• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.35-49
• /
• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.6
• /
• pp.51-69
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.101-109
• /
• 2014

Bangryeong generally means rectangular collars at present. However, it is estimated that there would be Bangryeong in different shapes besides rectangular shape in ancient times, but there is no accurate evidence. The dispute on the shape of Bangryeong started with the records in Yegi(禮記) and Simui written during Zhou period, China, the oldest records on Bangryeong. However, there are no remains or paintings(pictorial data) accurately proving the different shapes of Bangryeong. While the new shape of Gokgeop(collar of Simui) was mentioned by Zhu Xi during Song period, it was not accurately verified. There are almost no literature, excavated objects or pictorial data on the shapes of Bangryeong which are not definitely identified. The shape of Bangryeong is identified to a certain extent by objects excavated or pictorial data during Yuan and Ming period. There will be definite reasons why Zhou Xibao and Hua Mei, the scholars in China, the y-shaped collar rolled on the chest among the objects excavated during Warring States Period as Bangryeong or Guryeong. Thus, this paper investigated the notes and description in Yegijeongui(禮記正義) and the records and notes during the Han period which are mentioned most frequently except Yegi among the records on Bangryeong. Accordingly, this paper identified that there are different shapes of Bangryeong except rectangular shape during the Han period. It is estimated that Bangyeong at that time had symmetric collars, the collars of Jikryeong which are not overlapped. The collar section after the neck section was straight. It was also said that Bangyeong was women's clothing. In other words, Bangyeong in the Han period suggests that the collar of Jikryeong was Bangryeong. As discussed above, Bangryeong has the long history and different meanings by period. However, it is very difficult to accurately define Bangryeong because there are almost no records on it. Nevertheless, Bangryeong will be discussed more in further study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.24
• /
• pp.83-101
• /
• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate relation between kucha and Korea by comparing costume. The results are as follows. First, During 508th century, wall paintings of Kizil and Kuizilkargha showed traditional costume such as cutting hair , lapel coller and fitting sleeve coat, pants, boots , belts and knife. Kumtura were also in 6 th, but under the influence of China and Hoehol (회골) after 7th. Second, Men and women cutting hair except king, they put on cone shaped hat and Kun (건), clothing were made of felt and kun(면). Third, it was influenced by Iran that cutting hair in Silla (신라) and Kucha. In Silla , round neckline and V neckline were existed except lapel collar. Jeweled knife of Silla and Kuncha , pattern of Kumdonglee(금동복) showed cultural exchange of centural Asia and Korea along the Silk Rood. It is conscious that Silla preferred centural asia of texture and jewels by prohibition of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.3
• /
• pp.73-87
• /
• 2003

The custom and shroud for funeral rites of the early 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the grave of Mrs. Jung (1565 - 1614) are studied in this paper. The grave was located in the Pohang, Kyungbuk Province and was excavated in, April 1999. The remains consist of one set of epitaphs, 33 pieces of costume, 7 pieces of cloths, and 14 pieces of funeral accessaries. From these remains, this study newly reveals : 1) a specific funeral custom for the upper class from the fact that her husband, Ja-Hun Ki, was in the position of Prime Minister for the Chosun government when she died, 2) a fact that women also wore a formal dress with round-shaped collar (Dalryoung) and a concubine could use rectangular tablets ((Hyungbae) with peacock pattern according to her husband's rank, 3) a whole set of shroud used for women in the early 17th Century, and 4) specific construction methods for individual shroud.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.551-561
• /
• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.3
• /
• pp.77-92
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.829-840
• /
• 1999

Ordinarily hair styles and headclothes show the racial characteristics. Uighur's men had let their long hair hang down their back in many queues, According to the order of estates men wore double high coronets hthree-pointed coronets from the headdress. Married women wore the felt headdress. The type of men's clothes were long caftans which had a round collar slits on the both sides and tight sleeves. They tied Chan Die belts and wore long boots. Women wore long tunics with everted collar which was decorated. Later the type of women's dress was changed into the long caftan. Late period of Turfan Uighur Mongol style had appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.6
• /
• pp.17-31
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.