• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2012

This study focuses on the application of collage techniques to contemporary fashion and intends to show that collage techniques have a significant influence on contemporary fashion, leading to a more creative design aesthetic through the combination of fashion and art. The author carried out an empirical analysis focusing on domestic and global fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2010F/W, fashion publications, and internet data, along with a literature review. As a result, the papier-colle approach, as represented by cubism, showed a creative surface effect through the texture of the paper itself by applying real paper and other materials directly to the clothing items. Second, Dadaist ready-made expressed a distortion of the material and freedom of expression by creating a collage with ready-made fashion items and daily necessities. Third, a photomontage expressed unique images by printing various images of photos that contrasted in perspective. In addition to this, beauty in dissonance and a new sense of space by a collage of disparate material. Fourth, decalcomanie was expressed by printing methods, giving a stable image of the symmetry of the perfect landscape as well as the unintended effect of coincidence in abstract images and particular textures. Fifth, assemblage as the representative collage technique of pop art introduced the overall object itself or modified form by combining it with fashion to express three-dimensional aggregate structures.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.178-190
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of animal stripes based on the colors, shapes and texture through classification standards under functional meanings, and it also aims to produce various stripe patterns based on its outcome to develop modern fashion design. For the study method, specialty publications, preceding researches and internet websites were utilized for the purpose of theoretical discussion on animal stripes. And it is also to examine functional meanings formed by animal stripes in order to analyze the characteristics of stripes; subsequently, based on the classification standard of this function, it is to identify the distinction of its colors through quantitative analysis on formative characteristics and colors. By using the following analyzed color palette of stripes, various stripe patterns were developed and designed with the sense of modern fashion while repeatedly using the shape with systematic colors and rhythms displayed on the animals. As a result of this study, it was confirmed that animal stripes possess a regularity that is systematic and can be digitized. After identifying, analyzing and systemizing formative characteristics of animal stripes, a concept of division and competition was applied; subsequently, whole new stripe patterns were developed and designed in order to further promote fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2008

Because of comfortable texture and easy treatment, more and more knit products has been required for leisure such as sports, traveling, hobbies, and various social activities. Therefore, the demand of knit is gradually increasing in the clothing industry. There are, however, several issues, which require solutions, and we must develop higher value-added products, which differentiate from those of developing countries allowing us to compete and win in the world market. The patterns on porcelain of underglaze iron, which had been popular from late-l5th century to mid-16th century, are diverse, unique, and traditional--so valuable patterns of our own. The computer hitting machine enables the designer to conceive new designs and produce samples of fabrics within a few minutes, which allows us to save time for mass production. Therefore, it is an essential tool for the knitting industry. After collecting, analyzing, and choosing various patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron, This study reflects the actual experience of hitting the fabrics with the patterns through the computer knitting machine which is also used to produce patterns after designing the new patterns through Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, which has several merits. This article compares and analyzes them for production, which uses the patterns that has been designed from the patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.234-242
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• 2007

This study purpose is to design the stand-hangers that can be fabricated conveniently and effectly for manufacture and the market situation of Piwoori Furniture. The study scope is from the research to design prototype in a design process. This study explored the development of knock-down hanger which can be easily assembled and be newly oriented to hanger style. The hangers were made into two main parts with lower part composed as legs, drawers, and containers, and with lower part composed as a shelf and hanger-bear As they are emphasized by the function and usefulness, small sized clothing, underwear, and socks can be stored, and a lot of pants and jackets can be hanged by adjusting the height Therefore, it is not difficult for them to be packed, stored, and transported by being easily assembled and disassembled from the adaption of the knock-down system. Furthermore, the hangers made of the natural wood show the quality of texture and appearance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2006

