• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.128-140
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• 2016

In this study, dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. extract, which is relatively less studied, was measured. The extract of this plant was used to dye cellulose and protein fiber to check its usage as a natural green dye. Three different methods were used to produce extract. Dried Urtica Dioica L. was extracted with 100% ethanol, 50% ethanol with 50% distilled water and 100% distilled water. Then dyeing solution was obtained by blending with distilled water at 1-to-1 ratio. The maximum dyeability was obtained when 100% ethanol extract of dried Urtica Dioica L. used to dye fabrics at 60 degrees celsius for 60 minutes without mordant treatment. Cotton, rayon, wool and silk were dyed and dyeability for each fiber was measured for color difference value then compared to its control. The results show that dyeability of rayon and dyeability of wool are stronger, and that when color position for each mordant is measured, color difference is most diverse on cotton with pre-mordant treatment. Color fastness to wash, perspiration and rubbing crockmeter were superb, but color fastness to light was low, therefore, additional study on this is needed to improve. Urtica Dioica L. is now expected to be used practically as green color dye as well as medicinally and edible.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.76-86
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• 2016

In this research, the dyeing properies of Amur cork tree on sheep leathers were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature and dye bath pH. For the proper conditions, the changes of color for different mordants(Al, Cu and Fe) were observed as $L^*a^*b^*$ coordinates and H V/C values. The color fastnesses were also examined, and the antimicrobial properties were examined. The results were as follows: For the sheep leather, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40 min., $40^{\circ}C$, and pH 5. The leather color was yellow in the dyeing and mordanting. Although the $L^*a^*b^*$ changed with the mordants and mordanting methods, the overall hue was yellow. The colorfastness to light was reduced compared to original(untreated) sheep leather. The rubbing fastness was generallry satisfactory as 4-5 rating. The dry-cleaning fastness(stain) of leathers were generally at the 4-5 level, but dry-cleaning fastness(fade) was a little reduced compared to original sheep leather. The dyed and pre-mordanted and dyed sheep leather showed excellent antimicrobial properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.88-95
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• 2016

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ${\geq}$non mordant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.983-989
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify mordant effects of Chestnut hulls. The color of post and pre-mordanted fabrics were measured in terms of H, V, C, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and K/S values. In addition, color fastness and antimicrobial activity were evaluated. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls for cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 70% (o.w.f.), respectively. Post-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls of mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 90% (o.w.f.), respectively. The hue of fabrics was influenced by mordant methods, such as pre-mordant and post-mordant, slightly. Wet cleaning fastness of pre-mordanted cotton and mercerized cotton fabrics was higher than that of post-mordanted fabrics. The wet cleaning fastness of silk fabrics was not affected by the mordant method, and their fastness were proved to be excellent. The dry cleaning fastness of post-mordanted cotton fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted cotton fabrics. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was proved to be excellent regardless of mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of Oenothera odorata jacquin dyed fabrics and Chestnut hulls mordanted fabrics was proved to 99.9%, and their excellent antimicrobial activity remained after wet and dry cleaning.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.808-814
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• 2013

In this study, The mixture of three kinds of pre-treatment agents, Carboxymethyl cellulose sodium salt(CMC), Sodium alginate and Dextrin, have been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. To get sharpness of outline during digital printing process, the optimal formulation is the CMC and Sodium alginate mixture 1:1 ratio by volume. Cyan, Yellow, and Black colours are excellent on the Sodium alginate mixtures. But, Magenta is excellent in the CMC and Dextrin mixture. Sharpness and printability are closely related to viscosity of the mixture. The most optimal sharpness of outline achieved with a consideration of coloring, and field operations account for production when the viscosity of the mixed pre-treatment agent approximately is 10~13 cSt. Change in shade and staining of wash fastness for all the treated samples with the mixtures rated 4-5 grade. Both dry rubbing fastness to shade change and staining are good in the treated samples, whereas wet rubbing fastness rated 2-3 grade. To improve wet rubbing fastness, the Sodium alginate and Dextrine mixture, which rated 3-4 grade for Black color, is applicable. With exception of 3 rating to black color, Light fastness is 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of the pre-treatment agent. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples are also 4-5 rating.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.801-811
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• 2022

In this study, we constructed a database of dyeing concentrations of all reactive dyes used for dyeing linen according to the thickness of the linen fabric and attempted to improve the reproducibility of the dyeing process for the commercialization of linen fabric materials. Linen fabric is a natural cellulose material that is comfortable and suitable for eco-friendly trends. It is a typical summer material with excellent breathability and thermal conductivity, quick moisture absorption and dissipation, and a cool touch. Dyeability and fastness were evaluated depending on the thickness of the linen fabric using a monochlorotriazine (MCT) reactive dye and bifunctional yellow, red, and blue dyes. All three colors of the MCT reactive dye and bifunctional dyes exhibited a darker shade as the fiber thickness of the marker increased. Fastness to washing was excellent at grades 4-5 or higher, regardless of the color of the dye and the number of linen fabrics. Although some color-fastness differences were noted, with the color change occurring most frequently with blue color, the fastness variations with dye type were mostly similar. The results of this study are expected to facilitate the selection of reactive dyes according to the thickness of the linen fabric based on the basic data from the laboratory, which will aid in the mass production of linen fabric and benefit the fashion industry.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.67-81
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• 2023

This study aims to examine the possibility of using dried Dondropanax morbiferus extract as a functional dye. The leaves and branches of were extracted with distilled water and 30% ethanol, and the dyeability and functionality of silk fabrics were examined according to the color characteristics of the extract and dyeing conditions. As a result of analyzing the ultraviolet and visible light absorption spectrum of the extract, it was possible to confirm the peak of flavonoid belonging to polyphenol, and the peak of riboflavin expressing yellow color was confirmed. Adsorption equilibrium was observed at 4% dyeing concentration and 60 minutes of dyeing time, and as the temperature increased, dyeing amount increased without color change of Y-series. Aluminum mordanting also increased the yellow color. The color fastness of washing and UV irradiation was low, but the color fastness of rubbing was evaluated as relatively good. The silk fabric dyed with the distilled water extract of the leaves showed a 99.9% bacteriostatic reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae, showing excellent antibacterial properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.