• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2009

Natural dyes seem to be more profitable on human and environment, and recently they could be considered as a better alternative to synthesized dyes. The aim of the current work was to investigate the dyeing property and antimicrobial activity of commercial cotton fabrics dyed with kumazasa (usually called in japan) which is known as conventional japan bamboo leaves. Actually, the dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed fabric with natural mordant/dyeing was compared with synthetic mordant/dye process. The results of this study obtained are as follows. The apparently colour of kumazasa leaves extract dyed fabrics showed with light green or slightly yellow-green. In colorfastness to washing, ${\Delta}E$ and K/S values of dyed fabrics with natural chitosan as mordant used was shown to be more excellent results, than was synthetic mordant used. However, the decrease rate was recorded nearly 50% when washing repeated 20 cycles. In result of antimicrobial effect for bacteria, the dyed fabrics didn't show the significant antimicrobial activity to the both dyed with and without mordant. Results of this investigation considered that low-cost, natural, bio-mordant are relatively effective in natural coloration.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2019

Dyeing is an essential process for improving the value of textile products, but it is considered as one of industries causing pollution because of producing wastewater containing hazardous chemicals as well as using a large amount of water and energy. Global demand for greener technologies in textile field is getting much more attention and accordingly, the use of eco-friendly natural dyes is growing much larger. In textile printing, both dyes and pigments can be used. Pigment printing is more simple process and requires less water and less energy, compared to dye printing. In this study, the organic pigment was prepared from the marigold colorant. Samples were stencil printed, pressed(70℃, 3min) and then heat treated(150℃, 5min). The uptake of polyacrylic acid as a chemical binder was the lowest. In particular, marigold pigments were excellent in color and texture when Guar Gum and Sodium Alginate were used as binders. In addition, the light and washing fastness was rated very high as 4, 4/5 grades, and the rubbing fastness was also excellent as 3 and 4 grades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.947-958
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• 2008

To study the effect of a washing machine with silver nano technology on its detergency, the discoloring of the dyed clothes and the staining of standards adjacent fabrics were examined. As the laundry specimen, cotton fabric dyed with reactive dyes and Polyester fabric dyed with disperse dyes were chosen; and as the adjacent fabrics, undyed cotton. polyester and nylon fabrics were chosen. The colorfastness was evaluated after washing under conditions that those washing temperature, liquor ratio, detergency concentration and the type of water were varied. When the clothes were washed with the tap water contains silver ion, the deposition of silver compounds into the washed clothes was measured. As a results, after the washing in the various conditions, discoloring of the dyed clothes was not intense. The higher the washing temperature and the lower the liquor ratio, the larger the staining appeared on the white fabrics; especially for the white nylon fabrics. The concentration of detergent and the type of water affected hardly the colorfastness. After the repeated washing with the water contains silver, whiteness of the cotton and the nylon fabrics were lower than the result after the washing with the tap water, and a quantity of silver ions was found on the washed clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.202-209
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• 2015

Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.97-105
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• 2012

Compared with conventional adsorption-based coloration, the photoreactions of dyes such as photo-copolymerization and photo-crosslinking under UV irradiation can be employed for the coloration of textiles, which can be carried out without salt addition at room temperature. C.I. Reactive Black 5, a homo-bifunctional reactive dye containing two sulfatoethylsulfone groups, is used as a photo-reactive dye for wool fibers. Upon UV irradiation, the photo-reactive dye was grafted onto wool fabrics without photoinitiators. Since the disulfide bonds in the cystine residues of wool can be easily photodecomposed to active thiyl radicals which initiate the polymerization, the dye can be polymerized to an oligomeric dye of a degree of polymerization of 12 or more. The grafted fabrics reached a grafting yield of 2.3% o.w.f. and a color yield (K/S) of 18.2 by the photografting of an aqueous dye concentration of 9% using a UV energy of 25J/$cm^2$. Furthermore, the photochemically dyed wool fabric showed higher colorfastness properties to light, laundering and rubbing comparable to conventional reactive dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.819-827
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce cotton fabric having improved dyeability and colorfastness as well as retaining the desirable durable press property. When cotton fabric was treated with additives, nitrogen content was increased as the additive concentration was increased. DP ratings and wrinkle recovery properties of BTCA treated cotton fabrics were greatly increased. But DP rating was lowered slightly by adding additives and wrinkle recovery property was decreased with the increase of additive concentration. Tensile strength was decreased by BTCA treatment but increased as additive concentration was increased. Various BTCA/additive treatments produced great affinity for reactive and acid dyes when dyebaths were adjusted at pH 3. It was showed that dyeability was increased as additive concentration was increased. The most effective additive for improving the dyeing properties of the crosslinked cotton was TEAㆍHCl. In case of reactive dye, there was almost no improvement on the dyeability of finished cotton by adding salt. Color fastness to washing and light of finished and dyed cotton were low except for the washfastness of reactive dye. Dyeing the BTCA/additive treated cotton fabrics with reactive dye had no effect on the physical properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.166-176
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• 2017

This study is fundamental research on how to be able to scientifically quantify and reproduce a natural dyeing procedure. By dyeing silk fabrics, the establishment of a reproducible dyeing method was sought. Juglans mandshurica has been known as one of the most widely used black vegetable dyes. Repetition conditions and combination dyeing were performed with Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts to express a deep black color. Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts were suitable for black coloration and showed a darker black color when combined with iron mordant. Specifically, Juglans mandshurica cortex and clove can be used for deep black coloring. Color fastness when washed or dry cleaned was found to be strong with a grade of 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at a 3-4. The grade of color change when exposed to rubbing and perspiration was good at a 4-5. In regards to functional property aspects, it showed excellent results with a 99% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 97.1% UV protection rate, and 85.9% and 62.3% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, respectively. Therefore, it is considered that the extract from the Juglans mandshurica cortex is of great value as an eco-friendly, natural dyestuff.