• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.508-517
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• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.866-872
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• 2010

This study investigates the methods of the natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex extract. After the dyeing of silk with a Machilus thunbergii cortex extract, the dyeability of the Machilus thunbergii cortex extract was evaluated with the dyeing time, concentration, temperature, the numbers of repeated dyeing, the pH of the dyebath, the changes of the K/S value, and surface colors by the methods of mordanting and color fastness. The effective dyeing conditions with silk fabrics were at a concentration of 120g/L, the dyeing temperature at $80^{\circ}C$, and the dyeing time for one hour ten minutes. The effective number of repeated dyeing was three times. The dyeing operation was carried out in a neutral dyebath of pH 7. The K/S value was higher in most of the pre-mordants (except the Sn mordant) and a high K/S value was shown in the copper pre-mordant. The colors of the silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex were of various brown shades. The color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant and the colorfastness of all the dyed samples was low; however, the dry cleaning fastness was excellent at the 4-5 grade.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.263-271
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with Humulus japonicus (Hwansam) extract which is a kind of weeds that grows wild in the suburbs. In the research, the general extract method was conducted with the extract from fresh herb of root-removed Humulus japonicus while we investigated the optimal dyeing conditions and dyeability depending on the changes of the kind of mordants, methods and temperature. The functional properties such as antibacterial activities, deodorization and UV protection were also reviewed. The ideal output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and methods, it was found that among four mordants of $SnCl_2$, $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, and $FeSO_4$ post-mordanting with $FeSO_4$ showed the best result. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to light was as good as 3 while to perspiration was good at 4-5 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 99% deodorization rate, 98% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.23-34
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to explore the possibility utilizing Rhododedron brachycarpum as a new natural dye resource. It was dyed in silk fabric according to different dyeing conditions such as dye concentration, dye bath temperature, dyeing time and dye bath pH. The effect of the mordanting conditions were estimated as dyeability and color changes. Additionally, the colorfastness, antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics were examined. The water-soluble dye of Rhododedron brachycarpum extracted with distilled water was expressed as Yellow Red color. The dye-abilities of silk generally increased depending on the increasing values of dye concentration, dye bath temperature and dyeing duration. The highest K/S values were obtained at a dye concentration of 100% (v/v), a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, a dyeing duration 120 minutes and a dyeing of pH 2. The light fastness of dyed and Cu mordanted silk fabrics were found to be 4 grade while Al, Fe mordanted silk fabrics were found to be 2~3 grade. The dry cleaning and rubbing fastness were excellent or good. The fade of washing fastness was not good, however, the stain of washing fastness was excellent. The dyed and Al, Cu mordanted silk fabrics indicated 99.9% reduction rate. The dyed and the mordanted fabrics showed very good ultraviolet protection factors.