• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.188-197
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• 2022

We develop a coastal wave forecasting system by using the unstructured grid based on sea wind data of Global Data Assimilation and Prediction System. The verification is performed to examine the performance and accuracy of the wave model. Since the conventional grid has limited wave forecasting on complex coastlines and bathymetry, the unstructured grid system is applied for precise numerical simulation, and applicability for operational support is evaluated. Both grid systems show similar prediction trends in offshore and coastal areas, and the difference in prediction errors according to the grid system is not large. In addition, the applicability of the operational wave forecasting system is confirmed by dramatically reducing the model execution time of the unstructured grid under the same conditions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.84-94
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• 2018

In order to overcome the limitation of deterministic forecast, an ensemble forecasting system for regional ocean wave is developed. This system predicts ocean wind waves based on the meteorological forcing from the Ensemble Prediction System for Global of the Korea Meteorological Administration, which is consisted of 24 ensemble members. The ensemble wave forecasting system is evaluated by using the moored buoy data around Korea. The root mean squared error (RMSE) of ensemble mean showed the better performance than the deterministic forecast system after 2 days, especially RMSE of ensemble mean is improved by 15% compared with the deterministic forecast for 3-day lead time. It means that the ensemble method could reduce the uncertainty of the deterministic prediction system. The Relative Operating Characteristic as an evaluation scheme of probability prediction was bigger than 0.9 showing high predictability, meaning that the ensemble wave forecast could be usefully applied.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.340-350
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• 2020

A rapid refresh wave forecasting system has been developed using the sea wind on the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System. We carried out a numerical experiment for wind-wave interaction as an important parameter in determining the forecasting performance. The simulation results based on the seasons of with typhoon and without typhoon has been compared with the observation of the ocean data buoy to verify the forecasting performance. In case of without typhoon, there was an underestimate of overall forecasting tendency, and it confirmed that an increase in the wind-wave interaction parameter leads to a decrease in the underestimate tendency and root mean square error (RMSE). As a result of typhoon season by applying the experiment condition with minimum RMSE on without typhoon, the forecasting error has increased in comparison with the result without typhoon season. It means that the wave model has considered the influence of the wind forcing on a relatively weak period on without typhoon, therefore, it might be that the wave model has not sufficiently reflected the nonlinear effect and the wave energy dissipation due to the strong wind forcing.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.179-192
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• 2021

In this study, an integrated wave model from global to coastal scales was developed to improve the operational wave prediction performance of the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). In this system, the wave model was upgraded to the WaveWatch III version 6.07 with the improved parameterization of the source term. Considering the increased resolution of the wind input field and the introduction of the high-performance KMA 5^th Supercomputer, the spatial resolution of global and regional wave models has been doubled compared to the operational model. The physical processes and coefficients of the wave model were optimized for the current KMA global atmospheric forecasting system, the Korean Integrated Model (KIM), which is being operated since April 2020. Based on the sensitivity experiment results, the wind-wave growth parameter (β_max) for the global wave model was determined to be 1.33 with the lowest root mean square errors (RMSE). The value of β_max showed the lowest error when applied to regional/coastal wave models for the period of the typhoon season when strong winds occur. Applying the new system to the case of August 2020, the RMSE for the 48-hour significant wave height prediction was reduced by 13.4 to 17.7% compared to the existing KMA operating model. The new integrated wave prediction system plans to replace the KMA operating model after long-term verification.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2011

At Haeundae Beach in Busan, people were swept away by the fast-moving rip current and rescued, on August 13th and 15th, 2009 & July 29th and 30th, 2010. In predicting the wave-induced current and consequent tube movement for public safety, the coastal flows and waves are calculated at each time step and grid point by means of systematic interfacing of hydrodynamic and wave models (Lee, 2001). To provide a user-friendly simulation tool for end-users, the forecasting system has been built in a software package called HAECUM. Outputs from the system are viewed as graphs of tube positions with combined current vectors for easy decision of emergency management officials. The tube-wave interaction is taken into account and the traces of swim tube are simulated by using a Lagrangian random walk (Chorin, 1978; Lee, 1994). In this study, we use the Lee's approach (Lee, 1993) in estimating the surface onshore currents due to wave breaking.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.333-342
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• 2012

We studied the characteristics of spatial distribution of global wave height and carried out the modelsensitivity test by changing the input field, model resolution and physical factor (effective wind factor) since the spatial and temporal resolution in wind wave forecasting is one of most important factors. Comparisons among the different cases, and also between model, buoy and satellite data have been made. As a results of the wind-wave model run using the high resolution wind field, the bias of significant wave height showed the positive tendency and the Root-Mean Square Error(RMSE) was a bit decreased based on the comparison with buoy data. When the model resolution was changed to higher, the bias and RMSE was increased, and as the effective wind factor was smaller than default value(= 1.4) the bias and RMSE showed also decreasing pattern.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2015

An approach based on the combined use of a 2D shallow water model and analytical 1D long wave run-up theory is proposed which facilitates the forecasting of tsunami run-up heights in a more rapid way, compared with the statistical or empirical run-up ratio method or resorting to complicated coastal inundation models. Its application is advantageous for long-term tsunami predictions based on the modeling of many prognostic tsunami scenarios. The modeling of the Chilean tsunami on February 27, 2010 has been performed, and the estimations of run-up heights are found to be in good agreement with available observations.