To provide the basic information of the brassiere development for women with poor breast, we performed the survey on their wearing habits for brassieres by comparing the poor breast type women and the normal breast type women. Also, to suggest the advanced design methods for the mould brassiere for the poor breast women, we conducted the subjective wear test of commercial mould brassieres and measured the local thickness for mould cup under various loads. As the results, the good fitness of cup and wire, the natural wear silhouette, and the adaptation of soft and stretchy material for mould cup were very important to design the comfortable brassiere for the poor breast type. The good-fitness of upper cup was the key factor for the satisfactory wear appearance of brassiere and the cup should be designed not too thick at the upper and the bust point regions.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.24 no.6
• /
• pp.847-857
• /
• 2015

The ratio of small-breasted women occupies over 20% among Korean women in their twenties. However, the commercial brassieres for the small-breasted women were not fitted well to their breast shapes. In this research, the various commercial mold brasseries for small-breasted women were evaluated through the wearing test and the analysis of 3D images which were scanned from their torsos wearing the brassieres. In addition, professional panels performed the appearance evaluation based on the 2D front and side images captured from 3D images taken by 3D measurement systems. As the results, we found that small-breasted women preferred a 3/4 cup brassiere, of which volume is concentrated in the lower cup. The most preferred brassiere in wearing state shows that the characteristic angle between the chest and the upper cup is about 167 degrees, which is smaller than those of another brassieres, and that the ratio of the radius of curvature of the nipple part to that of the lower cup was about 0.78. These results provide important implications regarding the design of mold brassieres for small-breasted women in spite of the fact that these results represent the selected set of commercial brassieres. Therefore, further studies are highly demanded for the most suitable design information of mold cup for small-breasted women.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 1999.11a
• /
• pp.162-166
• /
• 1999

30-40대 중년 여성 100명을 대상으로 Brassiere착용 상황, 요구사항을 조사, 분석하고 시판 Brassiere의 착용실험을 통해 착용감을 평가함으로써 Brassiere에 대한 소비자 요구와 착용감 평가차원을 추출하였다. 주관적 착용감 평가실험은 25명이 참여 하였으며, 실험은 온도 28$^{\circ}C$, 습도 65%RH의 인공기후실에서 실시하였다. Brassiere 착용감의 구성차원을 추출하기 위해 평가용어를 이용하여 평정한 값들을 요인분석한 결과, fit성 및 체형보정성, 심미성, 압박감, 동작에 의한 브라의 착용위치 변화의 4가지 요인으로 이루어졌음을 확인하였다. Brassiere 착용감을 예측하기 위해 평가용어를 회귀변수로 하여 회귀분석한 결과, Y=3.262+0.723X$_1$-0.646X$_2$ (Y: 착용감, X$_1$: 가슴과 컵모양이 잘 맞는다, X$_2$: 와이어 부분이 불편하다)로 나타났다. Brassiere 착용감에 대한 소비자의 정성적인 요구사항을 정량적으로 측정하기 위한 제품 디자인 요소중, 와이어와 주소재의 신축성이 착용감에 중요하게 작용하는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.12 s.138
• /
• pp.1596-1604
• /
• 2004

Quality Function Deployment(QFD) is a product development tool which ensures that the voice of the customer needs is heard and translated into products. To develop a sensible brassiere for middle-aged women QFD was adopted. In this study the applicability and usefulness of QFD was examined through the engineering design process for a sensible brassiere for middle-aged women. The customer needs for the wear comfort of brassiere was made by one-on-one survey of 100 women who aged 30-40. The customer competitive assessment was generated by wearing tests of 10 commercial brassieres. The subjective assessment was conducted in the enviornmental chamber that was controlled at $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C,\;65{\pm}3\%RH.$ As a results, we developed twenty-one customer needs and corresponding HOWs for the wear comfort of brassiere. The Customer Competitive Assessment was generated by wearing tests of commercial brassiere. The subjective measurement scale and dimension for the evaluation of sensible brassiere were extracted from factor analysis. Four factors were fitting, aesthetic property, pressure sensation, displacement of brassiere due to movement. The most critical design parameter was wire-related property and second one was stretchability of main material of brassiere. Also, wearing comfort of brassiere was affected by the interaction of initial stretchability of wing and support of strap. Engineering design process, QFD was applicable to the development of technical and aesthetic brassieres.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.196-202
• /
• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.988-995
• /
• 2015

Gaps between the upper edges of brassiere mold cups and the breasts are one of the most serious issues in realizing comfort wearing of commercial brassieres for small-breasted women. The surplus ease amounts causing the fit problem were measured from 3D wearing images of the small-breasted women's brassieres. The effect after the removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup was approved by subjective wearing evaluation. Since the volume distribution of mold cup can also affect the wearing sensation of brassiere, the subjective wearing sensation was compared for two brassieres of different volume distributions, V_L, of which volume was concentrated at the lower cup, and V_C, which has the thickest part at the nipple. As the results, the suitable sensation for cup volume and the natural wearing silhouette could be accomplished by removing the surplus ease amounts from the upper edge of mold cup to reduce the gaps between brassieres and the breasts, which could be accomplished through an approach reducing the volume near the upper edge of mold brassiere cup and making the volume concentrated at the lower cup. These works provide a useful information on the design of the brassiere mold cups for small-breasted women. Moreover, modeling methods of 3D scan data and 3D printing technique for making more accurate mold cases used in this research can be helpful to develop and evaluate clothing products in future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.5
• /
• pp.737-752
• /
• 2018

The frequency of breast augmentation surgery continues to increase annually; however, the method of follow-up care varies from hospital to hospital. In particular, many different types of post-operative bras are available in the market. This study evaluated the wearing comfort of various commercial bras that were worn immediately after breast enlargement surgery prior to the manufacture of the bra. According to interviews of medical professionals and market research, five types of brassiere were selected and evaluated by wearing satisfaction, functional performance, and an external appearance test for 6 subjects with breast augmentation surgery. The evaluation questionnaires were based on a 5 point Likert scale with data analyzed using SPSS 20.0. The study results revealed that the bra with the highest degree of satisfaction was CNB (without bra cup) type. However, the use of CNB type showed dissatisfaction in functional evaluation questions regarding breast shaking and material & tactile sensation. In the future, it is necessary to develop a new post-operative brassiere based on a CNB type bra that showed the best evaluation. However, it is also necessary to identify the merits of the other four experimental bras and reflect these advantages.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2000.04a
• /
• pp.212-217
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a design process for a functional and sensible brassiere for muddle - aged women. As a methodology, an engineering design process QFD (Quality Function Deployment) was adopted to translate the consumer's needs into product design parameters. the customer needs for the wear comfort of brassieres were extracted from a survey of 100 women aged 30 - 40. To select which items were critical and which could be traded off for other attributed or benefits. the importance ratings for the customer needs were determined. Customer needs were translated into technical language by various physical test methods and wear tests. The customer competitive assessment was generated by wear tests of 10 commercial brassieres under controlled environmental conditions of 28${\pm}$1$^{\circ}C$, 65${\pm}$3% RH. The relationship matrix between the customer needs and the means of delivering the needs was developed. Using the QFD methodology, design elements for developing a brassiere for middle-aged women could be analyzed and organized efficiently.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.15-35
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings' tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.