• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.60-73
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• 2007

This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.15-23
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• 1977

This article is to study Dopo, man's traditional robe, which was worn by courtiers and scholars in Yi dynasty (AD 1392-1910). This article deals with its history and transition according to relative documents available, and presents its construction method with reference to relics. It is recorded that Dopo was first worn about the middle of the time of Yi dynasty. Dopo, however, seems to have its origin in the robe of Koguryo dynasty (BC 37-AD 668). Dopo was an ordinary robe to court officials, whereas Confucian scholars wore it as an official uniform or a ritual robe. ft was a long over-coat with V-neck line, and, round and wide sleeves. Dopo was so long that its edge reached wearer's ankels. One of the widest sleeves of relics was 58cm in size. Another unique characteristics Dopo had, were that its back cloth splited in two on center line, which was fully covered and added with-another cloth called 'Jeonsam'. Accordingly, a cloth-30cm in width and 30 yards in length-was needed to make Dopo. Since the reform of 1894 it was prohibited to wear, and then was replaced with Durumagi, a strait collar and narrow-sleeved robe.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.58-75
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

• 대한치과보철학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.454-464
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• 1999

The metal ceramic crown is currently the most popular complete veneer restoration in dentistry, but in many cases, the metal cervical collar at the facial margin is unesthetic and unacceptable. Facial porcelain margin has been used in place of it. But this dose not solve the problems, such as dark gingival discoloration and cervical opaque reflection of porcelain veneer. Recently, metal copings which were designed to terminate its labio-cervical end on the axial walls coronal to the shoulder have been clinically used to solve the esthetic problem of metal ceramic crown. But in this design, porcelain veneer of labio-cervical area which is not supported by metal may not be able to resist the stress during cementation and mastication. The purpose of this study was to evaluate fracture strength and fractured appearance of crowns according to different coping designs. A resin maxillary left central incisor analogue was prepared for a metal ceramic crown, and metal dies were made with duplication mold. Metal copings were made and assigned to one of four groups based on facial framework designs: group 1, coping with 0.5mm metal collar; group 2, metal extended to the shoulder; group 3, metal extended to 1mm coronal tn the shoulder: group 4, metal extended to 2mm coronal to the shoulder. Copings and crowns were adjusted to be same size and thickness, and cemented to metal dies with zinc phosphate cement by finger pressure. Fracture strength was measured with Instron Universal Testing Machine. Metal dies were anchored in Three-way-vice at 3mm below finish line and at $130^{\circ}$ inclined to the long axis of the crown. Load was directed lingually at 2mm below midincisal edge. Load value at initial crack and at catastrophic fracture was recorded. The results obtained were as follows : 1. Fracture strength values at initial crack were higher in groups 1, 2 than in groups 3, 4 but this difference was not statistically significant(P<0.05). 2. Conventional metal collared crown had greater catastrophic fracture strength than any other collarless crowns. 3. The greater the labial metal coping reduction, the lower the catastrophic fracture strength of crowns but when more than 1mm of labial metal reduction was done, the difference in strengths was not statistically significant(p<0.05). 4. The strongest collarless coping design was group 2.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.646-656
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• 2015

This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

• The Journal of Advanced Prosthodontics
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.134-141
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• 2010

PURPOSE. The objective of this study was to evaluate fracture strength of collarless metal-ceramic FPDs according to their metal coping designs. MATERIALS AND METHODS. Four different facial margin design groups were investigated. Group A was a coping with a thin facial metal collar, group B was a collarless coping with its facial metal to the shoulder, group C was a collarless coping with its facial metal 1 mm short of the shoulder, and group D was a collarless coping with its facial metal 2 mm short of the shoulder. Fifteen 3-unit collarless metal-ceramic FPDs were fabricated in each group. Finished FPDs were cemented to PBT (Polybutylene terephthalate) dies with resin cement. The fracture strength test was carried out using universal testing machine (Instron 4465, Instron Co., Norwood MA, USA) at a cross head speed of 0.5 mm/min. Aluminum foil folded to about 1 mm of thickness was inserted between the plunger tip and the incisal edge of the pontic. Vertical load was applied until catastrophic porcelain fracture occurred. RESULTS. The greater the bulk of unsupported facial shoulder porcelain was, the lower the fracture strength became. However, there were no significant differences between experimental groups (P > .05). CONCLUSION. All groups of collarless metal-ceramic FPDs had higher fracture strength than maximum incisive biting force. Modified collarless metal-ceramic FPD can be an alternative to all-ceramic FPDs in clinical situations.