This Study is about the color images oi clothes in the early 20th century in the Eastern and Western culture and the recreation of this color images through modern costume design in film. The aim of this study is to show how early 20th century color has born reinterpreted through present film costumes and how different cultural perspectives can influence color images. For the purposes of this study, 30 pictures of clothing, representative of the early 20th century, as well as films which have been internationally recognized for their costume design and strong cultural identity('Farewell M) 'Concubine', 'Raise the Red Lantern', 'Chicago' and 'The English Patient') were chosen and analyzed. The color image of these photographs and scenes from the movies were divided by Pantone Solid Chips and categorized by color groups such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, neutral and metallic. The analysis results of the color images in the early 20th century showed that the red group was used a lot in both cultures and the orange group was more often used in the West. In regards to the yellow group, goldish yellow were commonly used in the West but pale yellow was preferred in the East. The green group more used In the West but the blue group appears more in the East. Also, there were differences in color combination, texture and technique which demonstrates different cultural color recognition and association. In the case of film color image, present color image was added to past color image. In the West, color was used as a tool for visualizing the state of characters' mind and the mood of movies' story but in the East color image was intended to make the character stand out by changing the value and chroma. By comparing the color image of clothes from the early 20th century and color image from film in the West and the East, it is possible to analyze the cultural symbolic image of color. This study is one of first trials to analyze the cultural differences in rotor images and their symbolic meaning. Thus, further studies should persue to find out the influence of culture on the rotor image in terms of specific quantity and quality.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2010

Fashion needs to be understood as practicality and creative behavior and various movements of paintings act as inspirations of original design for fashion designers. This study seeks to find sources of fashion designs in the works of Mark Rothko who is in the center of color-field abstract. Color-field of Rothko provides infinite inspirations as colors are identically treated as shapes and lighting and textures are all included on top of it. In this study, the purpose is to create color focused artistic fashion design by exploring the possibility of expression with the colors of Rothko as the main motive. The study method is as follows. First, the concept and significance of color-field abstract are researched through documented data. Works of Rothko is divided into three periods according to their characteristics. The background of the formation of color-field abstract of Rothko is understood by analyzing the trends of the works in each period. Second, twenty representative works from 1949 to 1969 are selected and analyzed in formative components of color, shape and textures in order to more accurately understand shape of colors, brilliance, simplicity that appear in the mature color-field abstract of Rothko. Third, preexisting methods of color-field of paintings developed into motives of clothing are studied focusing on the collections from 1997 to 2006. Examples of applications of color-field images in modern fashion designs are analyzed. Fourth, motives are selected based on general characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko and the results of the formative analysis. Clothing is produced that expresses the colors of the paintings of Rothko more effectively. As the results of the study, restrained shapes and textures and various forms of color combinations shown in color-field abstract of Rothko provided deep inspirations on material composition and color planning for fashion design focused on colors. Additionally, needle-punching technique using wool for the production technique enabled relief texture expressions of materials by colors and effective applications of soft and warm atmosphere of color-field abstract of Rothko on clothing. Especially, the ideology of color-field abstract of Rothko of shaping of colors could be expressed and the direction of the development of motives could be presented at the same time by specifically applying color combination method using horizontal division of atypical color-field from the formative characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko.

• 방송공학회논문지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.396-404
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• 2014

의류 검색 분야는 의류의 비정형 특성으로 인해 매우 어려운 분야로 인식 오류 및 연산량을 줄이기 위한 노력이 많이 진행되어 왔으나 이를 위한 학습 및 인식 과정 전체에 대한 구체적인 사례가 없고 일부 관련 기술들은 아직 많은 한계를 보이고 있다. 이에 본 논문에서는 입력된 영상에서 사람 객체를 파악하여 착용한 의상으로부터 색상, 무늬, 질감 등 의상이 가질 수 있는 특성 정보를 분석하여, 이를 분류하고 검색하는 방법에 대한 전 과정을 구체적으로 보였다. 특히, 의류의 패턴 및 무늬 등을 구분하기 위한 비정형 의류 검색을 위한 LBPROT_35 디스크립터를 제안하였다. 이 제안 방식은 영상의 통계적 특징을 분석하는 기존의 LBP_ROT(Local Binary Pattern with ROTation-invariant) 방식에 추가로 원 영상에 크기 변화가 생겨도 검색해 낼 수 있도록 하는 특성이 추가된 것이며, 이를 통해 비정형 의류 검색 시 옷이 회전되어 있거나 스케일에 변화가 있어도 높은 검색율을 얻을 수 있게 되었다. 또한 색 공간을 11개의 구간으로 양자화 하는 방식을 이용하여 컬러 분류를 구현하여, 의류 검색에 있어서 중요한 컬러 유사성을 상실하지 않도록 하였다. 한편, 인터넷 상의 의류 사진들로부터 추출한 총 810장의 트레이닝 이미지로 데이터베이스를 구축하고 이들 중 36장을 질의영상으로 테스트 한 결과, 94.4%의 인식률을 보이는 등 Dense-SIFT 대비 높은 인식률을 보였다.