• 수산해양기술연구
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.1-5
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• 1986

In order to improve the net-mouth height of dragged gears, the authors devised models of floatingcollars of nylon cloth instead of floats and experimented with 4 types-A type (length 65em, breadth 3em), B type (length 65em, breadth 4em), C type (length 65em, breadth 5em) and D type (length 65 em, breadth 6em) attached respectively to the front edge of square of a model net after preliminary experimentation. These various types of floating collars were experimented in a circulating water channel to evaluate the characteristics of net-mouth height and hydrodynamic resistance and the effect of the length of bridles were also examined. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In case of attaching floats, the model net-mouth height reduced from 80 em to 20 em when current velocity was increased from 0.25m/see to 1m/sec. 2. In case of attaching floating collars, the model net-mouth heights were maintained 70 em, 71 em, 80 em, 78 em in maximum and 55 em, 63 em, 69 em, 73 em in minimum respectively even the current volocity was increased from 0.25 m/see to 1 m/see. 3. The model net-mouth height was reduced to 10 em maximum according to the current velocity and types of floating collars when the bridles were shortened 3~4 mm in length. 4. Hydrodynamic resistance of D type only was increased to 700 g in maximum and those of A, B, C type were reduced to 460 g in maximum at current velocity beyond 0.5 m/ see when bridles were shortened 3-4 mm in length. 5. But the model net-mouth heights became higher in accordance with breadth of floating coliars, B type was the best for this model net in case that hydrodynamic resistance was taken into account.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• 복식
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• 제2권
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• pp.9-21
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• 1978

The object of this article is to examine the shapes and the development of the costume worn in the early and middle Yi Dynasty from the viewpoint of the history of customes with the excavated clothing from Chung-Ju (1530 A.D.), Wool-San (1650 A.D.), An-Dong (1650 A.D.) etc. The study of the history of costumes of the early years of the Yi Dynasty has been mainly dependent upon fiblirographical records sofar. So I have arranged in order some excavated clothing of the early Yi Dynasty, which gives us some means for the study of Korean historical costumes. It is noticeably remarkable that the daily wear of the early Yi Dynasty period was excavated for the first time from Chung-ju. The results drawn from this research are: It is argued that the original from of Chul-nik(天翼) has been excavated. This is the remnants Mongolian clothing of the Koryo Dynasty, and it is sketched in the Dai-Myong-jib-lei(大明集禮) as Yo-sun-o-ja which the lower classes usually put on. The similar clothing is also handed down as a Dan-po(緞袍) from the ming Dynasty, and we can presume that Chul-nik was a common clothing regardless of the social status of their wearer. It is also remarkable that even women at those times wore the Chul-nik. The length of the Cheo-go-ri of the early Yi Dynasty was the middle hip length, and the edge of the sleeves was very wide which called Cham-soo, and it was handed down to the middle period of the Yi Dynasty which can be seen in the coat (po) of women(直領袍). The systems of the straight-collar Po(袍) during the early Yi Dynasty were discovered for the first time. This Po(袍) which would represent the po-system of the early years of Yi Dynasty, is handed down even to the middle of Yi Dynasty. The collars of the Po(coat) of the early Yi Dynasty are mostly double collars(二重衿) and these give us the advantage in reconsidering of the cheo-go-ri(赤古里) of the Kingdom of Shin-la, or Koryo Dynasty. The edge of the women's Ba-ji(袴) of the early Yi Dynasty was wide and the Ba-ji had a shoulder belt which connect the front part with the back one, which showed the practical point of Ba-ji. The men's Ba-ji of the middle Yi Dynasty was the same as can be seen today and it is clear that the Mongolian Ba-ji dated to B.C. 1 was the same one also. In the system of the Chi-ma(常), there seems to be no differences between the ancient styles and those of these times.